junkuser
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Everything posted by junkuser
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Aren't the pistons and covers supposed to be used in matched sets?
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So pretty easy to get a Herald to look OK byakk0. And people wonder why replacement panels or ones from donor cars don't look quite right. Thanks for putting it up, Mal.
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Visited the assembly line for Morris Minors in Sydney and was impressed by the big blokes whose job it was to twist the doors, once on the car, to get the correct close. Just grabbed the doors and twisted them! Don't know if it was the doors or the bodies that varied in shape, just surprised me that either varied in a mass produced car.
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The old wheel balancers that spin the wheel on the car were good for locating imbalance in everything that rotates. Had a new Capri back in 1971 with front end shake. Returned several times and each time was told the wheel balance was OK. (They used an off-car balancer) Found a place with an on-car balancer who dug deeper and discovered the brake rotors were out of balance. Replacements solved the problem. The suggestion that the wheel centres may be the problem is worth investigating but not easy. Really requires setting up on a lathe and measuring/boring. (Did this on the standard Spitfire wheels as tyre fitters insist on balancing on their off car balancers, "centering" the wheel with a cone. Had access to a large lathe a few years back so decided to turn out the centres to save the hassle of re-balancing with my on-car machine. Mounted them on a modified Herald hub in this case so they were nut-centric.)
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With 20 odd pounds per square inch of pressure holding the tube against the tyre, it is difficult to imagine there would be any movement, but with butyl tubes there could be a problem as these tubes will fatigue fracture when held bent sharply as could occur over the ridges on the inside of tubeless tyres. Natural rubber tubes do not have this problem so you should have no problems Mark.
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Could well be be a plate problem. Contamination by oil will give judder but another one I have encountered more than once is wear around the damper springs and plate centre, causing the friction surfaces to run off centre. Always use best quality driven plates if replacing.
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That's a very handy modification to the tunnel Nick. Both of the old Spits I started with had the cover cut there, makes engine/gearbox removal simpler, not having to remove the whole cover and H frame. Gives access to several other things on the standard set-up also. Great to see how the car is progressing.
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As you suggest, sounds like a needle valve problem. Taking off the top cover will not disturb the settings of the carburetor and will reveal the valve and probably dirt in the bowl. Can remove needle, blow out any muck in the jet and replace, which MAY sort the problem, so worth a try, but there is a good argument for fitting a new needle and valve set. The latter would require checking that the new set resulted in the correct fuel level so a reference on how to becomes necessary. Best have a filter between the pump and carburetors also.
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I wonder if there is a suitable dye that world work satisfactorily on the particular carpet?
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Nicks suggestion, "Cylinder head studs work too." would be worth looking into length wise.
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" I then backed off 180 degrees but this still felt "hard" when turning in one direction, so i span them round again and this seemed much better." Worth checking that the threaded section of the vertical link is not bent, any thread damage or foreign material present.
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Having an actual defect in the surface almost suggests the head has been welded at some time. Worth getting someone who knows what he is doing look at it in the flesh.
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Brazing a nut (I used 1/4" UNF) on the cap, then tapping through, will make future removal easier. Fitting a short machine screw when not pulling will keep muck out.
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With pictures, there will be someone on here who can identify what you have.
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6 thou ain't much, maybe recheck your measurements, with fingers crossed that your original ones may not be this accurate. (Hopefully not the wrong way.) May as well grasp at straws! Not much chance if you measured the play with a dial gauge but there is if you used a feeler.
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For the ball-joint, use a plain nut to pull it in and seat. Then fit the correct nut.
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Team Broom preparation
junkuser replied to Saltddirk's topic in Round Britain Reliability Run (RBRR)
Very entertaining thread and you succeeded! -
Originals most likely chrome plated steel, well they were on early Spits. I purchased some new ones 10 years or so ago and the chrome was bubbled an a few, so examine thoroughly if you get this type. The supplier did replace them. (Sportscar Spares, Sydney, NSW - a good supplier of parts.) Stainless sounds a good idea, as long as the correct stainless (Hard enough) is used and the manufacturing is to a good standard. No experience with these.
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It does look great. Nice to see a Spit being restored so thoroughly. I like the colour.
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The timing chain drives the cam shaft, so adjusting position on its sprockets sets the valve opening/closing timing in relation to the crankshaft position. Once this is set correctly, the distributor position is set to give the correct ignition timing. With the number one piston almost at the top of its compression stroke, the points should be just about to open and the rotor should be pointing to near where the lead to spark plug one is in the cap.
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Intended use of the car. Where in the World you live. How much mechanical work you may be doing yourself. These are very reliable little cars if EVERYTHING is in original condition mechanically. The original gearbox does not have synchromesh on first but I have not found this to be a problem. With normal driving it is rare that you require to engage 1st gear whilst moving but the all synchro box would be an advantage as the straight cut 1st gears in the early Spitfire boxes I have worked on have all had surface damage on the teeth. Probably related to the way they had been driven as this is not as common in the equivalent Herald boxes. Whilst the original clutch was probably OK, a lot of the replacement parts, now available, are not, so changing to a diaphragm one would be worth considering. (People on here will provide information on what is involved.)
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Those two spades are connected so the same electrical connection. Do not "earth" one.
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The thicker studs would be worthwhile Wim. The wheels are centered by the studs so are subjected to alternating lateral loads if any movement occurs between wheel, spacer surfaces and drum. You are relying on friction between these surfaces to prevent any such movement. Jarring of the wheel over bumps will severely test this friction. Braking loads are heavy but always in the same direction so not a problem on the fronts. The rears do not experience such heavy braking loads but they do have to cope with drive loads as well, so there is a chance of alternating lateral loads from this also. (In a rotational direction) The other problem, aggravated by the spacers and the thickness of the alloy wheels, is that the tensile loading is increased due to the distance of the nut from the drum face if there is any movement. Those little studs have to put up with a lot.
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The pressure is set by the spring in the pump. Measure the pressure of output with a gauge to see if within the range specified for the carburetor/s.
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A bit risky Iggy. Spraying lubricant near the clutch not a good idea.