Trifire Posted August 21, 2007 Share Posted August 21, 2007 Hi,After an advisory on the MOT,I will be changing my front wheel bearings on the 13/60. Any tips or things to watch out for?Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elm-phoenix Posted August 21, 2007 Share Posted August 21, 2007 found it easy to do, was plesetly suprised, as manual stated, use old ring upside wown to tap in new rinds so hammer doesent damage them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Baxter Posted August 22, 2007 Share Posted August 22, 2007 Only problem I had was getting the old races out of the hub, took a fair while to drift them out. And remember not to fully pack the hub with grease when you're reassembling it, else the grease will expand and contaminate your brakes or somesuch.Do both front bearings at the same time, that sort of thing. I also changed the brake fluid in the car then as I had been fiddling with the brakes and had better access to the bleed nipples.Oh, and reassembling the brake calliper and fitting it back around the disc is a bit of a fiddle, it was getting the bolts all the way through both sides that was the trouble if I remember rightly, not too bad though. Remember that if you need a better view then you can just turn the wheel! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trifire Posted August 22, 2007 Author Share Posted August 22, 2007 Thanks for the help.One question though, how do I get the correct endfloat at the hub? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted August 22, 2007 Share Posted August 22, 2007 RTFM!But the description is in the "Braking System" section of your Haynes!The quick and dirty method is to tighten the hub nut to hand tight with a spanner, then back off to the first position in which you can fit a NEW split pin to the castellated nut.John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
100+ Posted August 22, 2007 Share Posted August 22, 2007 Surely to fit a nut to hand tight you tighten it with your, er, hand?My tip, Stagfire would be to tighten the nut until there is JUST discernable play at the rim. Go for a quick spin once it's done, then recheck after the test drive, to allow for the bearing to settle under load.Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 22, 2007 Share Posted August 22, 2007 my guess is the mot tester was not experienced about the need for free play on front hubs what did he advise???,, why do you need to change them???if theres no noise on rotation and the end float has been set as above posts ie nip it and back off one flat then its all fine ,, peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted August 22, 2007 Share Posted August 22, 2007 Yep, only change if rough or you supect thay are damaged. Usually tightening up a flat or two takes out the excess play.If you do replace then tighten up but not really hard on the spanner, spin the wheel a bit, back off as johnd said and reassemble pin etc. Take for a drive with some bends in, then jack up and check by rocking top and bottom of wheel.Should be VERY slight play, just noticable. If more, tighten up nut and repeat. I check again after a few days too, just in case. Sometimes seems to take a while to settle in (happened twice to me out of maybe 20?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 100+,"Finger tight" means what it says. You use your fingers only."Hand tight" can be as tight as you like, depending on the lever arm you use, and again means 'hand' tight, no leaning into it with shoulder or body."Hand tight with a spanner" means about, very roughly and no comebacks, 40ft.lbs"Hand tight" with a breaker bar, could be four times that. If the breaker bar is four times longer than a spanner. Or six. Or a hundred.It's all mechanics - remember Archimedes?"Give me a fulcrum, a place to stand AND A LEVER LONG ENOUGH [my caps] and I shall move the Earth"But further.1/ Do it as above, test drive, jack up and wiggle the wheel, holding it top and bottom. ANY discernable play is too loose, IMHO.2/ The stub may be cross drilled once, or twice. "One flat" equals 60 degrees, the maximum that you may need to move the nut to find a single drilling. But if there are two drillings, you need back off the nut by a maximum of only 30 degrees.John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trifire Posted August 23, 2007 Author Share Posted August 23, 2007 Advisory note states " Both sides front wheel bearings noisy" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 the WSM is quite clear , rotate wheel and tighten nut to 5lbft,( thats just a nip with a short wrench) then unscrew one flat to give between 0.002" and 0.008" of end float 0.008" will give an appreciable rock on the wheel, one flat is obviosly a goog guide but if you can find a magnetic base and a dial indicator to really measure what you have would be nice ive got some but live in Luton just remember that taper bearing on the front hubs need some end float or you will sieze it very quickly if its got any preload ( under pressure) and then you'll probably need a stub axle as the whole lot will be welded togethernot enough is much worse than too much.....Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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