junkuser
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Everything posted by junkuser
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Sounds more like a wiring problem. Make sure all connections are correct.
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One model of Toranas down here was fitted with an electric as well as the engine mounted fan as standard if an air conditioner was fitted prior to delivery. Probably cheaper than fitting a larger radiator, particularly if there was an oil cooler in the radiator for automatic transmission, as air conditioners were an option on these cars back then, .
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The ring gear (the gear on the flywheel that the one on the starter engages) may also be a bit chewed but I would have expected that, if the Bendix is moving freely, there would have been a bit of a rattle when starter spun. May be the starter did not spin fast enough to throw the Bendix - low battery voltage. The Bendix gear needs replacing but be aware there are different two methods used to retain the Bendix on the shaft. Early used a nut and later, a retaining ring and circlip as yours appears to be. Replacement Bendix, second hand motor or re-conditioned motor, depends on availability a costs.
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Check with a bearing specialist whether there are seals available with same ID and OD but different lip design. I went through this exercise in 1997 having previously fitted two listed as correct for the Spitfire which did not seal. Found one of a different, double lip seal design, that is still not seeping. Would also be worth checking if silicone seals are available in the size you want as these seal better.
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Check with a bearing specialist whether there are seals available with same ID and OD but different lip design. I went through this exercise in 1997 having previously fitted two listed as correct for the Spitfire which did not seal. Found one of a different, double lip seal design, that is still not seeping. Would also be worth checking if silicone seals are available in the size you want as these seal better.
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I was being serious John. What will the car do if cruise control set and driver falls asleep? I'm always happy to learn, Mal.
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Agree Paul, but people do fall asleep whilst driving so figured it was a possibility. Just being cautious. Did fit a cruise control to one car I used for long trips because it had a very uncomfortable position for your right (accelerator) foot. Was nice to be able to move about a bit. Never used the cruise control at night or when tired.
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I fitted an hydraulic brake light switch into the hydraulic line for the clutch in my VW Transporter (Bluebird engine with hydraulic clutch) for the same reason Nick, but decided not to fit the cruise control as I was worried what may happen if I went to sleep with it set on the open road.
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What a job! Hat's off to you, Mal.
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Input 3.63 to get BOTH outputs turning one revolution Wim. If only one output turns, then the output that turns will will turn twice as far.
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"Now I still have the problem with the clutch and having to push it through the floor....mmm what size ??" From this I interpreted that you were running out of travel to get the clutch disengaged, which is difficult to understand with the large master, unless the slave is also very much oversize. Maybe the other possible problems I mentioned are present. Identifying the calipers and posting would also be helpful in regard to the brakes. I'm no authority on caliper types, but many on the forum are. As you have spare 5/8" masters, my approach would be to fit them and see how the brakes feel as a guide to what changes you want. Keep at it, Mal.
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A possible solution, depending on the cylinder sizes. The reference to LHD would be for car model identification rather than not suitable for RHD. You may gather I am not keen on boosted brakes. http://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/parts.aspx?searchtext=213689 (Thanks to Wimpus on Spitfire section)
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"After consulting a brake and clutch shop they think the way the brakes are set up it would be correct with the larger bore for the front discs." Would be interesting to know his reasoning. Was the master size fitted specified for the calipers that you have?
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Have just read back through all 21 of your posts Rob and realise you have actually posted quite a bit of information about the car. Sorry for going over the same areas. Still would be a good idea to put the relevant information in this thread to avoid mugs like me going back over old territory, having not put all the information from the various areas together. Mal.
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Not surprised a lot of brake pedal pressure was required with a 3/4" master. Whoever did these modifications may have been a bit muddled in his thinking regarding hydraulics, thinking a larger master would give more pressure. Original clutch master would have been 5/8" also. Seems like the time has come to check everything in the clutch and braking systems against original specifications for the car. What model Herald is it? The specifications varied over the years and I, like Bill was taking it to be a front drum model. Bill's the Herald Guru, so is the man to turn to for guidance. Providing all the information on the commissioning/compliance plate would be helpful as would pictures of the car from various angles to help Bill pick any other modifications that may have been made. Not unknown for different body panels to have been blended together. You will enjoy this car when sorted. Agree the Ford pickup would brake better with hydraulics instead of rods. Mal.
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I have had no experience with Heralds but from what I have seen on this forum the brakes don't seem to be a particular problem if everything is in good condition and set-up correctly as per the workshop manual. Certainly people do change the system in various ways, such as fitting discs and boosters, but many owners seem quite happy with the brake performance for normal road use, even younger blokes. The main thing is to have everything in good condition and each detail in the genuine workshop manual followed. I hope you enjoy the Herald, Mal. P.S. 35 is fairly early for those hydraulic brakes isn't it. What make of Pickup? They sure beat Ford off the mark.
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The pedal ratio is quite adequate with the original set-up. This is '40s design and we oldies are quite comfortable with it, especially coming off '20s and '30s designs. Your wife may well not be as she is probably used to power assist. (that took some time for we oldies to get used to and I still don't like it, full fade before the feel changes, oops, too late!) Would be surprised if the masters are not 5/8" as Bill said. Not sure what the clutch problem is. The original ratio give more than adequate travel in the '62 Spit and I imagine this is the same for your Herald. Stand to be corrected. The ratio is so adequate in original for that I bored out the slave to give a softer pedal and there is still plenty of travel. Probably wear in the hole in the top of the pedal arm (if the return spring on the pedal is present), master not filling fully, pivot pin in yoke loose, slave not positioned correctly, adjuster on yoke not set correctly (if you have one off and early Herald. May sound an odd one but have one on my Spit, just fitted to see what they had in mind and have never taken it off. You never know what you may find on cars that have been through several fiddler's hands.) and lots more. Mal.
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What you have there is a duel circuit braking system rather than a balancer. If one circuit fails the yoke shaped piece would be restricted in its movement by the shape. Could be replaced by a normal dual circuit system. With that system the brake pedal would be heavier as you effectively have twice the piston area of a single master cylinder acting on the same total slave area as one had been. There would be a different amount of fluid going into the front and rear slaves so not likely that the rod movement would be the same. This is assuming the masters and slaves are of original sizes. You could get away with smaller diameter masters but unlikely to find any suitable. Power assist would be a way of overcoming the pedal pressure problem if this is acceptable. Would best be on both circuits but may be OK on front only and of low gain. A mechanical solution may be better to apply more force to the "balancer" but this would put more load on it and you are getting into danger territory with major modifications to the braking system and the "balancer" may not be strong enough. Pity the pedal pressure is too high as the basic design is sound for making a dual circuit, if well made.
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The manual Steve has on his website, courtesy of Sydney City Library, would be a very good guide to sorting the Stromberg CD series of carburetors. Well at least the 1970 version I have is. The CDs is a very reliable unit if set up correctly with the correct parts and will remain in tune. As long as the instructions in the book are strictly followed when overhauling, using new aluminium washers and the correct "O" rings (they are not the same as come in the usual boxes of "O" rings) you will have no problems.
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Thanks Marcus, Mal.
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Could low oil level cause this?
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The confusing thing is Ted that some products are made for lubricating seals and at least one was called "grease" so could be loosely referred to as "brake grease". e.g. PBR , the brake section of REPCO in Australia, made "PBR RUBBER GREASE" for assembling internal brake parts. This is not a "grease" in the normal use of the word and is in fact completely water soluble on testing, so probably just dissolves in brake fluid. The tube I have is pre-silicone so not sure if it can be used with silicone fluids or if this product is still available, but maybe there are similar products still available. I have heard this product referred to as "brake grease" by mechanics. Mal.
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"Didn't realise it should just fall out" They can be very obstinate actually Paul. You may actually come to the decision that it would be better to just purchase new or re-conditioned master cylinders, but best of luck. Mal.
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I think that is the piston you are seeing Paul. Try tapping the open end of the cylinder with a piece of wood or on a piece of wood. If no luck then you could try some fine wet and dry on a finger to clean the bore a bit as the gunk on it could be preventing the piston from slipping out. Boiling the whole unit in water with a bit of detergent also worth a try and doing the tapping trick again whilst still hot as the aluminium expands more than the steel piston.
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There have been some very good posts on repairing that section in the Spitfire/GT6 section which would be worth looking at Dave.