junkuser
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Everything posted by junkuser
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I am in Ted's camp regarding doing repairs oneself. After working in a fairly large motor mechanics shop as a teenager and seeing what went on, reenforced by also seeing a new Ford being returned to a relation after its first service at Sydney's main Ford dealer with no oil in the sump (not even the plug) with the expected results, I decided not to let anyone touch any car I may ever own. Figured if I caused a problem, that was my fault, but can be very frustrating trying to get a fault rectified by someone else if they have caused the problem. I get no satisfaction from doing standard mechanical repairs, replacing failed parts with bits of the same design, and have always had skin problems with oils, but I still believe I made the correct decision. (Attempting to improve the design of parts and making them is a different matter. Can be very satisfying.) Have never regretted this decision having seen so many more problems caused by people in business who purport to be competent over the years since then.
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Bringing to red heat allowing to cool is sufficient for copper as it will only be work hardened, if hard, so it is just stress relief that is required. Rate of cooling is not critical for copper annealing.
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Coming along nicely Nick. Pity you have to work and lose time on the car. Mal.
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The machining company has to bring the engine to a higher standard than minimal functional, to prevent complaints. There is no mention of boring so there is a good chance that the crankshaft may still be good enough to just get away with bearings. May be worth considering just minimal work required to get it functioning at this stage to give you time to save some money and find a replacement engine if required. Replacing bearings and rings is something you or a mate can do. Possibly someone on her would like to give a hand. Depends on where you live. (Looks like Nick and I were keying at the same time. Alternatives, but similar)
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An advantage of having discs all 'round is having matching fade characteristics front and back, which could well be an advantage on a "Spitfire with 200bhp or so". (Rather sounds as though it may not be driven too gently)
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A characteristic of the sound due to camshaft end play I forgot to mention Spiti1976, is that it can be rather irregular and can come and go. Not regular like a bearing. Actually it was this feature that made me think it must be end play in a shaft and get me looking. Have never seen any references to this being a source of engine noise, but I suspect there must be somewhere.
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Thanks Nick. Just a chance. Mal.
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The camshaft is pushed longitudinally by the loading of the oil pump transmitted via the gear on the camshaft that drives it.
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Camshaft end-float can cause a knocking sound in that area but usually only heard at idle with warm oil. Can be overcome by shimming on non-load side of flange if this happens to be the cause. Can be quite a heavy knocking sound.
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Doesn't sound like they were fit for purpose if they have settled that far, no matter how old they are.
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"Premier inn Enfield this morning " Does the GT6 have a body odour problem?
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Pretty little Standard ute. Don't think we had them in Australia.
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Sounds more like a loose connection in the ignition circuit or contact problems in the ignition switch.
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A1 Beans.
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"The battery voltage meter on the dash isn't showing any life if that is significant?" Would suggest that there is no power in the ignition circuit. Time to look for why.
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If the components are to original specifications you should be able to get 100% with even a little to spare on the Bendix gear without clearance problems in the dis-engaged position Mark. This will give more even loading and wear on the teeth. Mal.
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Its a matter of judgement as to the possible problems that the findings on the MRI could cause against the possible problems that more extensive surgery to remove the fragments could cause at the time Roger. ('Tis a pity humans can't be fully dismantled to inspect componentry and re-assembled like our cars.)
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One spring does sit loosely. Comes into action with further advance. Possibly that is what you are seeing Jim.
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You can either blue the Bendix gear and use the starter or measure the distance of the ring gear from the face where the starter mounts and the equivalent on the starter with the Bendix in the fully extended position (and the retracted position for clearance) and calculate.
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Nice that you had Grandpa's radio fixed Nick. Appreciate your sentiments.
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Nice to hear Didier.
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" In terms of pushing pinion in and out its difficult to say " Lateral play in pinion is what you look for. The minutest movement means the the bearings are too loose or worn. With a shim adjusted pinion bearing set-up it is safe to re-torque the pinion nut as a first step (even if you cannot detect any movement). You have to hold the flange whilst tightening the nut. Two bits of metal about 18" long bolted loosely together at one end and holes in the other ends for bolting firmly to the flange will give a good handle to torque against.
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"the ceramic bit was lighting up. Not sure whether that is normal though " Not normal with normal plugs, but these days I would not be surprised to find plugs are available with LEDs on them Raider :) That "lighting up" is surface tracking in muck on the surface of the ceramic. Simply cleaning will usually overcome. Wise to check the plug gaps as if they are too large the resistance is increased and so the HT may find a lower resistance route to follow. (either surface tracking or arcing.) Tracking can also occur on the inner surface of the distributor cap so a good idea to clean that also.
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"But when the engine stops, flywheel and starter pinion are randomly orientated." Not with a single plane crank John. Look at any used flywheel from a normal 4 and you will see tooth damage is in two areas, 180 apart. Possibly gfiandy could confirm that this is the case with his.
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Have you tried trackerjack's suggestion of having a look for errant sparks in the dark? Will see any surface tracking of HT. A no-cost, simple test.