junkuser
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Everything posted by junkuser
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Fit a volt meter as ammeter bypassed, which would not have handled the output of an alternator in any case and high current through its wiring potentially dangerous. Actually the ammeter is not completely bypassed but would be connected via a shunt so may show some movement. Assuming the car is negative "earth" you can just use its +ve feed to the +ve of a voltmeter and the -ve of the voltmeter to frame and best isolate the other ammeter connection, for the sake of tidiness as it is only connected to the harness -ve. Disconnected wires can cause confusion during future fault-finding so handy to label it as it could be useful as an "earth" connection if one is required in the future. E&OE.
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A further thought. There could be shims stuck in the bottoms of the drillings for the springs from previous attempts to adjust the loadings with home made ones. Correctly made shims can stick in there but will normally flush out with a squirt of de-greaser. Scratching around with a scribe will give a clue as a shim will be softer than the metal of the hub.
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The force required to push the outer of the hub along the inner is listed in the factory workshop manual for early Spit and Herald if this is a 3 rail box. Don't know if this is the box you are working on but probably there is information on later boxes available if not. Could be the same. Measuring the force is difficult without appropriate equipment but I found an old, beam type, parcel scale did the job.
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Yep Josh, I would have used the same approach as you in your circumstances. The reason for my comment is that, not knowing you or your abilities, it was difficult to tell from the post whether or not you regarded this as a permanent solution. I now realise it was a "see how the whole set-up goes and keep an eye on things" approach. Sorry. Certainly not the first time I have found myself in this position when I have felt the poster may be helped by a warning in case he/she has not thought of the possibility and gets into trouble. Keep up the good work, Mal.
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"My axles seem to be a pretty rare kind (off a 180b I think), where the UJ yoke splines directly into the diff. Most Datsun axles seem to have a bolt on stub axle- these could allow me to have a spacer made up to get the length I needed." If the more common type of yoke will fit the spider you are using, would it not be better to swap this part only, so a spacer could be used? May be able to sell the one you have if they are rare. Or am I am missing something? Reducing the loading area and length of contact in the spline not ideal the way I think of things, but could be got away with. Not sure how long before things get out of alignment and vibrations start though. Mal.
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I can picture myself, leaning on that tyre, planning ahead, drooling or just dreaming of things to come.
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Yep Rob, wrong wording used, sorry. Would have been more accurate to say "an output from the alternator", but still rather clumsy. My only excuse is that having repaired alternators and modified regulators for many years I was thinking voltages rather than terminal naming. For anyone I have confused. The feed to the lamp is from D+, which is the voltage generated in the stator windings of the alternator. This is used by the regulator to to adjust the voltage in the rotor/field windings via the DF connection on the alternator to regulate the output voltage of the alternator as Rob said. DF output is the AC output of the alternator rectified to DC via the exciter diodes to feed regulator and lamp. Mal.
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"saturday afternoon I realized (in the sunlight it was not easy to spot) that the ignition warning light was always on" Was it just glowing or as bright as it shows when you turn the ignition on before starting the engine? The lamp is between the battery voltage and the output voltage of the alternator so resistance difference in the in the wiring from each supply can cause the lamp to glow. Very common, pretty much the rule rather than the exception. Your description would fit the picture IF the lamp is only glowing.
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Yes, the filaments are independent from each other, but usually a filament will go brighter for a short time prior to failure. Swap the other lamp across to see what happens but it sounds like a faulty connection somewhere.
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Earlier cars had metal flexible links so worth looking into Ken. Probably a carburetor specialist would have an alternative if none of the above available. Mal.
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Are you sure the breather for the diff is not blocked, causing pressurising when hot? This can sure cause impressive leaks.
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Hope you find a suitable job here Nick. Rather nice having you around. Run some travel tours of Australia for overseas visitors! Fingers crossed, Mal.
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Have seen this happen before Nick with poly bushes, related to time rather than loadings. Maybe Bill rarebits could could explain why with his experience in the use of poly. Were they Superflex, as I've not heard of it occurring with that brand but would be interested if it does?
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Maybe "earth" the SOCKET on the car to its frame and the PLUG on the trailer to its frame. i.e. both the socket and the plug best have a sound connection to the metal frames of each vehicle to which they are attached to complete the circuits satisfactorily. (I wonder if this will just cause further confusion?)
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It was the method of location, that is lacking on the new version, I was trying to point out Nick, rather than actually using them. Even if only one of the new type was modified to have a dowel the slip would be overcome. A smaller diameter hole that went right through the mount would enable marking of the tube for the positioning of the hole to receive the dowel. Dowel would be stepped to control the depth the dowel entered the tube and its length would control the amount in the clamp. Should not be very difficult to do. Drill the small hole, position the clamp, mark the tube, drill the hole in the clamp, using the small drilling as the pilot, to the appropriate diameter and depth, drill the tube, make the dowel to match the drillings. Making sure the clamp is homing on tube rather than itself, as has been posted, must be done. Mal.
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The early Heralds had solid aluminium mounts (Part No. 122553) but they had a dowel that went into a hole in the rack tube to locate them. (Triumph Herald spare parts catalogue second edition. "Triumph Motor Co (1945) limited")
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It would also cause air (and contamination) to be drawn down the dip stick tube, or anywhere else it can find, resulting in the change in revs.
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Only one output flange rotating.
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Early Fiat 500s from the 1930s/40s had two fuses for the lights. One for left front and right rear and one for the right front and left rear. At least better than many later cars. The early Holdens had no fuses at all from what I have read.
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The colour coordination is rather nice.
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May help explain Hazen.
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For those who have followed Marcus's engine re-build, an up-date on how it went. He achieved a great result at Bo'ness Hill Climb with no problems, due to the care and quality of the re-build plus his driving skills. A great effort!
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Right clicking on picture and left clicking on "view image" turns it up the right way on this old computer. Has worked on all the inverted pictures posted so far.
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http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/rearaxle/ra302c.htm
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Simple test lamp didn't get a mention.