junkuser
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Everything posted by junkuser
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Can't tell from the pictures if the chrome is through. Recoverable if not but not if it is. You're making great progress, congrats.
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"also car came with seperate oil gauge connected to sump plug" That sounds like an oil temperature sensor. Possibly a home creation if the gauge it is connected to is a pressure gauge rather than a temperature one as electrical gauges can be used for other purposes with a little lateral thinking. They only measure current flow or voltage drop. Just seems a funny place to pick up an "earth" if that's all it was.
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That is probably within the normal range of play. There is clearance between teeth of crown-wheel and pinion teeth ("backlash"), the differential teeth (sun-wheel and planetary gears) and the output shaft splines. which could well account for the amount of rotation you have found. This is just for diffs in general, someone may have actual information on your particular diff
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A hammer finish type coating would disguise the pitting. Should be available in spray cans in various colours.
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You could by-pass the problem causing the slow flashing by fitting an electronic flasher unit. The flash rate with these is not load sensitive.
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An old trick for squeal was to cut little grooves at an angle across the surface of the pads at an angle. It is treating the symptom rather than the cause but may reduce the noise. May be worth a try Wim.
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Could be resistance in the circuit due to a connection problem, either power or frame ("earth") side, as it sounds as though your flasher unit is of the current dependent type, as originally used.
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"I saw a pool of fuel across the bridge" Fuel level this high will definitely cause rich running at idle.
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Would be worth getting the float level correct first. You could cut washers from fibre type gasket material and just experiment to get correct setting. Soft aluminium would be suitable, just more difficult to work with and you would be lucky to get the correct thickness.
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As John said, pressure is only an indicator that there is sufficient volume being pumped to cope with the rate of loss through bearings etc. It does not aid to lubrication, just an indication that oil is probably getting to all the places it is required. The viscosity ("Internal resistance to flow") of the oil will effect the rate at which it can pass through bearing clearances. Lower viscosity will allow increased flow, both through the system and back past the pump gears, which will show as decreased pressure, indicating the volume of flow is insufficient to cope with the rate of these losses. Increased flow will aid in heat transfer, cooling the hot bits and warming the colder parts. The lubrication depends on the characteristics of the oil, one of which is the viscosity. Just as an aside and not all that relevant to the present discussion, Ford decided to increase the relief valve pressure in their V8s in the late 1940s. They increased it from 30psi to 100psi. The oil of the day apparently did not handle this so bearing wear increased. Setting was changed back to 30.
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Could save drowning the ignition, shorting out coil. Sad experience.
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Check that the valves are behaving correctly prior to removing the head. Grasping at straws, but there are some possibilities.
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Gunk in the bore. Push piston in and clean as well as you can. Detergent and water with fine wet and dry (600) on a finger. Tap cylinder, with progressive force, on a piece of softwood, in the direction you wish the piston to move. Can take time and considerable force. Hit down squarely to minimise chance of damaging end of cylinder. When piston level with end of the cylinder, gentle tapping on the edge of the cylinder or the reservoir should get the piston out far enough to grip to to complete the removal. Be patient!
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http://www.alpha-bid.com/media/Shared-Pics/OBD2_protocols.pdf May be helpful in choosing a reader. Was linked to this site http://www.alpha-bid.com/HowToChooseACodeReader.html Not too sure about the accuracy of this site on looking into it.
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Back the measuring idea. Simple enough to do through the starter mounting hole. I don't think the oil feed to the rocker gear is necessary, but from what has been written on the subject, it seems that if a restricter has been fitted in the oil passage some feel they are OK. Expect further posts on this.
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Installation of electric fuel pump on 2000 Mk1
junkuser replied to Jonny-Jimbo's topic in Electrical
"I second Chris' views on the Hulco v the Facet solid state. I had the Facet, but the tapping drove me nuts so fitted a Hulco instead. Silent..." That would have been the little cube shaped one, not the interrupter. -
Team Broom preparation
junkuser replied to Saltddirk's topic in Round Britain Reliability Run (RBRR)
Great work D. Looking forward to reports on how it all goes. Enjoy -
Installation of electric fuel pump on 2000 Mk1
junkuser replied to Jonny-Jimbo's topic in Electrical
The interrupter, from the writeup, could be mounted where you suggest but the other one has to be mounter low. The little solid state ones, I think, are a free piston design. They run continuously and are noisy from my experience, though the one I have is a very early one which was marketed as a transfer pump. -
A simple thing to check first in relation to the water level is the radiator cap. Correct double seal type required for water recovery, in good condition and correct reach for that radiator.
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That is a neat load equalising bar you have Martin.
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OK to use the different types of valve. Not unknown for new parts not to function correctly. Make sure that there is no debris coming from the fuel line to interfere with sealing of the valves. New filter between pump and carburetors connected with new hose should rule out any material getting through. As the overflow has now stopped it would seem the pressure is satisfactory so pressure controller can be held in abeyance for now. Saves adding another item that can cause problems and they can. Measuring the output pressure of the pump to make sure it is within recommended range would be worthwhile. A variable with the valves is the diameter of the bore in the seat. The larger the bore the greater the area available for fuel pressure on the needle to unseat it. Ball type, soft nose and plain brass tips can all work satisfactorily and all can fail. Any can be faulty out of the box.
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Needle valve not sealing. Clean, inspect, replace.
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Wonder how many other owners are driving around with this sort of problem. Not easy to check unless dismantled and not noticed till noises draw attention (if noise can be heard over loud radios or other sound equipment). Pretty poor design having the rollers running directly on the drive shaft but, whilst I have seen deep grooving of the drive shafts, have not heard of any breaking. Has anyone else?
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Looks like grit damage to the pump. Requires replacing. Any gritty stuff in the sump?
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Very neat