DIY Halogens?

[Tom2000]

Is it possible to make your own halogen conversion kit? wiring and relays? Obviously it can be done, but what parts are required.. if someone has or knows how to do this could they possibly tell me?

I've got alot of spare time and not alot of cash and love getting my hands on little projects like this.. and would quite happily write it up properly at the end..

[James]

There is no such thing as a halogen conversion kit - just put in some halogen type lens units and away you go - you don't even need to change to relays - they take no more power (unless uprated) than a standard bulb.

[James]

Standard halogens will not need relays - they draw the same power as standard sealed beam.

[mikeyb]

maybe not - but given the age and fragility of our coloumn stalks, not to mention the expense of replacement, at least on the main they are a good idea!

[ferny]

No relays - one year and counting. Although I've now tempted fate. But then, it is a bit cold out. The extra warms froma  fire might be welcomed.

[Clive]

don't understand the obsession with messing about with relays. People sticking those NASTY blue crimp connectors and nasty cheap relays cause more problems than they solve. If you use the same power bulbs, as james says, no relays required. If you want higher powered bulbs, firstly buy DECENT bulbs (not cheapo unbranded tat) and decent units, not the normal £30-40 stuff. You really need cicie of similar. Budget £150 for a pair all in.
My solution was a pair of the wipac freeform units, osram siverstar bulbs, std power. Took about 20 mins to fit, mainly to remove the cowls on the spit. In the dark!
Also have a pair of 55w mini spots, will fit sometime. But the halogens are MUCH better.

[neilnaz]

I do think that relays are a good idea. I have just fitted some to my car as I intend to fit some extra mini halogens in addition to the main beam. The car had been running without relays and on the existing wiring for quite some time with no problems. Having added to the existing wiring with 17A 12v feeds to the relays and using the old wiring to trigger the relays my halogen headlamps appear brighter than they were. This might just be my perception but voltage drops through the switchgear and existing wiring would account for differences in brightness (if they exist).

I have used new bullet connectors and not hacked into the existing wiring so you don't need to mess about with those horrible blue things. The installation looks neat, the feeds are fused and weather prrof and I can now add the mini halogens to the main beam circuit without any fear of overloading the existing wiring as it is being used purely to trigger the relays.

How are you going to add the mini halogens to your car? I have no doubt that keeping the existing wiring and using it is fine for standard halogen bulbs but replacing with higher output bulbs could raise the current requirement especially as you are adding extra lights.

I am just trying to figure how I will mount the mini halogens to my car. I am going to use the number plate holes under the bumper to attach a bar/rail and bend it so it runs invisibly under the bumper so the lights sit just inside the under-riders but have yet to source some aluminium bar/rail for the purpose. I reckon a trip to B&Q is on the cards!

Cheers, Neil

[ferny]

If I were to fit two driving lamps to my car with silly spec bulbs, what size lamp would I be looking for? Do they just take H4 bulbs or similar like my current lights? I've never fiddled with them so have no idea. And what about the rectangular fog lights? What bulbs would they take?

[Tom2000]

neilnaz wrote:

I do think that relays are a good idea. I have just fitted some to my car as I intend to fit some extra mini halogens in addition to the main beam. The car had been running without relays and on the existing wiring for quite some time with no problems. Having added to the existing wiring with 17A 12v feeds to the relays and using the old wiring to trigger the relays my halogen headlamps appear brighter than they were. This might just be my perception but voltage drops through the switchgear and existing wiring would account for differences in brightness (if they exist).

I have used new bullet connectors and not hacked into the existing wiring so you don't need to mess about with those horrible blue things. The installation looks neat, the feeds are fused and weather prrof and I can now add the mini halogens to the main beam circuit without any fear of overloading the existing wiring as it is being used purely to trigger the relays.

How are you going to add the mini halogens to your car? I have no doubt that keeping the existing wiring and using it is fine for standard halogen bulbs but replacing with higher output bulbs could raise the current requirement especially as you are adding extra lights.

I am just trying to figure how I will mount the mini halogens to my car. I am going to use the number plate holes under the bumper to attach a bar/rail and bend it so it runs invisibly under the bumper so the lights sit just inside the under-riders but have yet to source some aluminium bar/rail for the purpose. I reckon a trip to B&Q is on the cards!

Cheers, Neil

One I would be really interested and appreciative of any diagrams / description on your relay / wiring as I too have wipac fog lamps that I want t put on..

As for how you will mount them here's your solution: http://www.ocoop.com/proddetail.asp?prod=SL%2DBBK&cat=14

Got them on mine, work a treat.. hope this helps

[mark spit]

I was loosing 3-4 Volts through the original wiring and switches, only 8-9 Volts at the headlamps, that's a quarter lost!

Use the relays and correctly coloured wiring and fuse directly off the battery.  Vehicle wiring products do everything, I think I got all the wires and relays for under £20.

Yours
Mark

[Clive]

OK, so I will need relays for the spots, I know that. Its just that I am really against adding stuff just because it is there.
Yes, it is worth checking all connections etc are good, with a multimeter, before shelling out. The existing lights may be OK, just the wiring to them may need sorting.
Again, the worst offenders are where previous owners have cut the loom about, used crimp connections or worse connector blocks. That is all a problem waiting to fester.
If the wiring is duff, relays may help, but find the problem first!

[Clive]

Oh, Ferny, most spots etc seem to take H3 bulbs. The mini lights I got are about 4"X2", tiny! Don't think they will be any good for more than the 55w bulbs though, they will get hot enough as it is.

[ferny]

I did a quick search and saw most spot bulbs were H3. Leaves me wondering what to do. I'd like two driving lamps which I can switch on and off when I like and to have silly-bright bulbs in them. I'll keep an eye out on eBay.

[mark spit]

cliftyhanger wrote:

If the wiring is duff, relays may help, but find the problem first!

I agree. On my car however the wiring is old and had become blackened.  Fitting the relays and using stripped back to good original wiring to trigger them was a lot easier than replacing all the wiring right through the headlights circuit, and possibly the dash and column switch as well. The original stuff is fine at the low amps for triggering the relays, and the heads are now protected by their own fuses.

Yours
Mark

[neilnaz]

This is a reply to Tom2000:

I ran 2 12v feeds from the battery (nut on the solenoid) via in-line fuses to 12v relays that are attached to the inside of my radiator valances. I cut the existing feeds near here (close to the front cross-member) for dipped and main beam and added in 2 short extensions (crimped and shrouded bullet connectors) to each wire to reach the relays. One triggers main beam relay and one triggers dipped beam relay.

I then re-routed the existing wires that connect to the main and dipped headlamps so the existing wiring is used to trigger and, from the relays, feed the lamps. I cut the wires so as to leave enough existing wire so that shrouded spade crimp connectors could be put on and connect to the relay outputs.

The benefit from my point of view is that the wiring to each headlamp is re-used. The wiring is fairly neat as I tied the new 12v feeds to the existing cable run that runs just inside of my engine valance on the passenger side and wrapped the lot in cable wrap. The current is being carried by new 17A wire to the relays and the existing old wire to the headlamp units. The headlamp switch and stalks and associated wiring are carrying very little current just triggering and holding the relays. I can also add the new lamps without concerning myself about complex wiring. I just need to mount the lamps and connect to the main beam relay output.

The headlamps do put out more light I am sure and I do not risk burning out anything behind the dash. (I remember this happening to my first Spitfire in the dark on a country road many years ago and that had standard lights just naff wiring and a dodgy switch.

I haven't got a circuit diagram but I think I have explained it all. I used 2 kits from Ring lighting. They were about £12 each and contained relays, fuses, wiring, and such. I did purchase some extra wire for about £3. So it isn't expensive.

Tom do those brackets work on a Spitfire 1500 bumper? I can't see how they attach.

Regards, Neil

[Tom2000]

I brought them, then twisted the metal 180 degrees so that they can hold the lamps on via the front of the bonnet as obviously you cannot put them inbetween the bonnet and the bumper as there is not enough room.

[thebrookster]

I have just upgraded the halogens in my car to 90w/130w (I do a lot of country driving, and normal halogens were barely lighting the road. I would advise relays if you are trying to upgrade your lights, as I discovered with my wiring that I had a 2 volt drop at the bulbs on standard wiring. It also means that if you ever wish to use high powered bulbs then the setup is already there, and it really does not cost that much to do (I think that I have spent approx £30-40 on my setup). I would also reccomend seperate fuses for each side, that way if a fuse decides to blow you will have one headlight still working.

I have to confess that I have never liked running the full wack through my switches, cause a lot of modern switches are designed to work with relays, and cannot take the power. I have fried several switches in the past, so now always use relays.

Also, bear in mind that it may not cost you as much, I have now basically run two seperate circuits for my headlamps, so have used twice as much cabling as you normally would. And just out of interest, does anyone know if it is possible to purchase the fitting connector that fits on the bulb (the funny three-sided thing)? I have modded mine to fit the higher power wiring right to the bulb, and thought at the time it would have been far easier just to use a new connector. By that time though I was half way through the job ;D

[James]

I'm not so sure about this dual fuse thing - even though my system uses it as well...

They're not hooked up in series - they're in parallel... so if one bulb blows it won't take out the other one.

Bulbs are nothing more than light emitting fuses really!