Steveant1 Posted April 27 Share Posted April 27 Hi I’m having trouble with the studs on my triumph herald 1964 . 2of the studs have broken off and well rusted in. What is the best way to get them out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted April 27 Share Posted April 27 I would have said heat is the only way left now. A beefy blow torch to heat the flange to expand it and then try turning the remains of the studs... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steveant1 Posted April 27 Author Share Posted April 27 3 hours ago, glang said: I would have said heat is the only way left now. A beefy blow torch to heat the flange to expand it and then try turning the remains of the studs... Hi glamg. I have tried to heat it up but I only have a hand held one it won’t glow red. I may have to drill it out and hope for the best. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted April 27 Share Posted April 27 2 hours ago, Steveant1 said: Hi glamg. I have tried to heat it up but I only have a hand held one it won’t glow red. I may have to drill it out and hope for the best. Supporting the back of the flange, and a fair wack of a hammer can shock the threads free, along with penetrating oil, heat etc. If you have a welder, welding a nut on the broken stun usually works. If not drilling out is OK. I have owned more than one Triumph that has used nuts and bolts for attaching the downpipe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steveant1 Posted April 27 Author Share Posted April 27 Hi Clive. I have tried to hit it with a hammer but no go. I have a welder but it seems very rusted in so I think it would just snap off again I was hoping for something else on the market that might work but have to resort to the old fashioned way drilling it out. I’ll let you know how it goes. Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted April 27 Share Posted April 27 5 hours ago, Steveant1 said: Hi glamg. I have tried to heat it up but I only have a hand held one it won’t glow red. I may have to drill it out and hope for the best. Yes I was thinking more heat the flange not the stud so the hole expands. Course this needs a fair bit of heat although dont need cherry red... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted April 27 Share Posted April 27 Looks to me that you gave plenty of stud left to weld a nut to. That, if you leave the welder on as long as possible will heat the study. Then release agent. NOT WD40! I'm impressed by "Innotec". Several cycles, even build up a rim around the stud with clay/ plasticine to make a pool or rhe stud. Leave it, let it soak in. Then "eeeeeease" the stud, work it to and fro until it moves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric JS Posted April 27 Share Posted April 27 Hi - there are lots of ways to remove studs - every mechanic has their own pet way to do it, raw heat is the oldest way to do it but the latest way is heat from an induction coil, you can buy them but I don’t know how much they are but they are very good: Without heat, the safe way: Get yourself an old washing up bowl or a can big enough to get the studs and head in it, place the manifold into the bowl/can with the broken studs on the bottom then soak the manifold flange and studs literally sat deep in the diesel - then let it sit for a day. Day two: As you still have the studs sitting outside of the manifold - you need a good pair of mole grips - lock them on each stud as tight as you can then try to tighten up the stud just enough to move the stud a mill or two, if they move then try undoing them a little then tighten them again repeating back and forwards till they start to undo properly, if the won’t undo give the diesel a second go. Then repeat the process until they come out. If you have tried diesel and lots of heat, you could try freezing sprays but for me the only way is a big hammer and easy outs, if they don’t get the studs out, your only way around broken studs is sadly drilling them out. Ric 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Girling Posted April 27 Share Posted April 27 Spark erosion? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steveant1 Posted April 29 Author Share Posted April 29 On 27/04/2024 at 20:58, Adrian Girling said: Spark erosion? Not heard of spark erosion. ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steveant1 Posted April 29 Author Share Posted April 29 I did try welding the nut but just rounded it off. Didn’t try diesel don’t like the smell. So I just cut it level and drilled them out. And taped a new thread in. Thanks again for your advice got some new ideas that I’ve not heard of before 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
standardthread Posted May 1 Share Posted May 1 Heat and a stud extractor. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steveant1 Posted May 1 Author Share Posted May 1 4 hours ago, standardthread said: Heat and a stud extractor. I’ve already drilled them out just waiting for the tap as I have a set but sods law I can’t find a tap I need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric JS Posted May 1 Share Posted May 1 Why bother with tapping out the stud holes, it’s only a flange on a exhaust pipe - just drill out the holes with a new drill, then buy 3 stainless steel bolts, nuts, flat washers and spring washers - job done. Ric 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
standardthread Posted Tuesday at 15:03 Share Posted Tuesday at 15:03 Tap them out, then use S/S studs. Bolts mean you have to put flats on the manifold. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steveant1 Posted Tuesday at 17:34 Author Share Posted Tuesday at 17:34 I have done it now I was going to put it on today went to replace the pipe behind the manifold then I see this I thought it was oil at first head gasket but the water is clear then when it dried out it looks like cork so I’m hoping that it is rad weld . Just need to get the nuts and olive as the pip didn’t come with them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted Tuesday at 20:15 Share Posted Tuesday at 20:15 Those pipes often get full of crud. I suspect it is just rust stuff from the years when the car probably wasn't well lokked after. So a good engine and rad flush (including the heater) is essential. Undo every rubber hose, poke a garden hose up every one, then the other way round. And do the block drain, often gunked up too (drain is under the manifolds towards the rear of the engine, poke wire and stuff in there, press the end of the hose against it, several times) Heaters usually full of silt, flush that both ways a few times until clear. Then chuck some radflush or whatever in the system, leave for a few drives, drain, flush through with clean water, then fill with 30% blue antifreeze. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steveant1 Posted Tuesday at 20:58 Author Share Posted Tuesday at 20:58 Thanks Clive. I did wonder what the bolt was for at the back when I had the manifold off near the pipe I will give it a good flush. I was surprised that water got through the pipe that begin with. A little job getting bigger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wendy Dawes Posted 18 hours ago Share Posted 18 hours ago They usually do, I’ve nicknamed my car two times Mabel, almost all I’ve done had to be done twice - all adds to the ‘fun’ lol 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steveant1 Posted 15 hours ago Author Share Posted 15 hours ago Yes I know what you mean Wendy. It’s just working out what to do next as there is so much to do. I still have the sunroof to finish off the rubbers on the side windows the dashboard carpet and so on. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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