Dannyb Posted February 19, 2019 Author Share Posted February 19, 2019 Quoted from sparky_spit- No sign of the woodruff key? It has to be somewhere. John O'Groats ? 🙂.... It maybe on the garage floor. Probably come across it at some stage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannyb Posted February 21, 2019 Author Share Posted February 21, 2019 New standard thrust washers in and sump back on. Also took the opportunity to take out the front alloy sealing block as I knew the thread had gone on the middle blind hole that the timing cover screws too. I have re-tapped with M8. Next will be to determine TDC and then set the valve timing with valves 7&8 at balance point. Not sure if this can be done with a dial gauge in the plug hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparky_spit Posted February 23, 2019 Share Posted February 23, 2019 No, you can't reliably do it with a dial gauge down the plug hole; the angle is too obtuse. What you can do is to make a stop out of an old sparkplug with a bit of steel rod epoxied into it, that you can screw into the spark plug hole and stops the piston reaching TDC. Rotate the engine in one direction until the piston hits your stop. Then mark the position of the pulley's notch onto the timing cover, or a piece of card fixed to the cover. Rotate the engine in the opposite direction until the piston stops again and then mark the pulley notch position again. TDC is midway between the two marks. Or you can do it the other way round, using a fixed point on the timing cover and using two marks on the pulley, with TDC being midway between them. Exactly the same result, but use whichever suits your normal method of showing TDC and the static timing mark, etc. Hope it all goes well! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannyb Posted February 24, 2019 Author Share Posted February 24, 2019 Thanks Michael, I will do that, possibly in the week if I get a chance as there's a lot going on at the moment. I will report back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted February 25, 2019 Share Posted February 25, 2019 Quoted from Dannyb- New standard thrust washers in and sump back on. Also took the opportunity to take out the front alloy sealing block as I knew the thread had gone on the middle blind hole that the timing cover screws too. I have re-tapped with M8. Next will be to determine TDC and then set the valve timing with valves 7&8 at balance point. Not sure if this can be done with a dial gauge in the plug hole. Dont want to be the bearer of bad news Danny but Im not sure your new M8 thread is going to be up to much. By my calculations the major diameter of the original 5/16 UNF thread was about 8mm so the new tapping wont have improved things much. Did you mean M10 which is what I used for the two sump bolts and am about to try for the timing cover. It means you have to use Allen cap head setscrews as the heads on normal hex ones are too big but does allow you to get plenty of tightening torque.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WIMPUS Posted February 26, 2019 Share Posted February 26, 2019 Quoted from glang- Quoted from Dannyb- New standard thrust washers in and sump back on. Also took the opportunity to take out the front alloy sealing block as I knew the thread had gone on the middle blind hole that the timing cover screws too. I have re-tapped with M8. Next will be to determine TDC and then set the valve timing with valves 7&8 at balance point. Not sure if this can be done with a dial gauge in the plug hole. Dont want to be the bearer of bad news Danny but Im not sure your new M8 thread is going to be up to much. By my calculations the major diameter of the original 5/16 UNF thread was about 8mm so the new tapping wont have improved things much. Did you mean M10 which is what I used for the two sump bolts and am about to try for the timing cover. It means you have to use Allen cap head setscrews as the heads on normal hex ones are too big but does allow you to get plenty of tightening torque.... On my car i did re-tap a few damaged 5/16 threads to M8 with no problems for years now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted February 26, 2019 Share Posted February 26, 2019 It might depend on how badly damaged the thread is and if its in steel or aluminium Wim.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannyb Posted February 26, 2019 Author Share Posted February 26, 2019 It's in the alloy sealing block at the front where the bottom timing cover screw goes. I ran an M8 tap in the hole and the m8 bolt tightens ok to the correct torque. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted February 26, 2019 Share Posted February 26, 2019 I think youve been very lucky Danny and recommend that you dont ever undo it! I wish I was as fortunate but mine is well and truly stripped and M8 wont do it and as M9 isnt available its going to have to be M10.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannyb Posted February 26, 2019 Author Share Posted February 26, 2019 This afternoon I set up the valves with 8&9 on the rock. I also made a piston stop and the TDC on the timing cover is spot on. I have also decided to buy a new duplex (double sprocket) from Paddocks as the old one is a bit worn on the slot for the woodruff key. Does anyone know what way it should be fitted as I can't remember when taking the old one off. Is it with the tapered end facing towards the block ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannyb Posted February 26, 2019 Author Share Posted February 26, 2019 Is this looking at the front or rear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WIMPUS Posted February 27, 2019 Share Posted February 27, 2019 Quoted from Dannyb- Is this looking at the front or rear. Thats the rear / to engine side Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannyb Posted February 27, 2019 Author Share Posted February 27, 2019 Thanks Wim. Now just waiting for the new one to arrive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannyb Posted March 4, 2019 Author Share Posted March 4, 2019 All back together now. Started on second turn and ticks over and sounds good. But the weather is crap so will have to wait for a dry day to road test. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannyb Posted March 6, 2019 Author Share Posted March 6, 2019 Took it out for a run this afternoon but not for long as soon as I opened it up it lost power. I suspect fuel starvation and the float needle valves need cleaning where it's been standing for five months. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guppy916 Posted March 6, 2019 Share Posted March 6, 2019 Gutted ! I'd check the fuel filter first Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.thumb.jpeg.b15b81ef10abeea1c3039ae03c4a9f3a.jpeg)
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.