Fascia removal

[Dratno]

Hi

I am currently trying to remove the fascia on my 13/60 to replace the veneer.

A few queries if anybody can advise please.

On the fuel and temperature gauge, there are two electrical connections that I cannot remove, they seem to be ‘sprung’ but no obvious way of removing them. Looking from behind the dash, the wire to the left hand connection is green/ purple, the right hand connection is blue/white - neither of these colour combos seem to relate to the Haynes manual.

Does the bezel of that gauge (and the speedo bezel) have to be unscrewed or does the whole assembly come forwards through the fascia? Neither seems to want to happen, but I do not want to force anything until the correct method is known.

One last question - the knobs on the central five controls have push pins on their sides, but even when the pins are fully(?) pushed in, the knobs cannot be pulled away - again, not wanting to force anything until I know the correct method.

Grateful for any guidance, thanks

[RobPearce]

The gauges all pull out through the front of the dash. Don't try to remove the bezel unless you're rebuilding the gauge itself. I assume you've removed the retaining bracket on the back, held on with two knurled nuts? They may need a bit of a shove as they'll have glued themselves into place over the years.

Removing (or even identifying) the wires may well prove easier once the gauge is dangling in front of the dash rather than inaccessibly awkward behind. I agree that those colour codes make little sense for gauges - green/purple is brake lights but blue/white is main beam headlights, which could be the repeater light? I suspect the green one may be the indicator repeater? If so, the "springiness" is probably the bulb holder. You're supposed to remove the bulb holder from the gauge; don't tug on the wire.

Again, the knobs are supposed to come off when the pins are pushed in but often don't. The stick in place and the plastic goes brittle.

[Dratno]

Thanks Rod. I have since pulled the two main gauges through the fascia, the bezels were gummed in over age. Regardless of colour, I have made a note of where each wire was connected so hopefully will go back in the right order. The two connections I could not remove are to the oil pressure lamp and the battery charging lamp.

[glang]

They must be lamps that are solidly wired so dont have any connector. Normally you just pull the complete lamp out of its holder tube in the back of the gauge but maybe in your case these are stuck in place as well?

[thescrapman]

Unless someone has been bodging badly, those 2 bulb holders are just stuck, wiggle wiggle and they will come lose

[Dratno]

Hi

my main problem is to remove the four knobs from the centre section. I know the theory of pushing in the sprung metal stud then pulling the switch knob off, but they are not shifting. I have given each of them a good spray with WD40 in that area and left to soak for a couple of days, but no luck, having been there for over 50 years. I am pushing in the studs with considerable force, it seems that a grip is needed to push in the stud and pull away at the same time. Has anyone had the same problem and found a way to overcome it? Thanks

[RobPearce]

There are those who would point out that WD40 is not a releasing agent - it's a water dispersant. However, I don't think you'll have much luck getting any releasing agent into the bits that matter because of the shape of things.

The studs shouldn't need much force. Are you saying they don't have any give at all? If you push in too hard you'll clamp the shaft against the other side of the knob, which won't help. The ones I've removed have always come without too much bother, although I do know people who've had to break the knob to free it off.