32valves Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 I've been meaning to re-wire the headlights on the Sprint for ages and finally got round to it today. I've used the existing supply from the column switches to power the relay coils (1 for dip, 1 for main) and run a new feed from the battery +ve through the relays and into the supply wiring for the dip and main circuits. I intend to fit some in-line fuses in the relay-to-headlamp part of the circuit. Is this the best place for them ?Fitted some nice, new headlamp bowls and extra bright halogen bulbs too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 If you are going fuse headlights, fuse the left and right separately to minimise the chance of being left in the dark by one blowing bulb popping the fuse......Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dicky Blighter Posted September 10, 2012 Share Posted September 10, 2012 I used fused relays - but always best to have fuse as far 'up-stream' as possible (i.e. on feed to relay) and as close to power source as possible, that way any problems will always blow fuse instead of a component. In this case if for any reason the relay caused a problem your wiring to the relay from battery would not be protected and would result in lots of smoke and melted wiring (or burnt out car!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRAJ Posted September 10, 2012 Share Posted September 10, 2012 Dicky_Blighter wrote:I used fused relays - but always best to have fuse as far 'up-stream' as possible (i.e. on feed to relay) and as close to power source as possible, that way any problems will always blow fuse instead of a component. In this case if for any reason the relay caused a problem your wiring to the relay from battery would not be protected and would result in lots of smoke and melted wiring (or burnt out car!) I used fused relays on both of our cars, very neat solution and all in one place.Colin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted September 10, 2012 Share Posted September 10, 2012 Ideally you want a big fuse to cover the all the lights close to the battery and then smaller fuses near the relays?Seems like the best solution. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted September 10, 2012 Share Posted September 10, 2012 Hello James,"Ideally you want a big fuse to cover the all the lights close to the battery and then smaller fuses near the relays?"That is ideal, and a Nick mentioned you want to have the least disruption, so the primary fuse needs to be sized large enough that it doesn't blow if a lamp circuit earths, only the lamp fuse should blow . This is called discrimination in electrical engineering terms, main fuse at say 2 times total load and lamp fuses at 1.5 times lamp load.Alec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
32valves Posted September 12, 2012 Author Share Posted September 12, 2012 Thanks for all the replies. The lights are 2x 60W dip and 4x 55W main. I made up a box with two 40 amp relays and a small blade fuse box. I've provided a separate +ve feed from the battery for the dip and main circuits. Each runs through a 30 amp fuse to one of the relays. The return to the lights runs through a 15 amp fuse, one for each of the three light circuits (1 dip and 2 main). I've also used tell-tale fuses throughout to aid fault diagnosis. Everything works perfectly apart from a couple of connections that need tightening. So, just a final bit of tidying to do with the wiring then some adjustment of the head lamp beams and it's job done ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
partsaver Posted September 12, 2012 Share Posted September 12, 2012 I'm in the process of wiring up the 1500HL with a new fuse and relay box,the sidelights are fused as one but the headdlights will be seperatly fused and relayed so unless there is total blackout there will be at least one working drivers side light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velocita Rosso Posted September 13, 2012 Share Posted September 13, 2012 Carl....get rid of the candles an slap some 100w lamps in for the RBRR.... when lit you`d see Nigel at Sugar Loaf from Chester ;DThere was a a chap who chopped me up up on the M6 in 2010 and nearly took me out ,I slapped all six ( 520 amps ??) ) lamps on and I think I singed the back of his neck.... ;DHe moved out the way though.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
32valves Posted September 13, 2012 Author Share Posted September 13, 2012 ;D ;D ;DWell Mike, I'd definitely have to upgrade part of the loom to do that so a job for another day. The hard work is done though. For now I'm using Osram Nightbreakers throughout. These, and the new head lamps, have resulted in a big improvement in illumination (bearing in mind that I had standard halogens already).Judging by other threads about fitting improved lighting I reckon it will be possible to follow the RBRR progress from space ;D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drofgum Posted September 14, 2012 Share Posted September 14, 2012 michael_charlton wrote:Carl....get rid of the candles an slap some 100w lamps in for the RBRR.... when lit you`d see Nigel at Sugar Loaf from Chester ;DThere was a a chap who chopped me up up on the M6 in 2010 and nearly took me out ,I slapped all six ( 520 amps ??) ) lamps on and I think I singed the back of his neck.... ;DHe moved out the way though.... 520 amps!!! What do you use to switch the headlamps? Starter relays? ;D Cheers, Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velocita Rosso Posted September 14, 2012 Share Posted September 14, 2012 1317 wrote: 520 amps!!! What do you use to switch the headlamps? Starter relays? ;D Cheers, PaulOops..... 520 watt.....(dizzy) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted September 14, 2012 Share Posted September 14, 2012 Hello VR, that's 43 amps at a nominal 12volts, and worse about 3/4 of a horse power you're losing there.Alec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted September 14, 2012 Share Posted September 14, 2012 I had 600W on one RBRR :)4 x 100W standard lights and an additional 2 x 100W spots.I think.Hmmmm feeling I am missing out on all this prep now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velocita Rosso Posted September 14, 2012 Share Posted September 14, 2012 piman wrote:Hello VR, that's 43 amps at a nominal 12volts, and worse about 3/4 of a horse power you're losing there.AlecUprated 65 amp alternator .................and another 97 hp to play with ;D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted September 15, 2012 Share Posted September 15, 2012 Hello V.R.,have you thought of fitting KERS, that alternator's worth another HP or two.Alec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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