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Adjusting non-self-adjusting brakes


Greeks

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So i've noticed a few references to the famous non-self-adjusting rear brakes on Mk2 saloons this last week.

My self-adjusters don't adjust either and, IIRC, when i've done it manually, flicking the little ratchet mechanism through the inadequate cut-out it goes too far and I struggle to get the brake drum back on and things rapidly deteriorate into the seven stages of grief in the garage:

- Shock or Disbelief (come on, they must go on)
- Denial (surely they do, i'm just not doing it right...cue soft blow hammer)
- Anger (F*)#$%^, C&)%^&$s, B$%#$% brakes!!!!)
- Bargaining (Go on, please work, if you do i'll treat the whole car to a wash.)
- Guilt (Oh dear, this is all my fault)
- Depression (Do I really have to take the shoes off to get them back in again and start again)
- Acceptance and Hope (ok, so I do, but it won't take that long, let's start all over again)  :B


Anyway, my handbrakes becoming useless again so it's time I adjusted the non-adjusting self-adjusters again I guess.

So, has anyone a fail-safe method to adjusting the buggers that will save me at least a couple of stages of grief ... please  :) (and don't say change for the adjustable ones as I'm not about to do that).

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Hello Greeks,

the method I've used with success is to disconnect the handbrake cable at one wheel, then stand hard on the brake pedal a couple of times. You should hear the adjuster ratchet up as you do it. Reconnect the cable and you should find that you have a working handbrake.

Alec

PS, ensure the handbrake actuators on each drum are free and not seized, you'll need to remove the drum to check,  i.e. the pivot between the arm and the cross link that goes between the two shoes.

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Thanks Alec ... isn't that the reverse of the book procedure? I though they said you should jack up the wheels and apply the handbrake ... maybe i reversed it in my mind.

I'll definitely try it first though!!!

piman wrote:
Hello Greeks,

the method I've used with success is to disconnect the handbrake cable at one wheel, then stand hard on the brake pedal a couple of times. You should hear the adjuster ratchet up as you do it. Reconnect the cable and you should find that you have a working handbrake.

Alec

PS, ensure the handbrake actuators on each drum are free and not seized, you'll need to remove the drum to check,  i.e. the pivot between the arm and the cross link that goes between the two shoes.

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I use Alec's method except that I disconnect the handbrake cables at the drum and hold the levers tight against the rear of the drum, usually via cable ties around a couple of the wheel studs. If you have already removed the drums and reset the adjusters to their pre-adjusted positions and replaced the drums, when you stamp on the brake pedal a few times you will hear the adjusters clicking up.
Repeat a couple of times, reconnect the cables and check handbrake. It should be loads better.
As has been said before, if  you had a mk1 with manual adjusters, you wouldn't down-grade to the mk2 self (lol) adjusters.

Colin

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Hi Greeks

As an apprentice mechanic at a BL franchise back in the 70s a trick we used to use was to drive in reverse at high speed and hit the brakes hard… and repeat. Try it with the foot brake and with the handbrake alternately.

This might be one of those old fashioned cures that shocks the adjuster back into life, bit like kicking the bumper to get the earth back on numberplate lights. I suppose in principle in reverse the shoe with the adjustment on it becomes a leading edge shoe as the piston pushes it out and the rotating drum in reverse will snatch it as you hit the pedal and ratchet it out a little further.

Then again I could be talking complete B*llo£s.

It must be worth a try.

PS mine has manually adjustable ones… but we won't go there.

Cheers
Dazzer

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