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Setting the Stag's tappet clearances


franksm

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Hi folks

Job for the weekend: measure the clearances under the camshafts before ordering up the required shims.

But when it comes time to fit them and get the correct clearances - can the camshafts be removed and leave the sprockets/timing-chain in place ? Or will that need to be all removed too ?

Cheers

Frank

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I'm not sure if the Stag has the exact same head set up as the Dolomite (obviously two of them), but on the Dolly and TR7 etc. you can bolt the camshaft pulley to a support plate, which in theory should keep the chain tensioned (but be careful because I had a Sprint one over tension on me once).

A Haynes manual should explain...

I think you're going to need the camshaft off in order to work out what you need to order. You'll need to measure your gap first, then drop the camshafts off and measure the size of the shim, then work out what size shim you need to replace it based on original plus/minus difference.

Make sure you replace all of the cam buckets back in their original positions (ie. don't mix them up) and use an accurate micrometer.

If you have to re-shim, they can be a pain to get hold of. You can get them from most specialists for about £1 each, but if they haven't got your size stocked, they may need to make them which can take a few days to turn round. ::)

Good luck.

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Having done the shimming on a stag and a V12 Jag (yikes)... I took some advice from someone who had done PLENTY of Stags and his advice was to set the shims about 1-2 thou TIGHT. As as soon as you start the engine you gain a thou or two of clearance as everything is "compressed" and you get the correct clearance. If you set the clearances spot on you end up with a bit of a rattler..............

It works for me.... still dream (nightmares?) of that bloody jag.........

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Hi again folks

I started to measure the gaps today. Well, as much as I could as I could only do two on one bank before having to turn the engine over (and the gaps do seem to be "out" in general).

Problem: how do you turn the engine over ?! There's absolutely no room to get a spanner  onto the crank bolt as the radiator is in the way, and the fan sits very close to it.

Before I remove the rad, is there any secret to doing this ?

And when I had the cam-cover off, I could see a bracket in line with the cam-sprocket's central bolt-hole. I guess that is to be used to temporarily bolt the sprocket so that the camshaft can be removed without the whole lot disappearing into the bowels of the motor ?

Ta

Frank

PS. ALso removed the rear lights, and front indicators, took the lenses apart and gave everything a good oul wash. Amazing how nice they come up ! 30 years of grime, dust etc

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[quote by=franksm link=Blah.pl?b=stag,m=1133899124,s=4 date=1134224522]...when I had the cam-cover off, I could see a bracket in line with the cam-sprocket's central bolt-hole. I guess that is to be used to temporarily bolt the sprocket so that the camshaft can be removed without the whole lot disappearing into the bowels of the motor ?[/quote]

Frank, that was the bracket I was talking about in my earlier post - just remember about the tensioners...

As for the crankshaft pulley bolt, I've only ever done this in a TR7 which didn't have the viscous fan, so if you can't get to it, that may be your answer.

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Well, that went ok I think.
I removed the rad, the intake tract, and the cam covers, then followed procedure ro remove the camshafts after measuring the gaps.

I found that only three of the 16 tappet clearances where within spec !! And one had zero gap ! That accounts for all the tappet noise hopefully.

I don't have spare shims, so will have to leave the car as is while I order them from Paddocks.

Pictures at http://mx5ireland.com/stag/hvv416n/tappets

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