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67 Mk1 GT6 restoration


byakk0

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  • 2 weeks later...

You're cooking on gas Hazen. Great piece of work. Well done.

I had to laugh this week. When I took the G15 over to the painter, he took one look at the aluminium bonnet and said well, I can see you're panel work hasn't improved John. A bit later he noticed some special nuts I'd machined up and said, they look nice. You're good at lathe work and crap with panels. 🙂

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Quoted from byakk0
Thanks John.

You know he means well I'm sure its far better workmanship than he gives you credit for. But what is working on these cars if we can't laugh at our own shortcomings, right?


Indeed he does mean well Hazen  and we  get on really well and always have a good laugh, mostly at my expense. But he's absolutely right; my work falls painfully short of the standards professionals achieve and it's down to him to work his magic so that the finished result looks good. So,  I've made a vow that for my next project (no, I haven't a clue what it will be yet) I'll improve my hammer and dolly skills and that the panel work will be so good I can polish it. Something petite like a Cooper Bobtail would be a nice project.

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slow going this week. Other projects got in the way.... (that never happens!!!)

Made a template of the rear mounting flange from the original out of hardboard. I'l get it fit to this and make it fits correctly before I make the flange in metal. Test fitting it here.


Just leaned it up against the tunnel for a quick fit check and photo. I'll weld on some temporary tabs so I can screw the hardboard to the metal tunnel for the sake of perfecting the fit before I move on to metal.
I wanted to do a little bit more welding on it today but I found I left the valve on the bottle open and the gasa all leaked out on me since I last fired it up. oopsie!

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Need to recover my dash pad. My first attempt was to cover a different crash pad with colored fiberglass resin. Didn't turn out how I had hoped, and the surface is very brittle.
I stripped all the vinyl off this one a few years ago. Most of it just came off easily, but some of the pieces I needed to persuade with a heat gun.



Closeup of the cracks. You can see a PO's attempt of repair. White silicone caulk was smeared into the cracks


Using minimal expanding spray foam.


Filled and ready to dry. Wait the recommended cure time on the can.


After it cured I quickly shaped it with a 60 grit flap-wheel on my angle grinder. I'm done for now, but next time I take a crack at it I'll finish shaping with sandpaper.

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Trimmed the excess with a cheap HF break away knife. You can extend it and it's flexible so you can get a nice flush cut with a sharp knife. I finished with my bodywork long board.
Turned out decent but a few chunks came loose that need addressed. I didn't get around to testing the effect my glue has yet.

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I remembered the reason I had that old ratty tire on in the first place. I went to swap my new rim and tire and discovered I can't get my replacement adapter installed as the recessed holes cut for the stock lug nuts was too small diameter to accommodate a regular socket. Notice I said replacement. I have somehow managed to lose a one over the years. I have a replacement prepped but never checked the fit of the socket, so I have it out for adjusting. I tried with a dremel but only managed to shave off maybe 1/2 mm in about an hours worth of time and I need up to 2mm, x4 holes. (unless anyone has any ideas on how to enlargen a hole in aluminum with simple hand-tool, like a drill and dremel)
Anyway, I've got it sitting on 3 good tires and one I don't dare drive on any distance all.



Also,
Got a 'New' dual choke cable. The cables are a tad long but will function just fine for now. I set the OEM knob aside so I wouldn't lose it, so naturally I can't find it.


I also stripped and repainted the dash vents and ashtray. At one time I had plans to redo the dash in blue.






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  • 4 weeks later...

been slow updating here the past few projects, but time to work on my car is one commodity I have not had in abundance lately.

A little more work on the dash pad.
Filled the low spots then covered it with a 1/4" sheet of foam. Used 3m 76 spray glue.
Cover in vinyl later


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You may recall me not being to get my idle down below 1500 due to worn shafts.

I ordered some new ones, courtesy of http://joecurto.com/ in New York.
These are 150CDSE, where one shaft is about 1" longer than the other. Stateside vendors want about $19 and $50 respectively. Joe had them both for $18/ea. Added 4 gaskets just to have them on hand. Total was less than $50 shipped.



new and old, side by side. See how bad it is?


I got them installed and started the GT6 and instantly the revs were just below 1500 with no additional adjustments. Good sign, but I haven't had the time to adjust them properly. Ran out of time when I installed them, and when I went to work on them yesterday I discovered I'd left the key on and ran the battery down.

So, while it was charging I turned my attention to my tunnel.
Its not done yet, but getting close.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Been fighting the carbs, even with a unisyn. Slowly getting there. Got a friend that will loan me a color tune.
Also discovered the 4 lug nuts I have for my last adaptor are actually too big, so I've been chasing down the correct ones. 3/8-24 thread are rare and no one in town have them. I ordered some today but so I could work on my car I bought some regular nuts with a washer built in. I was able to get my rim installed so I could drive it and hopefully get a good read on my spark plugs.





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Are you going to use an isolation on the underside of the tunnel?

I would imagine the sound and heat would became a problem, the original one i had without the camping isolation bags on the underside was hot and noisy. i used a polyethylene cover and covered the whole underside with anti drumming plate. This helps heat and sound!

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