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Clutch Woes....


Matt306

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About a year ago I put a new clutch in the Spit prior to it going on the road. I brought a new master cylinder new slave cylinder. I have a new pipe but the clutch has never worked satisfactorily. I have renewed the seals and have another slave cylinder in both i still cant get the clutch to work so i can select a gear. I presume it must be an air lock. I have swapped the  push road to an adjuster one take out slack.  I have a solid pipe with a coil in it , not had these problems with the Herald, any clues anyone???

 

The pivot arm pin is there still as well.

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I believe it is doing its job but will check. 

 

Previously i made the cutout for the bolt on the slave bigger allowing the slave to be moved forward to take out the slack. Surely this is treating the symptom not the cause. Or is it the cheap COUNTY parts?

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Highly unlikely to be problems with the slave and master cylinders as theres no fluid leaking from them....

There is an additional internal seal in the master cylinder which can leak without allowing fluid to escape but if it does the slave push rod wont move properly when the pedal is pressed....  

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When I fitted a new slave cylinder it did not go far enough into the housing therefore not pushing the operating rod enough. The groove where the bolt goes through I had to grind a bit away to allow the slave to go further into the bellhousing. Also any slight wear in the clevis pin on the master cylinde r/ clutch pedal makes a huge difference at the slave end.

Danny

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Hi Matt,

If everything appears to be moving correctly then you need to question the internal assembly

have you got the friction plate the right way round.

There should be  an impression on the plate saying 'flywheel side' or something similar.

 

Roger

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Matt,

There is one more thing to check. Crankshaft end play. Push the crank fully toward the back and watch the pulley as a helper steps on the clutch pedal. Any but the slightest motion is too much. 1/16" is way too much. If the crankshaft can move that much the clutch mechanism won't have much reserve motion to release.

Best of luck,

Paul

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Quoted from drofgum-

Matt,

There is one more thing to check. Crankshaft end play. Push the crank fully toward the back and watch the pulley as a helper steps on the clutch pedal. Any but the slightest motion is too much. 1/16" is way too much. If the crankshaft can move that much the clutch mechanism won't have much reserve motion to release.

Best of luck,

Paul

I changed the crank thrust washer not long back but will double  check

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Quoted from Hogie4A-

Hi Matt,

If everything appears to be moving correctly then you need to question the internal assembly

have you got the friction plate the right way round.

There should be  an impression on the plate saying 'flywheel side' or something similar.

 

Roger

dont thing the clutch will bolt up with it the wrong way around will it? iirc the one bit in the middle is raised .

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Looking at the diagram I think it could be done (perhaps thats why they label it) and it would effectively lock the engine and gearbox together so making selecting a gear impossible. I think if its the correct way round the cover plate will almost fit flat against the flywheel so its fixing bolts only pull it up the last couple of mm. If the wrong way the gap between cover and flywheel will be bigger giving more like 7 or 8mm to be pulled up by the bolts...

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It isn't certainly possible to fit friction plate back to front and the car remain drivable.

Well sort of, the car I identified that problem on had terrible clutch slip, as the friction between the plate and the flywheel was via the 4 flywheel to crank bolts after a little bit of the friction material wore away

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Well previously I have used the clutch with no issues.  The clutch fluid was getting black in the master. The push rod was oily as i had no cover on the push rod. I know this can mean break up of the seals, not sure if it was oil getting in though? Would oil and brake fluid mix. 

I started all this as the clutch wasnt disengaging properly.

 

Previously i have had to grind a wedge in the slave so it moved forward slightly.

 

So in short I had a working clutch albeit with some alteration to the slave cylinder. The clutch worked ok on the c2c run no slipping and only recently causing me problems disengaging and selecting gears. Just cant figure why the clutch slave needs to be ground to move forward. I have left the clutch pedal depressed to see if i can compress air bubbles and will bleed again. 

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Quoted from Dannyb-

When I fitted a new slave cylinder it did not go far enough into the housing therefore not pushing the operating rod enough. The groove where the bolt goes through I had to grind a bit away to allow the slave to go further into the bellhousing. Also any slight wear in the clevis pin on the master cylinde r/ clutch pedal makes a huge difference at the slave end.

Danny

I would like to compare the dimensions of repro 'county' versions to an original

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Quoted from Dannyb-

When I fitted a new slave cylinder it did not go far enough into the housing therefore not pushing the operating rod enough. The groove where the bolt goes through I had to grind a bit away to allow the slave to go further into the bellhousing. Also any slight wear in the clevis pin on the master cylinde r/ clutch pedal makes a huge difference at the slave end.

Danny

I would like to compare the dimensions of repro 'county' versions to an original

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Im right mixed up now about the timeline of events🙃 A new clutch went in first and this worked ok? Then you changed the slave and master cylinders, the fluid went black and you changed the seals? At what stage did the clutch stop working?

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Ok New clutch before RBRR... never worked well untill i pushed slave cylinder forward, replaced rubbers on RBRR, various problems. 

A period of stability then recently trouble engaging gear, notice black fluid on master cylinder, new, rubbers for master and new slave cylinder. Its worse than before i started. No loss of fluid prior to all this. 

I guess i may end up using the old slave which i ground out the bolt ridge.

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My bet would be worn clevises and linkages. It doesn't take much wear in these bits to cause problems. I don't think you should need to attack the slave and move it foreward for it to work properly. Are you sure there is no air in the system? They can be difficult to  bleed sometimes. I've used a syringe to actually suck the fluid out from the bleed nipple on the slave before today.As for the black bits, there should be no sign of fluid on the outside. If there is you must have a leak, hence air getting in. Probably el cheapo repro parts not fit for the job.

Sorry if the above upsets you. 😠

Tony.

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Ok to confirm the correct working of the hydraulics can you remove the slave cylinder and use something to give resistance against the piston while an assistant slowly presses the pedal. There should be a full range of movement and by holding the slave so it pushes against something solid you should be able to discount air or an internally leaking M/C....

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