heraldtom1985 Posted February 19, 2007 Share Posted February 19, 2007 Hi. Just wondering which alternator I should use on my 1964 Herald when I change it from dynamo to an alternator. I have got one of a 1994 Mini I've just broke up for spares and it has a Lucas A127 I think so I'll have one to exchange if it's suitable. I've got the cast iron mount from a late Spitfire off ebay for 99p. Do I need anything else?Also am I right in thinking that if I get an old control box, gut it and link the terminals A, A1 and D together, then connect terminals F and E together and connect it up as normal except with the ignition warning light wire going to terminal E that every thing will work as it should? I aslo assume the the large and small terminals from the dynamo just plug straight onto the alternator? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heraldtom1985 Posted February 19, 2007 Author Share Posted February 19, 2007 Just found an expoled diagram on Rimmer Bro's site so I know what extra bits I need now. Looks like a A127 bolts on the same as Lucas ACR16 or 17 alternator so I'd assume it bolts on. Looks like I just need to know if im right about my wiring. I'd like to keep it inside the old control boxs, I've seen some nasty bodges on Minis and old Fords at shows... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted February 20, 2007 Share Posted February 20, 2007 Not sure of letters for the wires, but you no longer need the earth. The thin field wire to the dynamo/alternator connects to the warning light, all others join together.You may need a different adjusting arm, but it may depend on fan belts, pulley size and alternator size etc.I used a piece of copper tube with tags cut into it, easy and quick. Wasn't too confident my soldering iron would cope with the wire sizes needed for the current, but it could be paranoia!Clive Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 20, 2007 Share Posted February 20, 2007 we fitted a a127 to our 1600 vit6 but completely we wired the machine to reduce connections and upgrade the wire section just needed a spacer on the original bracket,, make sure the tail mount can slide on its tube/spacer to allow expansion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferny Posted February 20, 2007 Share Posted February 20, 2007 My alternator came out of a Fiesta from a scrap yard. All you need to do is make sure the pulley is the same as on the dynamo.How far does the wiring on a 1200 differ from a 13/60? Here's my edit. I really need to sort out the wiring on the car to clean it up.http://www.blueyedmuffin.co.uk/arse/?p=12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heraldtom1985 Posted February 21, 2007 Author Share Posted February 21, 2007 Got it on this evening, works a treat. Wiring is a little Heath Robinson at the moment because I had to drive 5 miles home from my dad's garage so it was just a quick fix. Will get sorted tomorrow, with all the connections hiding in an old black reg box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 21, 2007 Share Posted February 21, 2007 I would plan to run a new heavy gauge wire direct from the alt to the starter solenoidbattery side and dump the brown. Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heraldtom1985 Posted February 23, 2007 Author Share Posted February 23, 2007 That is the plan. I've got it all wired up neatly now, just gonna add a second feed from the alternator to the solenoid. Headlights appear brighter and getting a 14.4 volts at the battery, so looks like it all good and nothing gets hot or melts.I used an old, broken control box as a neat junction box. I removed the windings etc from it and linked up terminals A1, A and D together and then liked E and F together with 2.5 mm cored wire. Wires up the same as before except don't use the black wire, The smaller yellow wire goes on E now to link it to the ignition warning light. The colours below are as for a 1200, a 13/60 has some different coloured wires. the alternator plugs on as the dynamo did, however I used a 3 terminal block off a Mini I've broken for spares and will add the second feed from the spare wire.A1 - Both Blue/Brown wiresA - Both BrownF- Yellow/Green wireD - Yellow wire (Large)E - Yellow wire (Small)Black is not needed as it is an earth. I put some heat shrink on it and tucked it out of the way.Thanks for all the advice.Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 25, 2007 Share Posted February 25, 2007 now all you need to do is fit 2 relays and a new heavy (fused) feed at the front to supply 14v to the headlights.use the original feed as the trigger line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted February 27, 2007 Share Posted February 27, 2007 post removed on request of author Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted February 27, 2007 Share Posted February 27, 2007 post removed on request of author Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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James Posted February 28, 2007 Share Posted February 28, 2007 Here's a relayed light diagram...I just picked up a load of relays for this - ~50p each here in Taiwan :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris_Nobbs Posted February 28, 2007 Share Posted February 28, 2007 where did this diagram come from i tried a diagram from the lamp set and double checked every thing still blew up master light switch. still to try this diagram hope it works the light switches are not cheep so hopefully will not burn out any more Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferny Posted February 28, 2007 Share Posted February 28, 2007 James made it, I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris_Nobbs Posted February 28, 2007 Share Posted February 28, 2007 ok as long as it works i dont mind its got to be better than the instructions in the lights i got Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted February 28, 2007 Share Posted February 28, 2007 I made it - and it is as yet untested - but it's pretty simple as far as diagrams go so I don't think I've got it wrong!It is a bit OTT - like using a fuse per filament - you can easily simplify it.Got any questions - just ask! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris_Nobbs Posted February 28, 2007 Share Posted February 28, 2007 ok cheers james will give it ago. and get back to you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted February 28, 2007 Share Posted February 28, 2007 [quote by=jcarruthers link=Blah.pl?b=hervit,m=1171924924,s=15 date=1172663581]Here's a relayed light diagram...I just picked up a load of relays for this - ~50p each here in Taiwan :)quote]You're in Taiwan?!?!?!Seen any Triumphs????I think you probably need 10A fuses (or 8's) for the main and dip beam circuits, I think it will be unreliable running 5's, right on the rating.CheersColin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted March 1, 2007 Share Posted March 1, 2007 Yup I'm in Taiwan - home of all things electronicery.No Triumph's spotted at all - except for the bra kind.Seeing anything even remotely European is exciting. The one old Euro car I've seen is a Golf - and that's it.Good point about the 5A on the main/dip - 7.5A would be more appropriate.Not really sure what the point is for fuses on the bulbs as they are really just fuses themselves - would actually be better on the feed circuits from the light switches as they're not fused on standard cars.Version 2 coming soon maybe? :) 12 way fuse box!? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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