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99176

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99176 wrote:
Both of Marcus' pics are MkI and MkII 'work in progress' by my son.
I am approaching this from a slightly different angle.
All geometry will be as original, but I am aware of the problems associated with offset springing.
BTW I do like AVO,s but admit to fitting spherical bearings every time.


I though it was Keith but I was wondering how Marcus got hold of the pic! I have emailed Karl but had not had a reply from him regards any progress on the sale of the kit?

Rob

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I cant be sure, but I think Karl changed the early version, after I had a chat with him.
2nd much better now,  said he was wanting to keep it standard as much as possible, so the same mounts can still be used on a GT
So going by what he said it seems lodgical too keep lower links and location spots for em.

Mr Arachnid, not if the roto spring is used, as it is the one reason that with longer lower links, the camber change is 0
as the spring actually bends inwards,so taking top link with it.
with oot the spring , you will have about 1 deg neg on bump,and 1.5  deg positive on droop
going by my mock up i made.

come on Keith, bung some pics up Pleeeeeese,so us folk  with  a tinkerous disposition :)

Myself, Im giving the BMW diff set up some serious thought again.
the idea of 32 mph x 1000 rpms in  OD top is a bigg allure

M

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Quote:
Mr Arachnid, not if the roto spring is used, as it is the one reason that with longer lower links, the camber change is 0
as the spring actually bends inwards,so taking top link with it.
with oot the spring , you will have about 1 deg neg on bump,and 1.5  deg positive on droop
going by my mock up i made.


I would be interested to see your mock up, with out the spring, Marcus or some details of it, I can only think that the top and bottom links/wishbones are not parallel to start with as a longer link has a lower movement of arc than a short one.

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Just for you m Boy, here ye are

I used a bit of wood the same length as half the spring, and moved the bottom bit

in / oot /up  / doon, untill I got some where where I wanted
I could not get it perfect with this, but the spring took care of the odd degree out on the car, as stated before.

its maybe a crude way of dooing it, but I like shed  tune  fiddlin ways.  :) :)

NOTE, the full bump,and Droop settings on this mock up, are at least 2-3 inches moer travel than what can be got on the car, due to chassis and shocker restrictions.
So these figs, would have been less,if done to actual movement ont car, follow,!!!

Also these wernt final figs got, but no far off. it ran to quite a few pages of trial an error.
but easy whenst on a bench set up.

and this was an early set up, as I ended up wid the lower link  nearly 14 inches lang
as opposed to 11 3/4 on here.














M

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Many thanks for the details Marcus that makes a lot of sense to me now, I will do a mock up like yours when I come to do my mods. I will be doing your mod of longer/lower links with transverse spring first then experimenting with my old chassis to convert to Ford diff/halfshafts and double wishbones.

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Nick_Jones wrote:
Generally a (smallish) increase in negative camber as the suspension compresses is considered an advantage - because it tends the keep the most tyre tread on the road when cornering.

Nick

Like the test rig  :)


That's what I thought :)

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I also suspect a small change to positive camber on droop is useful too, as it sets the inboard tyre up correctly in a corner (if you ski it makes even more sense).
Obviously the situation where the old swing axle cars jack up is rather less than helpful, but a small change to neg on compression and pos on droop  may well be ideal. This is all gut feeling, and difficult to explain :o

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99176 wrote:
Hi Rob,
Not easy to contact, I agree, otherwise I wouln't need to ask advice on here.
Kids eh?


Yes mate I understand, It seems a shame he doesn't reply to business emails as well as his dad, someone may develop the set up before him and get the sale!

I need some CV jointed drive shafts with the conversion!

How you doing?

Rob

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  • 4 months later...

I'm just starting to think about getting around to starting to put my suspension back together (the bare chassis is looking lonely on its side in the garage... why do I have so many projects on the go!?).
This concept looks good, easy to fit, and looks like it'll work better than the original setup,
I am a little concerned about torque twist though...
Keep up the good work

SkUG

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Marcus,
Your heroic experiment is after my own heart, and I'd encourage others to do the same - it really gives you a feel for your suspension.  But I'd also encourage them to do it in the way I did in the Courier, years ago, by making full sized but 2D card models of the upright, spring and wishbone.    With a big drawing board, it makes experiments a lot easier!

John

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SkUG wrote:
I'm just starting to think about getting around to starting to put my suspension back together (the bare chassis is looking lonely on its side in the garage... why do I have so many projects on the go!?).
This concept looks good, easy to fit, and looks like it'll work better than the original setup,
I am a little concerned about torque twist though...
Keep up the good work

SkUG


Torque twist not an issue in power-on situtations as torque reaction is passed back to the diff but might be under braking.

Nick

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