Alex Posted February 13, 2011 Share Posted February 13, 2011 Well as I'm sure many people are aware I have the thirstiest saloon in existence....60 miles with about £35 maybe even £40....not sure what was already in it but I added £25 so thats the minimum!After much investigation it appears the fuel exits when the cars laid up so a leak from somewhere.Almost definately carb related though.....after various talks with people in the know it was decided that a rebuild was in order.I've bought a kit from Andrew Turner so its getting new spindles, new discs new jets and needle valves.Today I removed the carbs and started stripping one down(I'm going to do one at a time so I keep a reference).Its now all cleanedI just need to reassemble...so here a question or 2.....The butterflies have 2 holes,1 is elongated....Why?Is there anything I should do that I may not (being my first go at doing this)?In the instruction it says remove the lifting pin I cant see any reason to bother...am I right or lazy?Thanks,Alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 Hello Alex, the butterflies need to move slightly to get the best seal (fit) in the body when they are closed so some room in the holes to allow for this.I trust you only used a solvent cleaner on the inside of the dashpot and piston exterior?Alec Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted February 14, 2011 Author Share Posted February 14, 2011 Thanks Alec, I did use a solvent cleaner but now you have me asking why? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 Hello Alex, in the past some people have used abrasive cleaners, which wear the piston\dashpot and spoil the clearances. (Particularly if carried out regularly)You are probably aware but the butterflies have an angled edge so only go in one way?Alec Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicmk1est Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 hi alexyep,,butterfly`s only fit one way!check edgesdid my carb about year and bit ago,found a carb book for the cd carbs at jumble sale,have you checked the spindle hole for wear(ovalness)this can cause a air leak,i found carb cleaner is quite good,sprayd on then rub with soft sponge and rinse with warm water,repeat few time,it was clean Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted February 14, 2011 Author Share Posted February 14, 2011 Oh ok I hadnt noticed the butterflies had a leading edge.....closer inspection required.I have new spindles although the old ones were reasonable (signs of wear but no movement)but I'll be happier to know its all done.There new bushes for the spindles isnt there?I shall do a bit more tomorrow..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted February 15, 2011 Author Share Posted February 15, 2011 Well one carb is all done....Had a quick chat with Andrew Turner today just to double check about the spindle bushes.He advise leaving them alone as they'd need milling out so that answered that.He also told me the butterflies will only actually go one way anyhow,you get it wrong and its plain as day.Pretty pleased with how its all gone back together,looks better just being clean.Couldnt resist giving the dash pot a little tickle, so all looks nice n shiny too!In the kit was a couple of seals for the dash pot top.......do these need fitting?I didnt remove any.....Another carb to go,should be a lot easier just through experience......Quite therapeutic actually 8) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted February 19, 2011 Author Share Posted February 19, 2011 Well thats it both carbs cleaned and polished a bit rebuilt with new butterflies,spindles,jets etc.Hope to refit tomorrow,and see if I've messed anything up :-/All looks good though....Cant find a full set of bolts for the air box though,it was fitted with just 3 bolts before so guess I'll do the same for now,however thats why it only had 3 before.Trouble is you fit then forget :BI've even given the box a quick spray with some satin black(no primer just a dusting to smarten it up for now).I'd like to make an airbox for it at some point so didnt want to waste too much time now.Gone with BDM needles as per Andrew Turner's suggestion for good power and economy(also I already had some fitted ) he recommends BAE for power but says that will cost big at the pump.....exactly what I'm trying to rectify ;D .Alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nang Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 For what it is worth just fitted K&N's to my 2500 TC.Having looked at mintylambs SU needle chart, I've settled for BCM needles.A bit leaner than BDM's but adequate power for me. Just done a 900 km trip and averaged 31 mpg.Cheers Tony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted February 20, 2011 Author Share Posted February 20, 2011 Wow 31mpg would do me!!I do have some different needles I could try later most important thing for now is getting it back running.(BAB's and BEM's) not 100% sure I understand how you work out the different needles on James' site..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted February 20, 2011 Author Share Posted February 20, 2011 Ok carbs fitted started first time......so I fiddled ;DNow it doesnt go :(If I try and rev it it makes a sucking noise then stalls.....I've also found the front carb fill's with fuel around the jet hole but not the rear.Whats this telling me?Battery's going a bit flat now >:( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 Hello Alex, if it was OK when you first fitted them, you may have some dirt under the float needle valve? Look there first of all. Normally the fuel is about 1\8" below the jet.Alec Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted February 20, 2011 Author Share Posted February 20, 2011 Thanks Alec,However I think I've sorted it following a phone call to James Cooper.James advised going back to the start so I wound the jets up then down 3 full turns, then it started but only with choke.I then found if I covered the carb mouths it revved its wotsits off.So we worked out that there was more air than fuel so I wound the h=jets down some more.And...BINGO, it's running lovely now.Had to do a bit more fine tuning but drove it up the road without the airbox and it seemed good.Bogged down a bit on acceleration but with 1/2 a turn on each carb its fine.Ran on a little bit when I turned it off but does have a tendancy to do this anyhow.....Will refit the airbox tomorrow and try it again....will it richen up some more then?Thank,Alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dazzer Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 Hi AlexIf you slow your tickover down a little it might help your running on.CheersDarren Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 Hello Alex, are you sure you fitted the needles correctly as what you have described is far too rich a setting. the correct setting is two full turns down, and if you have to go far from that setting, there is something else wrong.Alec Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted February 20, 2011 Author Share Posted February 20, 2011 Argh ok Alec,It may have been less turns to be honest (could have been 2....as James was trying to remember on the phone,however I cant remember what we settled for )I was struggling with a flat battery and the cold by this point.I'll check it tomorrow and see where I'm at and report back.Thanks Alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted February 21, 2011 Share Posted February 21, 2011 Hello Alex, apart from the needle position in the piston, what is the fuel level like in the jets, I ask as you mentioned you had a flooding incident on one carburettor but the fuel was not in sight on the other? HS floats are non adjustable but how many washers did you put under the needle valve?Don't worry, you'll get there, and you'll have learnt a lot in the process :-)Alec Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted February 21, 2011 Author Share Posted February 21, 2011 Mmm I'm guessing its me..... :-/Its both carbs now filling with fuel due to the fact it wont start.I actually think I'm flooding it, I've checked the base setting and they are both 2 turns down now so I'll let it dry out a bit and try again.It started after everything I'd done yesterday but seemed reluctant to idle from cold with or without choke today so I started again.......Should learn to leave things alone :BI've not used any washers on the needle valves as none came with the kit I'm assuming none should be fitted.It has new needle valves and holders so should be fine?Alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted February 21, 2011 Author Share Posted February 21, 2011 Arghhhhhhhh!!!!!!Ok treat me like an idiot....what am I doing wrong...I can start it with a boost off my modern (i'm killing the battery time and again), but it wont rev without the choke.It will just about tickover without choke but nothing else.Everytime I struggle to start it after it stalling(due to me not being quick enough to rev it etc)it then floods as I'm trying throttle, no throttle choke and no choke just to get it running!I dont think its the carbs I'm sure it just me not knowing what I'm doing....oh and I've also had it so if I partially cover the carb mouth it'll rev itself up.I need to know what means what.....I'm getting proper fed up now,I never said I knew what I was doing ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted February 21, 2011 Share Posted February 21, 2011 Hello Alex, it's a long time since I ran S.U. carburettors but I thought there was a sealing washer beteen the needle valve and the float chamber lid. I don't have my S.U. manual to hand to check however. S.U.'s don't normally flood, like some carburettors with acceleration pumps. I think that the fuel level is the first thing to check. The petrol level should be a short distance below the top of the jet, if it's at the top it's too high. As I said the HS float itself is not adjustable, but a sealing washer will lower the needle valve closing point so lowering the fuel level.Did you replace the jets and if so were they centered to the needles?Alec Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted February 21, 2011 Author Share Posted February 21, 2011 Hello Alec,Yes I changed the jets but as for centering to the needle :-/ huh?I just pushed it in the bottom.....As for float fuel level, I'm assuming the only way I can check this is take the top of,then expect/hope the level is perhaps 1/2" down?Seems everyones gone a bit quiet on here with regard to my queries.....there only Alec answering ;DThanks, Alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Royboy66 Posted February 21, 2011 Share Posted February 21, 2011 Hey Alex, heres a vid for you to watch (and his others! ;)) Hope it helps 8)http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sxVFCY_1aSA&feature=channelFloat level........http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z6Le_HkrkKQRoy 8) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted February 21, 2011 Share Posted February 21, 2011 Hello Alex, the video shows a 'H' type which is more involved which is why the 'HS' type was developed as it did away with the leaky jet seal. Fundementally the procedure is the same, with the aim to get the needle to enter the centre of the jet. The jet floats about the needle centre until the upper clamping nut is tightened. So screw your jet all the way up with the upper clamping nut loose, push the piston down hard into the jet (with the dashpot fitted) using a screwdriver or the like in the top where the damper fits. Tighten the jet clamping nut and check by doing the drop test shown at the very beginning of the video. Harder to write about than do.According to my S.U. manual the HS float is not supposed to be adjusted by bending the arm, however if it works, OK. I seem to remember using a sealing washer to alter the needle valve height/Alec Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkDeTriomphe Posted February 21, 2011 Share Posted February 21, 2011 Hi Alex,Pretty sure you'll have the all plastic floats - so you will need to adust with washers as in the second of the links in Roy's post.As far as cetralising the jet goes, I believe that's all taken care of by the spring loaded needles on the later HS carbs - there is only one tightening nut and I certainly can't see anyway to move the jet around. You definitely won't have any of the washers and cork etc shown on the first video.As you have had the car running and driving, my assumption is that you have too much fuel rather than too little.So, the most imprtant thing is to get the float level right. Also, before starting to adjust the jets, make sure the top of each jet is flush with the bridge before winding them down.Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted February 22, 2011 Share Posted February 22, 2011 Hello Mark, "I believe that's all taken care of by the spring loaded needles on the later HS carbs"Ah, I'd forgotten about the later developments, all my S.U. experience is with older ones so the delights of spring loaded needles, waxstats and valves in the throttle plates have eluded me. As fo HIF, I've never even seen one.Alec Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.thumb.jpeg.b15b81ef10abeea1c3039ae03c4a9f3a.jpeg)
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.