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2000 diff limitations?


yorkshire_spam

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Remember that the torque the diff sees is the engine torque multiplied by the gear ratio.

So, considering my previous PI, which made 160 lb/ft at the flywheel, in first gear the diff would see 160 x 3.28 = 524.8 lb/ft.  The driveshafts have it worse, as for them it is multiplied by the diff ratio too, so for the PI, 525 x 3.45 = 1810 lb/ft.  All this without factoring shock loads due to things like dropping the clutch at 5000 rpm, loss and sudden regain of traction and similar.

Goes some way to explaining why things last much better if you don't hoof it too hard in the lowest gears.  Some modern cars actual have the torque limited by the engine ECU when in the lower gears.

Nick

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Hey Encom, have you got more pics of that install? It's on my list of things to do to mine. I'd like to see how you go about attaching the diff to the sub frame.
Also has anyone used a subaru r160 diff? They are cheap, plentiful and much newer.
Sorry about the thread hijack
Josh

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Quoted from Nick Jones
Doubt the R160 is any stronger than the original Triumph offering and the tallest ratio is 3.54.  R200 is a much better choice.  

Alternatively look at BMW E30 and E36 compact where the rear clip can be transferred complete.

Nick


Just had an R160 apart for a bit of ratio-changing.
It turns out some have 4 sunwheels in the diff (the Viscous LSD with stepped splines on one shaft) and the later ones have 2 sunwheels.
The diff. and CWP are all pretty meaty, though I suspect it may have its limit around 250bhp (more than enough for me!)

But yes, for the effort and if enough space, use the bigger version.

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I have a Subaru R160 in my Stag.  It may be newer but the design goes way back to the Datsun 1600 510.  There is a guy who races a Datsun 510 in the States with an output of a tad over 200bhp.  If a Subaru R160 holds up with that during 10 years of harsh use on the race track, then it will be fine for my Stag.  Ratio is 3.70:1 which is the same as the Stag original diff.  The LSD types are more hard to come by and really only available in special edition models such as the Impreza WRX.  Mine was from a Forrester.
The R160 didn't just slot in though, I had to whack a dent in the rear crossmember box section where the rear diff mounting studs go through as the Subaru diff breather would foul there.
If I need a new diff, I would consider the R200 as I am expecting a power increase once EFI is fitted.

I have some photos on Flickr.  Just need to get the proper link when I get home.  Give me a few hours.....  The mounting to the subframe is better than original as there is no separate nose piece that can break off.

Julian

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Thanks for the info guys.
Nick I was most keen on the R160 because they are so plentiful and can easily be got with a proper LSD, eg WRX. I hear you about the strength, but I more want this diff as a cheaper way of going LSD. Plus if I break it another one is only 300 bucks or so. The beemer diffs are much less common here and dearer, plus look to me to be a lot harder to install.
Cheers

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Quoted from josh18
Yeah that was what I was thinking too. Although Rex's are 4x4 so the power the diff sees is half there would be plenty around with 400 odd HP so yeah I reckon 200 in RWD should be OK.
Cheers


Not always - some Imprezas are 50:50, but some are 60:40 or even 45:55... Unless you know what the diff came from you may not know what it originally had... however, even so I agree, that if the Diff can put up with the abuse these cars tend to get, then they'll live in a Triumph quite happily.

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The R160 is a great diff, I've run them in my Vitesse's and the Subaru guys thrash the nuts off them. It's only with some serious horse power do you actually need the likes of the R180 or R200.

I just happen to have a R200 longnose kicking around at the time, and I'm running a RB25 in the car (non-turbo) so shouldn't stress the diff at all. With Triumph power levels it would be a walk in the park.

The other point with the R160, is the early ones are come from the likes of the Datsun 180B; hence with the use of the Tri-Dat UJ's and the 180B half shafts its a pretty straight forward swap.

Anyway here are some pic's of a R200 longnose in the saloon K Frame;

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