Davemate Posted May 28, 2012 Share Posted May 28, 2012 1500 --single rail o/boxthe box is out and a recon is being sorted (mike papworth)when i bought the engine and box(about two years ago) the guy said the clutch had only done a couple of hundred miles before the car failed its mot and he decided to brake the car for spares i have had no reason to dought him as all the other bits were as described if not better.yes i know the box has just let go, but then i have been giving it large and for two years the box has been very quite until a few weeks agoso looking at these pictures would/should i replace the clutch the release bearing will be relaced as on the odd ocasion it does squeek can you tell if the plate is worn by this picthe input shaft on the box has a bit of movment in it so the bearing in the box has gone popwill the spigot bearing in the flywheel need replacing if it does need replacing does it just pull out or is it flywheel off first Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted May 28, 2012 Share Posted May 28, 2012 How worn are the fingers?How loose/worn does the release bearing feel?Spigot bushes don't tend to wear to much, you would have to take it out to see how worn it is.How many miles have you done with that engine/gearbox?Do you want to put the replacement gearbox in, only to have to change the clutch in a few months time because you did not renew it now? :-/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uksnatcher Posted May 28, 2012 Share Posted May 28, 2012 You have got this far dave so take the clutch assem off and inspect the clutch components...the plate springs take a bashing, the rivits can get loose and and the clutch cover can crack, unseen unless removed plus fingers wear at the release bearing ....you know you want to really.. :PThe spigot bearing is a tough bush not a roller/ball bearing btw.For re-assembly the clutch alignment tool is a must buy too, a plastic dummy input shaft for a couple of quid ;)Dont forget the clutch release fork pivot pin and bushes, just fit new.... and the clutch cylinder push rod and pin too, a few quid, about a tenner if that, well spent while the bellhousing is out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferny Posted May 28, 2012 Share Posted May 28, 2012 Those cap bolts you see are what are holding your clutch on the flywheel. Undo (6 if I remember correctly) those - you may(should!) need to use a bar against a stud in the back of the engine to chock the flywheel. You won't know its true condition until you take it out, which is dead simple and takes about two minutes. Buy a new one and if you don't need it keep it as a spare. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted May 28, 2012 Share Posted May 28, 2012 Those cap head bolts are really annoying, they seem to round off very easily, even with a decent allen key.CheersColin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
That Man Posted May 28, 2012 Share Posted May 28, 2012 thescrapman wrote:Those cap head bolts are really annoying, they seem to round off very easily, even with a decent allen key.CheersColinThis is usually because the PO has over tightened them ??) they're only 1/4 UNF and supposed to be 10-12 lbs/ft, but not everyone has allen bits for the torque wrench.Gordon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davemate Posted May 28, 2012 Author Share Posted May 28, 2012 uksnatcher wrote:Don't forget the clutch release fork pivot pin and bushes, just fit new.... and the clutch cylinder push rod and pin too, a few quid, about a tenner if that, well spent while the bellhousing is out.Release fork,One end is held in with an old valve,I'll replace that with the correct pin.I will get two new release bearing mount things Clutch cylinder push rod and pin ?Do you mean the rod that goes from slave cylinder to the release fork,do they wear out ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uksnatcher Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 1344 wrote:Clutch cylinder push rod and pin ?Do you mean the rod that goes from slave cylinder to the release fork,do they wear out ?Parts 112516 and 109182Yes dave, mine was oval when i took it apart so yes they do wear.Your 'valve' ;D needs replacing with a modified pin 129410 and tolerance ring 129412 (modified meaning there is a head on the pin so it wont fall down/through) and 2 new bushes 129358 on the diagram.I bought the lot from James paddocks for about a tenner, give em a ring http://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/contactus.aspx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davemate Posted May 29, 2012 Author Share Posted May 29, 2012 Gaz,I did not "put a valve in place of the pivot pin " but it's been fine since I have had the engine and box and it defiantly can't fall through !Do the pins come with a "head "on them or does one have to modify it ones self ( ones getting ready for next weekends events !)I have heard stories of the pins falling out Just weld a blob on one end ? I'll be getting all my bit from the canleys boys as I am going up to mike papworth to collect my gearbox and they are just down the road Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebrookster Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 I think that the normal pins come without the head, however Chic Doig sells an uprated pin that has a decent head on it, quite cheap as well (or at least it was when I bought one a couple of years back).http://www.chicdoig.com/01592 722999I would reccomend ringing him up, Chic is an older guy whom has a healthy dis-regard for emails, and in general never answers them!! However he is fine to deal by telephone, fount of knowledge as well.Cheers,Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davemate Posted May 29, 2012 Author Share Posted May 29, 2012 One more question Rear crank oil seal mine seems to ok butThe two sump bolts that bolt to the seal housing are not in because the threads are knackerd Does the cover just pull off and push on, whilst its all apart I might as well fix it My mate helicoiled the front ally block so I presume he can do the same to this one ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uksnatcher Posted May 30, 2012 Share Posted May 30, 2012 :)1344 wrote:Gaz,I did not "put a valve in place of the pivot pin " but it's been fine since I have had the engine and box and it defiantly can't fall through !Do the pins come with a "head "on them or does one have to modify it ones self ( ones getting ready for next weekends events !)I have heard stories of the pins falling out Just weld a blob on one end ? I'll be getting all my bit from the canleys boys as I am going up to mike papworth to collect my gearbox and they are just down the road Canley boys will sort you out no probs..All will be clear when you see the modified pin, you dont have to weld or do any thing to it, the head is part of the pin, like the valve but the correct size :)You have been busy taking the flywheel off....how is the clutch, any loose bits or wear?? ( sorry i cant comment on the rear seal, didnt go that far with mine ;) ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davemate Posted May 30, 2012 Author Share Posted May 30, 2012 Clutch is fine :)I got a secondhand rear oil seal cover from mr papworth He also sorted out a replacment bellhousing centre as my one was knackedI have all the bit's required to put it all back together.I am just going to have an hours sleep then I'll make a start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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