Front springs (1976 1500 spit)

[molten]

Hello

Re-assembling fron chassis and wondered if I should stick with old springs or get new. Running standard shocks. Is it possible to tell if old springs have 'had-it', or would just buying new standard springs be better idea. Dont want to spend if i dont have to.
Appreciate your thoughts people.

Cheers

[Clive]

Did the car look OK before it was taken apart? if no problems then just use the old ones, if they have "had it" then they would have sagged. Of course that changes if you want "improved" suspension, but sounds like you want to stay standard.

[molten]

cliftyhanger wrote:

Did the car look OK before it was taken apart? if no problems then just use the old ones, if they have "had it" then they would have sagged. Of course that changes if you want "improved" suspension, but sounds like you want to stay standard.

Thanks Cliffhanger for your post
I have put new poly bushes on the front (upto now) and new standard shocks. I am only looking to use the car for normal driving so standard set-up is ok for me. Would new springs improve handling significantly? The car has been off the road since 1992 and dry stored (needing full resto) and i noticed that when removing the shocks/springs the springs appeared to bend under shocker tension (ie shock is almost touching spring at top - same upon re-fit, so I was wondering if this is normal?

Cheers

[Clive]

I have re-used springs, never had a problem (rears a bit different, they seem to suffer more)
If new springs I was referring to harder and lower. They do make the car corner better, but really need improved shocks to "control" them.

As to the "bend" again this seems to be common on original springs. Some do, some don't.

Others may have a different opinion?

[molten]

Hi
Don't think this is a recommended practice, but a few clouts on the spring with a rubber mallet seems to have aligned the spring a lot more central around the damper!!
May well change when under load.
Cheers
Scott

[OCTANE]

At about £40 for a pair of front springs I'd replace them if your doing a full resto and have invested in new dampers and polybushes.  I know what you mean about not spending for the sake of it but if your old springs have the flakey rusty look mine had it will just spoil the look of all your hard work.

Of course this is just my humble opinion :)

[molten]

OCTANE wrote:

At about £40 for a pair of front springs I'd replace them if your doing a full resto and have invested in new dampers and polybushes.  I know what you mean about not spending for the sake of it but if your old springs have the flakey rusty look mine had it will just spoil the look of all your hard work.

Of course this is just my humble opinion :)

Hi Octane
I appreciate all opinions. Its good to see what others think.
My original springs were not to bad paint wise, but they were flaking. I rubbed them down, wire brushed and repainted with blue smoothrite and plan to overcoat with clear coat of what is an alternative to POR15, to protect the softer smoothrite. I have put them back over new standard shocks with complete new front end fasteners. Begining to look good now. Hope to have chassis rolling again by end of year although I am looking for a good used right-hand half shaft to complete.
Many Thanks

[molsmagic]

I've put GT6 front springs on my mk2 which has stiffened the front up a bit without turning it into a roller skate so if your buying new may be an option ?

[Clive]

GT6?? I tried that once and the car looked like it was on stilts. Came off after a chance to settle (which they didn't) and then bought some 330lb ones which sat the car a little lower than standard. The ride actually felt better and mor esupple than the original springs. Last spit used 480lb springs (about 3xharder than std) and still felt comfortable, but better "controlled" Had adjustable shocks though.

[mikeyb]

2597 wrote:

My original springs were not to bad paint wise, but they were flaking. I rubbed them down, wire brushed and repainted with blue smoothrite and plan to overcoat with clear coat of what is an alternative to POR15, to protect the softer smoothrite.

Best option you have done I think!

If you were thinking of investing in new springs just to look pretty, then my advice is not to bother as the paint on new springs nowadays does not seem to last 5 minutes!

[Paudman]

If they're still good a wirebrushing and repaint can work wonders - these started off in the same condition as the one on the left...

[molten]

Hello
Paudman, thats just how my springs look on new shocks. Spring compressors chipped some of the soft smoothrite off but touching up and coating with clear POR15, they should be fine.
Chassis is starting to look like a car again now. Long way to go yet.
Thanks
Scott

[molten]

Hello
As I have just picked up a new pair of standard shocks complete with new Moss' Road Spring, Front, TriumphTune, Fast Road (TT4301 )springs delivered for £15, I have swapped them over and found that where my standard springs seemed to hardly move as I bounced on the chassis, the new springs seem to have a lot more 'bounce' in them when i do the same. I was expecting the new (uprated) springs to be just as stiff (if not more so). Bearing in mind that there is no engine, body (anything) adding weight on the springs, I am now expecting that when such weight is loaded on the springs - I will be scaping the skin off my backside when driving.

My question is how low will the chassis/sump likely be (acceptable) off the ground when springs are bearing full weight of the car (incl 15 stone driver  8) ?

Cheers
scott

[CHRIS211083]

Hi molten,
               You went for the correct springs, i have the same ones. My car sits just taller than speed bumps and that's with my weight (21stone). What you will find is that standard springs with them being so long are compressed onto the damper and they preload once released. This means that they never extend to their relaxed/no load position. The new springs you have can be fitted by hand as their is no preload and in fact if you jack up the car so the wheels are off the floor then you will notice that the springs leave their seat slightly. Dont worry about any of this its all correct and your car will handle very well. If your still worried about the ground clearance then i would suggest you fit everything back to the car and then check the height of the car. If your not happy still then you can add spacing blocks to the top of the spring turret. Moss sell them however you wont need them. Be careful as if you fit more than one then your bonnet will be pointing to the sky and your wheel to arch gaps with look too big. You will also suffer with high speed stability problems, just like the standard springs if you go much higher than this because the 1500 bumper sits so high the wind catches it. Trust me they will be fine.

I also run the standard black shocks too and im very happy with them and definitely wouldn't buy more expensive ones as these do the job perfectly.

Chris.

[molten]

Hi Chris
Thanks very much for your post. I did not thing anything serious could happen but I suppose a little re-assurance can help.
What have you done with the rear susp? Does it require some mods to align with lowered front.
I know there are a couple of methods that could be persued if necessary. Its always a good thing to see what others have done.
Cheers Chris

Molten

[CHRIS211083]

Hi,
     my car is a mk2 so has the early leaf springs. However i would recommend you leave it at full height and don't bother lowering. Reasons are simple, if you lower it then when it wears then you will get stupid camber on the rear tyres. Lowering also reduces tyre life and too much reduces grip. If you need to carry something heavy and a passenger then you will be on the floor and to make matters more interesting you might then come across a speed bump!!!!Grind!!!. Also having the rear sitting at normal height and front lower will make the car more stable at speed(70+) which the 1500's suffer with more than the early ones because of the raised front bumper etc. You will also reduce the travel when you lower it, problem with this is that the spitfire has too little travel to start with so you make a problem worse especially with the potholes we have here in Britain. The final point is the rear tyres only want a couple of deg. negative camber. On my car if you look from the rear of the car. You can see the tyres sitting bolt upright with no one in it. When the girlfriend sits in it (50kg) the suspension sags just slightly and the tyres sit in just slightly giving the correct negative camber. Im alot heavier so they probably sag a bit more(134kg 21 stone) So id say leave it standard. Id also say put your tyres to 26psi front and rear. Makes it nice and tight. If your not racing then don't try to act like it. I use my car every day for everything and it does everything. Its never going to be the quickest or corner as good as an RX7 so make it usable. These cars do handle well in standard form.

Just my opinion, Chris.

[molten]

Thanks again Chris
I was hoping not to alter standard rear setup other than new polybush eyes and pad to leaf spring & new polybushes on radius arms.
It would seem that you are using your car as I intend to use mine (sometime next summer)- normal road use - not racing (although that would be great fun).
I would have stuck with the standard spring set on the front had I not got the uprated ones so cheaply - They do seem to align better than standards.
When chassis is complete I will post some pics.
Cheers Chris

[willcolumbine]

Using lowering blocks at the rear is often used to 'correct' the camber produced by a brand new spring. If you're fitting a brand spanking new rear spring you might find you get positive camber without a lowering block. If you're existing one is still good you should be ok!

Personally, I have my Spit as low as practically possible front and rear. I've found the best handling occurs with just a touch more height at the front than the rear. Most race spitfires seem to be set up this way.