Pete Lewis Posted December 26, 2017 Share Posted December 26, 2017 If it needs to be lap in , Im down to micrometer blue and some grinding pastestill to strip the box so parts order will be nearer the new year, well santa has got in the way of normal speed But its looking simple needs of decent baulk rings and a few hub ball springspete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted December 27, 2017 Share Posted December 27, 2017 Hello Pete. to lap it in needs a dummy pin withoout the threads as other wise you just can't rotate it properly.Alec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted December 27, 2017 Share Posted December 27, 2017 Hello Pete, just having second thoughts. it's along time since i have done this job and my memory may be playing tricks? Does the taper part of the pin contact the base of the fork, or does it not actually pass through the cross shaft? If the latter then forget what I said as it's wrong?Alec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 27, 2017 Share Posted December 27, 2017 Hi, the crosshaft hole goes right through the shaft there is a relief counter drilling in the back of the fork to accept any protrusionso yes .noAll good stuff thanksmight have a play today Im not going out in the snowits just drop the cluster , pop the stem wheel out and get the main bearing off the shaft the silliest Is the circlip on 3rd guess that will be chopped its a bit well hidden for any normal removal but easier than some of the 18spd stuff ive been involved with developementpete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 27, 2017 Share Posted December 27, 2017 Examined the shaft the hole under magnification is past is best so new shaft is orderedbox is stripped just needs ball springs to improve the detent and new baulk rings And i dont need to remove the 3rd gear circlip wait the postman and slot it back innew clutch as fingers well worn, and I got a transmision adaptor for the trolley jack it will be a good test to try that outgetting a bit old for lift with the knees.pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 31, 2017 Share Posted December 31, 2017 just been checking the pull loads on the sleeves and selector shaftsthe sleeves are withing spec the selectors are well low at 14lbs spec is 27 for1st /2nd , so doing things the hard way fight the core plug out of the remote , spring is ok , so it needs a shim or what, the core plugs are 3/8" and ddo not appear sold by any triumph outlet so ebay to the rescuse , ordered 3 for pennies but the simpler idea is just press the plug in futher till you achive the loading on the pull test, easy to block the plug to stop it returning , this was a cost reduction the earlier boxes have a screwed plug to make adjustment easy but its all going back together , with no wear tear nasties apart from new baulk rings and 3 hub springsPete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 6, 2018 Share Posted January 6, 2018 With new spring and plug the load is still only 15lbs to pull 1/2nd selectorits the same spring and reading on 3rd4th I am begining to think the 27lbs in the manual Are for the early boxes which had a ramped detent plunger not just the simple ball the only way to raise the load is to redesign the selector detent groove to be sharper deeper not going to get carried away with that ideabut with 1st jumping out and a supposedly low detent load I wont solve the problem without some definite improvementits not worn sleeve or dog tooth wear or any endfloat on the gears or sleeve, they are perfect.ive fitted the german baulk rings which only work on synchronising they have no effect on jump outs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 11, 2018 Share Posted January 11, 2018 well the box is back in, surprised there are no dowel locations for the clutch hsg, there are 3x 3/8" bolts (over and above the normal 5/16"ones )and these 3 are not exactly a 'fit' size not my idea of keeping it all concentricjust new prop and exhaust to button up and shes done pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted January 11, 2018 Share Posted January 11, 2018 There should be three dowels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 11, 2018 Share Posted January 11, 2018 Thats what i woud have expected my Mk2 back plate has 2 dowels there is no dowel provision in the backplate for any clutch hsg dowels, there are dowel holes in the hsg but absolutely diddy squat in the back plate to fit anything ,, only bolt holes even took the back plate off thinking i can see two dowels, has some muppet had pressed them right through , but had i been a bit more observant they are just back plate /block location dowels , and dont align anywhere near the drilling in the c hsg. which are just blind against the plate struck me as odd , the 3 - 3/8"bolts seem some sort of compromised design the back plate looks aged original , its not a repro part .PetePete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 well lets try a reply on this new version forum after a good dose of the winter bug the box is in with the supposed high german made quality baulk rings the selector pull load would never climb above the 15 lb and is never going to achive the wsm figures so I will live with that result, new sleeve springs and detent springs , but the welch/core plugs you need to dig out are available on ebay but not from any triumph suppliers, 10mm and a light spread witha ball bearing to geta good tight fit ( only needd till the top cover goes on ) the result is shes very quiet, no fork /gear lever sizzle and synchro is as snappy as you like , but with correct end floats and new springs no bent forks etc she will still jump out of 1st on deceleration in 1st at 15 mph I am going to live with that ...enough enough i did buy a transmission plate to fit on the trolley jack but did not have the height to get the box on anyne wants it for some beers + made with a tilt adjustment and very solid bit of kit like this cant load the link or picture sorry Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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