junkuser
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Everything posted by junkuser
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If you use the hammer method, use a copper hammer or piece of copper between the yoke and a steel hammer. The steel of the yoke outside the circlip groove would be very easy to distort, hence my preference for the vice method, having worked on yokes that have been attacked, injudiciously, with a hammer.
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The only wheels we would not fit tubeless to in the early days were those on old, heavy American imports as the bead could slip off the rim and into the well during tight, low speed, cornering. The rims were relatively narrow for the size of the car and the rims sloped down to the well. (Tyre service in Sydney, Australia)
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"A few were so tight then *popped* into place with a lot of force" That does sound as if the caps were not truly in line at the start of applying the force. The caps are hard enough to take a divot out of the softer yoke. A method of making sure the caps are seated against to circlips is to squeeze the yoke in a vice. There should not be sufficient clearance between the caps and spider for any permanent distortion of the yoke to occur and it should not take much force to seat them. Stop applying force as soon as hard resistance is felt. The tapping method described in the manual may work, but don't be too vigorous with the hammer.
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When tubeless tyres were introduced to the market there were not many, if any, safety rims around.
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Possible to straighten but better to replace if you can access one. Tapping methodically with a piece of wood or hide hammer onto a piece of wood and regularly checking progress by rolling the the top, parallel section on a flat surface. Make sure there are no burrs on the top section though, before rolling.
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My reference to the reason for changing my mounts was to point out that it was not due to failure of the mounts as was the case with the O.P. I realise a 6 would be less likely to move about at idle than a 4 but, from the picture, the design of the 6 mount seems similar to the 4 ones, so was simply suggesting that there may be other mounts that could be adapted for the job and how well the rubber in old mounts lasted. I'm good at confusing people by the way I express myself! The area of rubber to metal bonding on the Zephyr mounts is probably twice that of the Spitfire ones and the loading is less in shear. so a design like this should be suitable for a 6 I feel.
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Agree Bill that the design ain't good Bill and I have modified Zephyr mounts on the Spit, but that was to stop engine movement at idle which was causing rising fuel levels in the bowls. That was with the SUs, bowls rubber mounted and very responsive to resonance. The further the fuel rose, the more the shake, the more the shake, the more the fuel rose and on and on to stall unless the throttle was opened to clear the carburetors. Asked the only Spitfire guru I knew at that time and he said they all do it, so decided to go for the stiffer mounts. The mounts were originals off a 1959 Zephyr. Fitted in about 1977 and still OK. P.S. Sorry, I did not mean to disagree with you John, you posted whilst I was slowly keying. Mal.
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I wonder how long before fitting it was manufactured.
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Home made Nick. Turned out of Zephyr axle with multiple perforations as grease reservoirs. (Spiral grooves would be better, but more difficult) Used steel as had bronze bushes crumble in a Riley 9 tail-shaft (O.E.) in the past and I don't like immobilising failures. Used old spider and caps so couldn't see there was anything to lose and could not see how there could be a catastrophic failure. I also adjust end play in spiders with steel shim under the circlips rather than trying to acquire a range of circlips. Can be done on the car (at least on Spitfire 4) if you have access to hoist or suitable ramp. G clamp across the yoke with a slug to force one cap in and spider across as far as the other cap will allow. Measure cap to clip with a feeler to work out thickness of shimming required.
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Marcus's picture shows very nicely the tendency for needle rollers to run at an angle to the axis of the shaft when used in this application. Attempting to roll a cylindrical object along a surface at an angle causes a degree of skidding. These universal joints run at very little deflection resulting in the wear being concentrated in a narrow band, leading to the grooving seen in the picture. All in all not a very satisfactory design and why my Spitfire now has bushes instead of the needle rollers.
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"I think a non-acid battery is a better choice" Any more info on these Bill?
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I have no connection with the Triumph sedans but have been following this thread. Very impressed with the effort and time Lloyd has and still is, putting in to get these panels made and the help he is getting from other members in the endeavor. Hope more owners realise that, some time in the future, their cars will probably need at least the sill panels so not a large amount of money to outlay against the day. Even if you never use them it would be a good sales point to have them if/when you decide to sell the car. Great effort Lloyd.
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Great picture Mr. Beans.
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Great picture Mr. Beans.
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Second not fitting one. Often they clog up or won't turn. As Iain says, just slip bottom hose off to drain, taking due care if doing so while hot.
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With the wheel off the ground, one hand at top and other at the bottom you should be able to feel slight movement at the bearing alternately forcing in the top and the bottom in line with the stub axle when bearing set correctly. This may require fair force to overcome the tight felt. Too many variables to judge by resistance to spinning at this stage. Just as long as there are no odd noises or uneven sensations as the wheel rotates. Check everything again after some cornering loads have had their effect.
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Sounds as though you may have to make an adapter Tony, to solve your filter availability/cost problem.
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Best not alter the bell housing Nick. Makes more work if you ever have to replace due to damage and not an easy machining job. Agree new carrier to solve part of the problem. Simple machining job. Would suggest the longer fitting on which it slides also to get true support for carrier when up in its working position. Once again, easy machining job after fairly simple fabrication. I actually made one for Datsun to VW box job out of an old hub that was knocking about, so your engineer may have something he can modify to save welding a flange onto a tube. This car is sure keeping you entertained, but soon you'll be reaping the rewards. Mal.
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Nice bit of work Ferny.
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http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/37/Ships_crest_of_HMS_Renown_%28S26%29.jpg/120px-Ships_crest_of_HMS_Renown_%28S26%29.jpg HMS Renown emblem on namesake. http://www.admirals.org.uk/forkids/badges/renownbadge.gif Battleship version.
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My apologies Ivanhoe.
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Wire from ignition switch to + on coil (- if a + "earth" car) and other side to points. Some old coils were marked "Ign" and these were for + "earth" cars so this was the negative side.
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They appear to all be dipped values. I think original lamps were something like 75/50.
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An approach, as used in the Spitfire 4, was to mold a fibreglass shell over the gearbox cover and glue carpet to that. The carpet was just some purchased from a roll. The shell is removable and held in place by screws low down on each side at the rear (screw just visible at the corner of the seat in the pic) and the front edge slips under the H frame. (Sorry about the poor picture quality.) In this case this section stops at the H frame as the rubber from there to the firewall was salvable. The carpet over the raised parts across the floor were glued to light sheet metal, shaped to fit and just sit there, to facilitate access to the mounting bolts if necessary. The rest of the tunnel cover was done in the same way as the front section and held in position by the belt mountings at the back and the carpet on the front end being tucked under the front section.
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No experience with Lucas alternators, apart from having one fail on a brand new V6 Capri within a month, but have overhauled many Bosch and two Denso. Very easy to overhaul, replacing various parts (Usually just brushes and bearings, sometimes the regulator.) and unless the slip rings require attention, cheap as chips. Machining the slip rings requires some skill and access to a lathe to do the job and make a mount for the tailstock to hold the rear bearing. Rarely the slip rings are beyond the point where skimming is not worthwhile. The windings rarely fail and are easy the check with a multimeter. At one stage Bosch moved the slip rings further from the armature body resulting centrifugal force causing the the wire to break free from the first slip ring, turning a very reliable design to one much less so. Re attaching the wire and binding to the shaft with string repaired them. Always amused at the price people pay for refurbished exchange units. Must be good earners. Used to always use overhauled, second-hand Bosch on my own vehicles and never had one fail in in 30+ years. A few years back I was given a 220,000 Klm. old Denso so decided to replace brushes and bearings and try it on the Spitfire as I had heard good reports. They certainly are very well designed and built units and I'd have no hesitation recommending them for anyone not worried about originality.