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junkuser

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Everything posted by junkuser

  1. junkuser
    Not ideal but should behave for quite a while yet. Have seen teeth ground back to half length and still working. Hopefully the teeth on the Bendix are in reasonable condition. Pity the stud pattern prevents the flywheel from being rotated 90 degrees to bring new teeth to bear.
  2. junkuser
    Looking forward to further interesting preparation posts on Team Broom Dirk, for 2016. Mal ( Any chance of talking John Lakeland into joining up and entering for 2016? 🙂)
  3. junkuser
    I agree very much with your approach GT6 1, but the tricky thing is that often poor quality parts are priced and presented as though they best quality and some people on the auction sites are actually honest, sincere people who know what they are doing. This makes picking quality not so straight forward. Probably the best guide is to ask on here for opinions prior to purchase of items as there will be people with experience in your part of the World, with any luck. Looking forward to reports on your progress. Mal.
  4. junkuser
    P.S.  My reason for going to double lip seal was that the two seals I tried, that were supposed to be to original specification,  would not seal satisfactorily on a perfectly undamaged pulley. Double lip overcame the problem. (Put grease between the lips {of the seal of course} when fitting or the outer one is likely to run dry)
  5. junkuser
    I think herald948 is only suggesting to find and use the best quality replacement parts of original design you can find. i.e. Avoid going for the "cheapest" if possible, as that can turn out to be more expensive as you have to replace them and the frustration of failures will put you off Triumphs unfairly.
  6. junkuser
    If there is damage on the part of the pulley body where the oils seal has been running, using a seal of a different design, preferably one with two sealing lips, will result in the lips running on an undamaged part. I don't have the part number of the double-lip seal I used but another member followed this advise recently, so a search may find the relevant posts. With the tensioner wear you describe it would be wise to check the sprockets and replace the chain as well.
  7. junkuser
    I can see you in this Dirk
  8. junkuser
    Great to see you made it Dirk. All that effort paid off. Congratulations, Mal.
  9. junkuser
    Thank you Russell. Pity the Moss has pulled out. It added variety to the range. Would have been nice to see it finish. Hope the Renown shows it stuff.
  10. junkuser
    Thanks for posting progress report VR, looking forward to updates. Where is there a list of numbers attached to the names or usernames of the crew members so distant followers, like myself, can identify how particular blokes are doing? Very interested in how Saltddirk is going after his marathon effort to get there. Mal.
  11. junkuser
    Ah, clashing or grinding into second is common in these boxes as they age. Can be overcome by increasing the loading of the balls in the synchomesh hub to compensate for the wear on the gripping surface of the cone and the slight rounding of the edges the balls climb over during engagement. Best to replace the balls as they can develop flats (they skid rather than roll) and check that the springs are in good condition. The specifications for the force required to cause the hub to move are in the workshop manual but these are not easy to check. In practice, 8 Thou of shim under each spring will improve or even solve the synchromeshing problem without noticeable increased effort required to change gears. The shims are 1/4" Dia. and a paper punch will handle 4 Thou steel shim, so this mod is able to be done at home.
  12. junkuser
    Maybe I misinterpreted what was happening. As there was no mention of grating, I assumed that the gear could not be moved into the engaged position which can be due to the synchro teeth losing their points and so they just sit on the mating teeth in the hub, rather that pushing the teeth into alignment so they can engage with the gear. Maybe Stu could clarify.
  13. junkuser
    You'll get there.  Enjoy!
  14. junkuser
    The gear problem could be that the tips of the synchromesh cone teeth may be rounded off which causes the cones not to be pushed in line with the hub teeth when the gearbox is spinning.
  15. junkuser
    The height would not make any significant difference in this situation Didier. The rate of oil flow from the pipe to the gauge would be related to the pressure but also to the pipe diameter. Direct reading oil pressure gauges have a restriction (a very small hole) before the oil enters the gauge to smooth out any sudden changes, so the tube to the gauge can have a very small bore.
  16. junkuser
    If the clearance problem with the tyres is only on the one side of each tyre, check that the off-set of the wheels correct for the Herald. Faulty shock absorbers will not cause tyre clearance problems Stu.
  17. junkuser
    Could it be that the gauge is working correctly and it is the pressure of the oil that is slow to rise Didier? Air in the system will give irregular readings of pressure if it is entering at the pump.
  18. junkuser
    The valves in the pump don't seal that well Alec.  Usually rigid flat disks on pressed brass seats with a light spring.
  19. junkuser
    Just drain back, as you suggested, will delay pump sending fuel to the bowls but with Stromberg CD series with the bottom adjustable jets, any weeping past the "O" rings will lead to lowering of the fuel level in the bowls and further delay starting. If your mechanical pump has a priming lever, use that before starting if the car has not been used for a while. Unlikely that the spring will weaken significantly, but measuring the pressure the pump is putting out will tell if the spring is intact and strong enough.
  20. junkuser
    " I am looking for rims that are wider out, that is so the tires would "go out from the car." Not sure what that is going to do to the steering geometry but it will increase steering reaction. Have you looked into the effects of moving the front wheel centres out?
  21. junkuser
    :)
  22. junkuser
    Best of luck.
  23. junkuser
    Try loosening the clamp on the steering column and moving to wheel up a few mm. Re-tighten the clamp.
  24. junkuser
    "only my opinion of course" Mine as well, for what its worth.
  25. junkuser
    There must be a cause for the sticking Mike. Just a matter of finding it and correcting. Could be as simple as the linkage between the two being too rigid, not allowing for any mis-allignment. A lever on the linkage with a return spring would help. Not sure what the original set-up was with that model of CD. The CDS was often set up to use only one "enrichment device" of the two carburetors so may be you could just try detaching the linkage, and locking  the disconnected choke bar.  
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