bob dunn Posted July 5, 2009 Share Posted July 5, 2009 the wheels on the back of my 75 spit toe in ,that is to say they angle in at the btm .i am not sure if there is a tube in the cross bolt at the center mount. it is a swing spring driving the car it feels bad on corners. i put the spring on a long time ago so dont remember to well. i do remember the trailing link on the near side went on ok, but the drivers side seemed to short and had to be pulled in with a rope torniky ( dont know how to spell that ).????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 M Posted July 5, 2009 Share Posted July 5, 2009 You got the same drive shafts on each sidet2oooooooo different lengths ye no !!best measure up regards Marcus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob dunn Posted July 7, 2009 Author Share Posted July 7, 2009 all parts are from the original set up but i will check sizes .is there a way to put it together wrong ??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparky_spit Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 No, not wrong exactly, but a previous owner may have changed a halfshaft and used the wrong one. There are short shafts from the earlier cars, and 1 inch longer ones on the latest cars. I could look it up and tell you at what commision number the change happened but it's not important for this discussion yet. Just get under it and measure the halfshafts, say from the UJ yolk to the hub, They should both be the same length; if one is 1" longer (or shorter, depending on how you look at it), then that is what your problem is. Longer shaft cars had different radius arm brackets and different length radius arms to the short shaft cars - look at Canley's online catalogue to see what I mean. You can't mix and match the two types without cocking up the rear geometry. The fact that you said you needed to really to force one side in place points to this being a possibility. You will only tell by measuring them. Let us know how you get on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herald948 Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 sparky_spit wrote:...You will only tell [the difference] by measuring them. Let us know how you get on. Granted, it might not be that uncommon nowadays to see only a replacement axle shaft. On the other hand, it's probably more common to simply obtain a complete assembly (with vertical link, hub, etc.) and bolt said assembly to the car. That being the case, a "long shaft" assembly will have a small bracket to which the flexible brake line bolts; from the other side of that junction, a hard brake line goes to the wheel cylinder. On the earlier "short shaft" assemblies, the flexible brake line went directly to the wheel cylinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob dunn Posted July 8, 2009 Author Share Posted July 8, 2009 found a photo of car before strip down wheels toeing in at the btm but tape measure out next time for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharlieB Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 Btw "toeing in at the bottom" ie the wheels are closer together at the bottom than the top is called positive camber.If the wheels are closer together at the top than the bottom that's negative camber.Toe in means the wheels are closer together at the front than the rear.Toe out means the wheels are closer together at the rear than the front. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob dunn Posted July 8, 2009 Author Share Posted July 8, 2009 spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob dunn Posted July 8, 2009 Author Share Posted July 8, 2009 no tube! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparky_spit Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 That's not going to help. What about the shaft lengths? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob dunn Posted July 8, 2009 Author Share Posted July 8, 2009 maybe i need a bigger spring or just a bigger photo. anyway took the spring of there is no tube on the cross bolt , center distance is 40 3/4 " of the car. drive shafts and drag links are 285 mm plain tube or shaft so they are ok . i dont get it ,when you pull down the 4 studs the center is locked down onto the diff as one big lump so what swings i dont see how it works. ps do i need a new spring.?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharlieB Posted July 9, 2009 Share Posted July 9, 2009 Only the bottom leaf is clamped by the plate, the others are free to rotate around the tube (which you need to find for yours). There should be a rubber pad in the top of the box between the top leaf & the box.When the spring is fixed to the diff but not to the vertical links you should be able to hold it one end & move that end up & down farely easily (ie pivot it about the centre) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob dunn Posted July 9, 2009 Author Share Posted July 9, 2009 refitting the spring on saturday i did not load the ends of the spring before torquing up before does this affect the camber.?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparky_spit Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 Ideally you want to leave the bolts loose (and the radius arm bolts too), lower the car so that wooden blocks or axle stands under the brake drums pre-tension the suspension, and then tighten everything up. If you tightened everything up while it was hanging slack, it may have some influence on the camber but not very much I would have thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob dunn Posted July 10, 2009 Author Share Posted July 10, 2009 i have been advised to fit a 3/4" to the top of the diff to cure the camber prob .?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob dunn Posted July 11, 2009 Author Share Posted July 11, 2009 sorry to be thick what do you leave loose, is it the 4studs and the ends of the spring.?? anyone know were this car is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparky_spit Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 Leave loose the bolts in the ends of the spring, and the bolts in the bushes at the ends of the radius arms. Tighten when the car's weight is on the suspension. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paudman Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 CharlieB wrote:Only the bottom leaf is clamped by the plate, the others are free to rotate around the tube (which you need to find for yours). There should be a rubber pad in the top of the box between the top leaf & the box.When the spring is fixed to the diff but not to the vertical links you should be able to hold it one end & move that end up & down farely easily (ie pivot it about the centre)What would the effect be if the bottom plate WAS NOT clamped by the plate ie the entire spring is between the top and bottom plates? I've just found a Spitfire like that, the plate is below the bottom leaf not above it and the spring is held on by the bolt through the leaves and the four-stud top plate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob dunn Posted July 16, 2009 Author Share Posted July 16, 2009 how long are long drive shafts my drive shafts are 285 long if you measure along the shaft its self between flange and hub. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob dunn Posted July 16, 2009 Author Share Posted July 16, 2009 photo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparky_spit Posted July 16, 2009 Share Posted July 16, 2009 34 wrote:how long are long drive shafts my drive shafts are 285 long if you measure along the shaft its self between flange and hub.Just been out to measure some...Short shafts are 285, long shafts are 310. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted July 16, 2009 Share Posted July 16, 2009 sparky_spit wrote:Just been out to measure some...Short shafts are 285, long shafts are 310.Are you sure about the length of the long shafts - the track of a long shaft car is 1" wider than a short shaft car, so if a short shaft is 285 long, a long shaft would be half an inch longer, not an inch longer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparky_spit Posted July 16, 2009 Share Posted July 16, 2009 KevinR wrote:Are you sure about the length of the long shafts - the track of a long shaft car is 1" wider than a short shaft car, so if a short shaft is 285 long, a long shaft would be half an inch longer, not an inch longer.Yep, I measured both short and long about 30 mins ago with my trusty B&Q tape measure, between the inside edge of the grease flinger/cap type thing next to the hub and the inside edge of the UJ flange - basically the exposed length of the shaft. 285mm and 310mm. 25mm/1" difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparky_spit Posted July 16, 2009 Share Posted July 16, 2009 sparky_spit wrote:Yep, I measured both short and long about 30 mins ago with my trusty B&Q tape measure, between the inside edge of the grease flinger/cap type thing next to the hub and the inside edge of the UJ flange - basically the exposed length of the shaft. 285mm and 310mm. 25mm/1" difference.Just checked in John Thomason's book - Mk4 Spit track is 4ft up to FH50,000 then 4' 2" from FH50,000 onwards, so 1" longer shafts on long shaft cars would be right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob dunn Posted July 16, 2009 Author Share Posted July 16, 2009 did any one modify the vertical links see photo?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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