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Poly Bonnet Cones


Spitfire2500

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Spitfire4 wrote:
Hmmm, correctly positioned and adjusted they last for years.

I guess Quillers haven't worked that out and have fixed the consequence of a problem rather than look at the cause of the problem.


Sadly not totally true.

A couple of years ago there seemed to be 2 variants about. 1 made with soft rubber (you can dig a nail into them and it marks it) and hard rubber ones. The latter seem to be infinately better, and infinately rarer.

The soft ones are rubbish.

Cheers

Colin

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thescrapman wrote:

Sadly not totally true...1 made with soft rubber (you can dig a nail into them and it marks it) and hard rubber ones. The latter seem to be infinately better, and infinately rarer.

The soft ones are rubbish.


Yes -- the soft ones are utter crap. This one was put on the car in October last year and has done circa 1200 miles  :(



The other one isn't much better. At the time Chic (Doig) could only supply soft ones, and he did warn they mightn't last long. I'd be more than happy with the hard rubber ones if I could get them.

When I got the car in 1985 it still had the original cones fitted by the factory and they lasted for at least another four or five years (it's a '78 car)...

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I've had the same issue. Old cones broke so I eventually bought and fitted new ones which died after a year so fitted another set which died after a few months. The bonnet and cones were correctly adjusted.

I'm going to try a thick rubber on the bulkhead and see how well it clamps down onto that as I'm fed up. It may not work as well as a good cone but will last longer. Don't forget that every time a cone fails a fairy dies and your lights change their adjustment.

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I had an idea (!) a while ago of using one of those mini cotton-reel exhaust mounts with a nylon or similar cone screwed on one of the studs, the idea being that the rubber (good at absorbing the vibrations) is still there, but not dirctly in contact with the locating bits. May actually get round to it sometime......must look on fleabay for some nylon bar!

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I think there might be another reason why they fail.  The proper original ones have a wide flat head on the threaded stem, almost the same diameter as the base of the cone, moulded into the base of the cone.  This gives plenty of support for the rubber and a nice big surface to bond to.  The modern replacements I've seen are moulded onto a bolt head which does give enough support.

You can sort this by putting a washer under the base of the cone and locking in place with a nut.  This washer does the support instead.  My current pair, supported in this way have been on about 10 years - and that's not because my bonnet fits so beautifully.........

If the polybush ones are also moulded over the head of a bolt they won't last much longer than the rubber ones IMO.

Nick

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AS Bob said, I made some up from an old Screw driver handle,

the really good hard type, very easy to doo too

Think Nicks got it right, in  that the old ones were better stuff, and had a bigger base,

But to get bonnets fitting really good, and ..flush.. along the top , then they have to have

..side loading.. on them,  to pull the bonnet ..flat..  and this is what really kills the soft ones,

they go out of shape, and a week after you got the bonnet right, its ..moved again.. :-/ :-/

a few of the Ladds saw mine, and seemed to be impressed with them

If you no got a lathe, then they can bee ..coned.. by using a file/drill,  surform / drill

you need a decent long bolt, and drill thru the cut off handle, then  tap it , put  it on to bolt, so that it scews against the ..head.., put a thick washer on the top, and a ..lock nut.. and then turn it doon,.

this way, you got a steel bolt all the way thru, so it wont distort much, and will no snap off either

the rest of the bolt,  will go into the adjuster ,on the bonnet

really worth while, if your bonnets ..up in the middle..,

this is the only pic i can find with the cones on, , zoom in for a better loook



regards Marcus

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