don cook1
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Everything posted by don cook1
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Thought I'd bring this thread back to life as I have just carried this out. You need standard size thrust washers to find out the 'true' end float and then replace with oversize as required. They're oversize from standard not from worn ones. I ended up using one standard and one +5 from Moss.
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Thought I'd bring this thread back to life as I have just carried this out. You need standard size thrust washers to find out the 'true' end float and then replace with oversize as required. They're oversize from standard not from worn ones. I ended up using one standard and one +5 from Moss.
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RBR media coverage,2014
don cook1 replied to Velocita Rosso's topic in Round Britain Reliability Run (RBRR)
"Is there something wrong with being totally mad ?" As Nevil Shute said "round the bend might be the best place to be" -
My running on was due to the head needing a good de-coke.
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Make sure you tell the supplier what distributor you have, many GT6s changed to the Vitesse's Lucas...as is mine.
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When I was working at Fords...on the line in the body-shop we made final adjustments to doors/tailgates/bonnets with a very large rubber hammer!
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Keep an eye on ebay for a pair and get an overhaul kit. Burlen or Andrew Turner should be able to provide everything you need http://www.su-carbs.co.uk/
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I took out the long nipples and put back a cut down screw with a cut across the top for a screwdriver.
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Oversize shims are available.
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Oversize shims are available.
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I daresay you could adapt any number of seats but steer away from electric/air bag type as the driver and passenger are often very different to each other. I think the trick is to match the replacement seats with the rear as much as you can. I have MX5 in my GT6 and very comfortable on long runs.
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Cam and followers appear to be fine so I'll leave those. I've ordered the oil pump from Paddock's and will check the tolerances, if its worse than the old one I'll send it back but I hope it will be ok. I have ordered a set of core plugs so will replace those and have a good poke around with some wire to break off any crusty bits...should have done that first I suppose? The head had new inlet guides fitted and the valves refaced and seats recut and skimmed. I was thinking about fitting Pinto guide seals again but wonder if they are really needed. The rockers need a stone going over them, replacing would be better but fast running out of dosh.
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I'll be re-assembling my engine (KE449) pretty soon and am currently assessing what I'll need. I was going to get a new oil pump, pressure relief valve, timing chain kit, and some thrust washers to make up a 40thou gap. The engine is bored to +30 and the crank and big ends -10 (engineers suplied bearings and pistons - they did the head as well). My worry is that there were no washers or tab washers on the crank/conrods, is this usual? Is it recommended to replace the bolts (its first engine strip) and if so; loctite them in? Never did find out the cause for loss of compression on 4&5 pots so I hope the head and bore jobbies put it all to rights?? Some of you may recall on another thread that I have a short input shaft on my type 9 gearbox and there is little evidence from the spigot bearing that it has had anything in it. Nick Jones had kindly furnished me with a long input shaft so I'll be fitting that and hopefully the clutch judder and occasional engine jumping about will be sorted. I'll report back on this subject. Was hoping to sneak a late entry to the RBRR but that's out of the question now.
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Just got this quote today, company is in Suffolk. Seems cheap to me apart from 6 inlet valve guides. Grind crank £100.00 Big end bearing 0.01 £15.08 Main bearings 0.01 £14.89 Bore block £142.50 Pistons 0.02 £122.66 Fit inlet valve guides £11.25 Valve guides £50.40 Face valves £50.40 Cut seats £31.50
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I have a stainless exhaust from the TSSC (Bell, I think) but the centre silencer was almost touching the chassis rails on both sides. As I was in Swindon one day I popped into Bell and they agreed to make me a centre section without the silencer, now fine and sounds a bit more sporty.
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Is No 1 and 2 compression test carried out on the firing stroke or exhaust stroke...well, you never know??
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Current discussion with photos over on the GT6 forum.
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Oh deary me Jens!!!
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I have been driving my daughter's Puma in the last couple of days. That's a fine 1.7 Yamaha (block?) engine there, small and zippy. As I drove it I wondered about it in a Spitfire or even GT6 body. Lots of them about as well. FWD though.
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My GT6 suffers a fair bit from fuel starvation when abroad in extreme heat. I've often thought about insulating the fuel pipes but what I have seen available looks crap. However, I recently saw a 1920s Bentley and was impressed by the fuel lines...until I realised that they were sleeved by 'shower hose'. Now given that these dissipate heat getting out, they must do the same for heat getting in i.e. insulating the fuel from external heat. When I get around to it I'll report back. Now, back to the subject - where can I get a fuel pump blanking plate?
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Is their too much heat from the engine block to mount a Huco to a fuel pump blanking plate? Also where do you take the 12v feed from?
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Or about 190,000 buses!
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SÃ Tim, corregir.
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Came across this the other day, not sure if I have posted it before. High in the Alps we (GT6), and Gingell/Carruthers Vitesse, rounded a corner to find Dave Pearson's Vitesse in dire straights. Behind the photographer (me) is a shear drop of about 1000miles! Dave and passenger were fine and finished the 10CR in a Toledo!