Greeks Posted August 15, 2006 Share Posted August 15, 2006 How much play is 'acceptable' in saloon front wheel bearings? ... and anticipating, has anyone got the bearing number so i can order from a bearing supplier before taking them out?cheersG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted August 16, 2006 Share Posted August 16, 2006 Have you tried adjusting them?ducks quickly to avoid abuse.............. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greeks Posted August 16, 2006 Author Share Posted August 16, 2006 :-/ yeah, I tried to fit some extra ball bearings in but there wasn't quite enough space ;D... of course, they're done on the old hand tight and back a bit advice, and there's a small amount of play :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted August 16, 2006 Share Posted August 16, 2006 A "small" amount of play is acceptable; hard to quantify but I would say 1/32" - 1/16" movement. I think once it gets to 1/16" - 1/8" the mot guys start complaining. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greeks Posted August 16, 2006 Author Share Posted August 16, 2006 That's one of the problems with not having an MOT in this part of the world ;)Actually, getting my wheels balanced (well they're 'S' alloys!) the guy mentioned it but I didn't know if it was like the GT6 where a certain amount of play is expected in roto. bearings. I think i'll just change 'em :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted August 16, 2006 Share Posted August 16, 2006 I usually nip them up until no play can be felt at the wheel edge and then back off until just a hint of play can be felt and then pop the split pin in. You will probably need a tool (rather than just fingers) for this, but the centre nut is in no way 'tight'.If you cannot get to the no-play-at-all state it suggests the bearings are slack on the stub axle (worn stub axle usually) and this will need attention.Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greeks Posted August 16, 2006 Author Share Posted August 16, 2006 Cheers, Nick ... i'm probably being a bit soft (I usually have a habit of overtightening and breaking stuff!) and can actually nip them up a bit more.Gave the car an absolute beasting yesterday on some seriously good roads in New South Wales near Nimbin - had a 'race' with a fairly new V6 Mitsubishi Saloon and now the car is running well he couldn't get away at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greeks Posted September 19, 2006 Author Share Posted September 19, 2006 Hmmm, had to resurrect this thread, cos on Sunday I had the unenviable experience of smoking wheels. Coming down the local 'mountain' roads 3 ambulances (ambuli?) were going past us in the other direction to collect broken bikers and we became aware of a nasty smell. I stopped and there was smoke coming from both front wheels! I backed off the bearings one notch, so there is a little play.Would this be a case of knackered bearings, overtightening or stub axle wear? Grease is correct for wheel bearings.Most annoying is that I don't have the bench and equipment to change the bearings myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shenderson Posted September 19, 2006 Share Posted September 19, 2006 With new bearings you want a little bit of pre-load i.e. tighten the nut by hand and then a little bit more to fit the split pin. This beds in the bearings; don't do it with used bearings though because it will knacker them. Instead of tightening them from "hand tight" to fit the split pin, undo the nut to the first position at which the pin will fit. When you shake the wheel you should be able to hear movement wheel rather than feel it.Surely smoking front wheels is caused by overheated brakes?Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greeks Posted September 20, 2006 Author Share Posted September 20, 2006 Cheers shenderson.The brakes were working absolutely fine at the time, which is why I discounted them ... there's enough meat left on the pads and discs too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 Graham,I'd have thought you'd have to do them pretty tight to get that much heat!I'm inclined to wonder how hard you were using the brakes...?!Would be wise to dismantle and inspect, if not renew after an incident like that. No special tools required - I've done Herald ones on a London pavement in the past. Ideally a brass drift is used to tap the outer races out of and back into the hub, but an old screwdriver will suffice if used with subtlety..........Do inspect the stub axles for signs that the bearings have been spinning on them and if they are worn at this point (usually inner end suffers), stub axles should be changed - which is a pain as they usually want to stay in the upright!I would always leave a hint of play, even on new bearings, but you might have to re-adjust after a couple of thousand miles settling time.Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 you would have to have had them bloody tight to get them to smoke! what temp does grease burn? cheap politically correct brake pads do tend to fade quicker than the old full fat ones sure it wasnt that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greeks Posted September 20, 2006 Author Share Posted September 20, 2006 Thanks guys.Nick - I was on the way down some steep bendy roads ... but wasn't giving it a real go to be honest ??) I was under the impression I'd need a tube to get the bearings back on square ... but perhaps I'll give it a go with a drift. Subtlety is not my forte though ::) Got spare axles on a car (400km away) in fact there is a bearing press in the shed that car is in ... so i'll do it next time i'm there (in-laws) then if they're knackered I can do the whole job in one go.AJP - I wonder if it was excess bearing grease leaking out that made contact with the discs? The brakes didn't feel bad at all ??) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted September 21, 2006 Share Posted September 21, 2006 could be what sort of grade grease have you been using? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted September 21, 2006 Share Posted September 21, 2006 I doubt it though-honestly greeks bearings are not that dificult just be carefull to knock them in square use a decent lump of wood as "roadside bench" and another to tap them in or take the hubs off and take them to a garage they should be able to fit new bearings in 20mins max Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greeks Posted September 21, 2006 Author Share Posted September 21, 2006 I'm using Castrol HTB (high temp) ... recommended for wheel bearings!Bloody good idea just taking the hubs along to the garage.... I've had grief getting brake pads back open before when I've taken calipers off. What do people use? I'm thinking of using a door wedge in future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted September 21, 2006 Share Posted September 21, 2006 Pry-bar? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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