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rear tub complete wing panels


qed296

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If your current wings are only frilly below the swage line my view is that you are better off with repair sections.  They are even reasonably easy to make DIY.

Paddocks list them for £ 140 as side.  No idea what they are like.  Failing that Chic Doig seems to be good for panels.

Nick

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Herald & Vitesse rear wings are notoriously difficult to fit. It's not down to the quality of the repair panels (even though that can be an issue in itself),  it's the distortion which so many bodyshells have suffered.

The shell sags and bulges for a number of reasons - overloading of the boot, rotten boot outriggers, poor quality chassis repairs - these all contribute to the problem. The shell can drop at the back end, provided the panels are left undisturbed, this can often remain unnoticeable on a complete and assembled car. The panel line where the upper and lower wings meet will however form a downward curve where it would have originally followed a straight line. Seperate the panels here and you'll find your new panel with a straight edge fails to meet the curved original upper wing.

If at all possible, I advocate repairing the arch as the best approach. If not, keep your fingers crossed that your shell is the same shape as when it left the factory,

Cheers,
Bill.

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Quoted from qed296
Thanks Bill, unfortunately the cowboy has removed the original metal and fabricated a new one and then filled it with filler!!! It's a job in its self removing it, gone to be blasted now to see the full picture.


That's certainly a dilemma.

If you have to use new wings, try to obtain original Stanpart panels. Some reproductions get the dimensions of the swage above the arch wrong. The height from the centre of the arch to the swage is 41mm on an original wing, the repros often measure 46mm. 5mm doesn't sound like a huge difference, but it's very visible in practice.

Cheers,
Bill.

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I replaced a rear Vitesse wing with a pattern part from one of the main suppliers several years ago. It was about 1/4 inch to short in length, the pressing over the wheel arch was not as deep and defined as the original. The lower swage line where it should follow on from the door was about 1/4 inch to high. I initially tried filler to just the line and ad a bit of curve to follow the door profile. In the end I had to remove the tub again from the chassis and take it back home to repair, as the car is being put together in a lock up. Lots of work cutting and adding in new metal, complained at the time and they agreed they were poor, but thats all that was available at the time. I would look out for a Stanpart original or a good one that been cut from a tub, both surface occasionally, or repair your own. Personally I wouldn't use a repro again.

Mark  

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Rear wings on Herald/Vitesse's are notoriously difficult to fit for a number of reasons, not least of all, the reasons that Bill has outlined and also, the centre of the panel over the wheel arch is bowed outwards slightly and the reproduction panels fail to take that into consideration and are flat.  The panels are often too long which means plenty of fettling around the door shut join into the B post.  The spot welding into the B post and along the horizontal seam is hard to achieve without massive distortion and the rolled seam welding there the panel buts up to the rear light mounting panel is very hard to achieve without distortion.  Occasionally there are "complete" rear quarter panels available on eBay which comprises of the B post, both upper and lower wings and the light mounting panel already assembled.  These are easier to fit as the places which distort due to welding are far more concealed and visually the fit and final finish is more factory fresh than just replacing the lower outer panel with a pattern panel or even a Stanpart replacement.

Mark

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Well it gets worse....I paid for new rear wings on both sides but after being blasted today it's very obvious that I've been well and truly duped...One side has been done flat and filled with filler, nearly 1" thick.....The other side well, it's just filler....

Taken in early 2014 :


Taken today late 2016:


Doesn't take a genius to see that jack squat has been replaced....

Can't wait to see what the bonnet looks like.....I think we know what will be found...

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I have a whole NOS Stanpart rear wing - if Lloyd would like to borrow it for getting panels made then he's welcome to, but unfortunately it's not for sale - It's for my own Vitesse.

Are all those marks in the wings from where you've been chipping the filler out, or from before the filler was applied?

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Oh dear.  That is proper rough.  Rust and previous crash damage by the looks, with some very low quality repairs of both to add to the pain.

If the floors and understructure are reasonably rot-free then it may still be worth repairing (no small or easy job though) otherwise I'd suggest hunting down another tub.  A convertible tub with rotten floors might provide the parts yours needs or vice versa.

Nick

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When I bought my Vitesse, my rear tub was pretty much like that eBay one, and the car was on the road with an mot. There were no repair sections for where the boot floor meets the back axle tunnel back then so I had to make them up myself, but they're available now. Apart from that bit on the tonneau panel which might be a bit fiddly, that tub looks to be an easy repair given the repair sections available today.

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