Building a 16v engine

[TRad]

I have a recon 8v engine and access to a sprint engine. Is it economical to build a tr7 variant vs. buying ready built kit from somewhere like rimmers? Understand manifold clearance issues etc to I overcome? Cheers

[mikeyb]

I take it you mean a 16V TR7? The Sprint lump should drop staight in with no clearance issues

[Beans]

As long as you don't use the original Sprint exhaust manifold there are no clearnce issues.
But you'll have to source a TR7 Sprint manifold to replace the original one.
For the rest as Mike already stated pretty straightforward swap.

As for the economy  :-/

[TRad]

Hi yeah I mean tr7 16v. So if I have access to a used dolly sprint engine, there's no merit in converting 8v engine spare then really. So is it Only the exhaust manifold that's different then? Some of the conversions I've read male out as though it's lots of differences that require you to buy their 'kits' !

[Beans]

As long as the Dolly Sprint engine comes complete with all ancillaries you will only need the exhaust manifold.
But bear in mind that all cylinder head related parts are different, as well as the distribution/timing, pistons and ignition.

[TRad]

Hi beans thanks for the advice. So what does that mean in terms of dizzy etc? I have to get them from a dolly as well?

[Beans]

yes, same goes for the intake manifold and the carburettor linkage

[TRad]

Ok thanks

[Raider]

Maybe clearing things up a bit (or not :-/).

If you have everything from the Sprint you will be fine - apart from the exhaust manifold as already said. A new exhaust manifold will be much less restrictive than the Sprint one anyway so will help with power. If I remember correctly you'll also need to get a very rare TR7 16V heater pipe casting for the rear of the cylinder head - or make one.

But you will need everything with the Dolly Sprint engine - the dizzy is different and the inlet manifold of course so as Theo said you will need the carb linkages too.

As Mike and Theo have said, actually fitting the engine in the TR7 is absolutely fine with no clearance issues at all.

[Beans]

Raider wrote:

... If I remember correctly you'll also need to get a very rare TR7 16V heater pipe casting for the rear of the cylinder head - or make one ...

Good you pointed that out, completely forgot that one.
You could use the original blanking plate but for coolant circulation it's better to make up something.

[Shauniedawn]

Don't forget you need to use your TR7 sump and the viscous fan set up too.

Make sure you use the sprint flywheel which is lighter than the TR7 item.

Shaun

[dursley]

TRad, just came across this so hope its not too late as I just put a Sprint engine in my own TR7.
So long as you have a complete Sprint engine its very easy as everyone else has said.
The exhaust manifolds are readily available - I bought a new stainless one but have an old spare mild steel one in the back of the garage.  There will not be very much clearance to the chassis rail, probably less than half an inch, but as long as your engine mounts are good that will be fine.
The heater connection  is easy when you know how. I bought one of Rimmers modified covers for the back of the head, and you need the threaded elbow off your own head to go with it.. You can use your existing transfer/return pipe that runs along under the carbs, just need to swap the fitting wher it goes into the manifold.
Had the car on the rollers and its giving about 138bhp so well pleased.  
If you want to tune it then there is loads more power on offer as well and no need to mess with gear ratios like the V8 route.

Good luck     Russ

[TRad]

Great thanks Russ!