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Head gasket advice

L Holm

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I have blown the head gasket. After removing the head and inspected the gasket, it looks like
the gasket has erosioned from the "metal ring" see picture. There is a small pot nere the 1st and 4th bore, where the gasket have collapsed. Why those pots? Does all this due to a bad qualty gasket or ...? When reassembling do I add something (Hylomar or ...) on the gasket?

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First thing to check is that you have the right gasket.

From the second photo I can see that you have the recessed type block.  This must be used with a gasket that has thicker metal rings (fire-rings) around the cylinders.  This type of gasket has a tab on it that sticks out at the back of the engine.

There are also engines that don't have the recesses around the cylinders and use a different gasket with thinner fire-rings.  This gasket will fail quickly if used on an engine with recesses.

I prefer to use the black gaskets made by Payen.  These don't need any extra sealant.


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and  a pet hate ,   also check the washers have not deformed , many start to collapse under the load on the nut, its important to use hd nuts and washers , many gaskets fail due to the washer deformation looses torque and clamp load   if they are not nice and flat they must not be reused  
Canely sell the Heavy duty nuts /washers

this is due to the high loading of 46lbft on a 3/8" stud  
std nuts washers will not survive .


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Quoted from L Holm
Do you re tighten the nuts after some miles?

Yes.  I do them after 500 miles.  Following the normal tightening order, I loosen each nut slightly in turn, then re-torque to the specified value.

Some prefer to do them sooner, after just one or two heat cycles.

Not quite clear whether you are talking about a 4 or 6 cylinder engine.  If a six cylinder it will have bigger 7/16" studs and higher torques - something that not all the manuals are very clear about.


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