frostie Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 hi allhave been looking at posts on and off for a while now ,information has been very helpfull at times .have been cleaning up ?? a 67 mk2 spitty have been puting loom back in (freaking nightmare) have got everything working apart from horn (got that down to earth on wheel )but the problem that is getting me is ,when i turn on ignition the ignition /oil lights come on ok,when i leave ignition off and pull my master light switch one click for parking lights/dash lights all ok till i press brake pedal and my warnig lights come on instead of brake light ? can only think that its via the 3 whites from ignition ,on warning lights should the white ignition feed go to the bulb centre or outer sheath ?also car came with seperate oil gauge connected to sump plug which i have replaced with normal sump bolt,but on the idiot light feed is a t with an ali cannister with a 2 spade connection ,which im guessing is an early type iol sender ,was wondering if i connect via ,voltage stabiliser to gauge ,gauge to sender sender to earth ?? like fuel and temp gauges only been at it 18 months its a labour of love (as they all are )will try to post photos (always struggle with that aspect of computing ?!thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junkuser Posted August 21, 2014 Share Posted August 21, 2014 "also car came with seperate oil gauge connected to sump plug"That sounds like an oil temperature sensor.Possibly a home creation if the gauge it is connected to is a pressure gauge rather than a temperature one as electrical gauges can be used for other purposes with a little lateral thinking. They only measure current flow or voltage drop.Just seems a funny place to pick up an "earth" if that's all it was. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nang Posted August 21, 2014 Share Posted August 21, 2014 Does sound like an earthing problem to me, brake light earthing back through the other warning lights.Tony. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frostie Posted August 21, 2014 Author Share Posted August 21, 2014 hi thanks for replythe car had a gauge (electric) connected to a single spade sender the same type that is used for idiot light ,dont know if it worked or not (bought with engine probs found the thrust washer in sump,)have reinstated origanal dash ,with smiths amp & oil gauges in the radio position.so do you connect the same as fuel and temp ?.origanal fitting ,although unused so do not know how to test so was gonna wire it and see ?have got to find sticky for getting photos on here (bear with me :)had an hour on car tonight still cant work out brake light issue ,do the rear brake /parking lamps need earthing ?the parking lamps work ? on the plus side took off s/ wheel cleaned every thing ,it was the 3 prong horn push retainer ,so just the front spots (not sure if relay wired correctly ?)and brakes then i can start it after a small prayer :'(cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frostie Posted August 26, 2014 Author Share Posted August 26, 2014 hi allwell some humble pie !!had the rear lights earthed via body,decided to run from earth point in the light casing (though there wasnt any in first place ?)when i was doing work i took out bulbs (heres the embarrassing part) one of the bulbs was single filament DOH .so all working now spots took another few hours to work out ,a pull switch is being used on the -side ,i presume so as not to burn out switch ?although wiring is on a relay,did not have the earth connected in dash ,so they work now ,is this switching method ok ? will try and post a picture (keeps telling me too big ,how can i load up some pictures bulk ?)but this oil pressure sender i have teed of off idiot light was never wired up ,so at a loss if it even works (any tests i can do ?)it has 2 spade terminals ,no symbols.as previous post do i connect as a fuel/temp via voltage stabilizer?.but what would i connect the other spade to ,earth ?.im sure coil is connected as in photos i took before taking apart (1 1/2 yrs ago )but if it is -earth system is it +to dizzy from coil ?and finally i have doubts on my timing now ,after having the engine sat there for a yr .was looking at posts on timing (as i am going to fire it up soon :) )think i have made a stupid mistake and set up timing with rotor pointing to WAIT FOR IT nmb 1 on the cylinder not the dizzy .all abuse accepted could kick meself,now reading posts if my rotor is pointing to 1on cylinder it looks like nmb 2 on dizzy if my vacuum advance misses dynamo can i turn dizzy to line up with 1 ??would this have any adverse affects ?if not a kindly explanation would be most helpfullthanks for any helpjohn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frostie Posted August 26, 2014 Author Share Posted August 26, 2014 only me again hopefully a pic of seperate iol gauge im trying to connectmore pics to follow whats the smallest size i can reduce ,this one photo took up half the allowancecheersjohn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junkuser Posted August 27, 2014 Share Posted August 27, 2014 Those two spades are connected so the same electrical connection.Do not "earth" one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frostie Posted August 27, 2014 Author Share Posted August 27, 2014 thanks for reply junkuserabout 12 ish came to same conclusion, have wired it to gauge then gauge to voltage stabiliser ,same as fuel/temp gaugesjust have to see if works dont want to fire it up yet as waiting to see if anyone has a reply to my previous post on the timing issue ,if not wont gamble and will drain down fluids and set sprockets again ,after a spending a grand on engine , its an origanal matching nmb first rebore 20over i dont want to knacker it,does it matter on which side i connect voltage stabiliser to on oil .temp .fuel gauge ?cheers john Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nang Posted August 28, 2014 Share Posted August 28, 2014 Don't wire it to the voltage stabilizer. This is only for fuel and temp gauges. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. >:(Tony. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frostie Posted August 28, 2014 Author Share Posted August 28, 2014 thanks tonyi thought as it involved a gauge & sender ,like the fuel & temp .i would do it that way ? do i take a fused feed to gauge then to sender ,guage & bulb earthed via dash ?still not sure on the spots togle switch set up (switching on the black earth to the relay0.even though it works ?i would have thought a master light switch feed to togle then to relay to energise would not burn out togle switch only surmising an experienced opinion would be much appreciated was thinking of starting another post on timing ,i have read a 2009 post very interesting ,but still unsure of outcome both arguments seemed valid yes just move dizy round ,no reset timing chain !!!? stupid after all the work done ,but all fluids/petrol freshly loaded 3 wks ago all gasket sealed would rather reset it all later in winter ,if i can start it by turning dizy to correspond with 1 on dizy lobe (instead of 1 on cylinder any opinions/ advice appreciatedcheersjohnphoto of car when i bought it 2 yrs ago took it apart now trying to put together :-/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junkuser Posted August 29, 2014 Share Posted August 29, 2014 The timing chain drives the cam shaft, so adjusting position on its sprockets sets the valve opening/closing timing in relation to the crankshaft position.Once this is set correctly, the distributor position is set to give the correct ignition timing.With the number one piston almost at the top of its compression stroke, the points should be just about to open and the rotor should be pointing to near where the lead to spark plug one is in the cap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nang Posted August 29, 2014 Share Posted August 29, 2014 Your wiring sounds about right to me. I love relays and fuses, much easier on the switch gear and less voltage drop (brighter) at the the lamps.Tony. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frostie Posted September 2, 2014 Author Share Posted September 2, 2014 hi therehave done the dash just needs tidying ,have run a wire from voltage stabiliser to gauge ,gauge to sender for oil presure gauge,can this do any harm if wrong ?have now taken of timing cover, reset timing .rotor pointing to 1 ,1 on tdc on cylinder .timing mark at tdc ?now need to set by test light ?is it when light comes on or of ?according to haynes it then should start !!? ,IF it does then setup strobe, set timing to 17 %btdc .then i can adjust on the vernier when driving?does this look /sound right (in photos)be nice if i can get on road this year all help comments with thanksjohn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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