Paul Garvey Posted November 4, 2012 Share Posted November 4, 2012 I've swapped a few diffs on my own before but this time I'm struggling (more than usual). I've replaced with red polybushes and for the life of me I can't get the rear lugs into the chassis slots....lots of swearing trying to push the blasted thing in while balanced on a trolly-jack and near the end two jacks. Body gave up in the end which is just as well as between holding it, pushing and worrying about the car coming off the axle stands with my effots one of us was going to loose big time. I'm thinking the polybushes may be slightly 'fatter' and a lot more 'unforgiving'.So...ideas pleeease.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan pettit Posted November 4, 2012 Share Posted November 4, 2012 i had this problem when i put a new diff in with the red bushes.fit the long pin in first across the diff then offer it up with a jack supporting it . I had to use a big hammer to rearrange the postion of the big holes on the vertical part of the diff mounting..I also used plenty of lubricant to ease the bushes into the rearranged holes(i had put the bushes on to the stalks first) . It took longer than i wanted but eventually it all clicked into place ! Good luck ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velocita Rosso Posted November 4, 2012 Share Posted November 4, 2012 The trick is to use the trolley jack to actually pump it up into its location whilst you just guide it. The pressure from the hyd jack pushes it into placeThe two slots can be widened slightly with a pry bar and the eye bolt will nip it back together againGet it into the hanger slots and eye bolt first, then jiggle the two wing bolts afterwardsThe floor has more give than the chassis eyes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Garvey Posted November 6, 2012 Author Share Posted November 6, 2012 Followed your advice wasn't as easy though and took four attempts... By the last attempt I decided trying to be gentle to look after the new chassis and diff paint wasn't going to work and let fly with a decent sized ballpein hammer and bashed the sh*t out of the hanger openings (yes I admit I was pretty steamed by then) followed by a crowbar to pry open the rear hanger slots a little more (those red polybushes are very unforgiving) and lastly lots and lots of some sort of body oil 'borrowed' from my wife all over the hanger slots, diff rear bushes...jack... tools... floor... overalls - makes a hell of a mess but car and garage smells the best it ever has and even better - it worked! I never want to replace another diff on my own again...now just have to get the oil and dirt marks off what's left in the oil bottle and sneak it back....Thanks guys - much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted November 6, 2012 Share Posted November 6, 2012 Well done.Paul_Garvey wrote:I'm thinking the polybushes may be.... a lot more 'unforgiving'.Remember thats why you fitted them!Usually the vertical faces compress shen the bolt is done up. You have to open them up to provide the required clearance whilst fitting the diff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigT-DK Posted November 6, 2012 Share Posted November 6, 2012 much easier to refit with the body tub removed ;D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimW Posted November 6, 2012 Share Posted November 6, 2012 it will drop out and back in again now you have fitted it once. I had the same problem and used a trolly jack on the prop flange to push the diff into the rear hangers. Diff is very easy to remove and replace now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dimtavies Posted November 6, 2012 Share Posted November 6, 2012 While on the subject of GT6 Diff fitting, I have been working on my bitsa rolling chassis, I have tried to fit the diff, fitted the long bolt through, but the mounting rubbers arent locating into the holes in the bracket on the diff, the cross support is tight against the chassis, as far as I know this diff came off this chassis. Does the bracket or the studs need fettling with a hammer or is this right, I was going to look under my GT6 but hoping someone here could save me having to jack the car up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velocita Rosso Posted November 6, 2012 Share Posted November 6, 2012 Paul_Garvey wrote:Followed your advice wasn't as easy though and took four attempts... By the last attempt I decided trying to be gentle to look after the new chassis and diff paint wasn't going to work and let fly with a decent sized ballpein hammer and bashed the sh*t out of the hanger openings (yes I admit I was pretty steamed by then) followed by a crowbar to pry open the rear hanger slots a little more (those red polybushes are very unforgiving) and lastly lots and lots of some sort of body oil 'borrowed' from my wife all over the hanger slots, diff rear bushes...jack... tools... floor... overalls - makes a hell of a mess but car and garage smells the best it ever has and even better - it worked! I never want to replace another diff on my own again...now just have to get the oil and dirt marks off what's left in the oil bottle and sneak it back....Thanks guys - much appreciated....and I hope you slapped good grease or copperslip onto the eye bolt/slots and nut when you slid it in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Garvey Posted November 6, 2012 Author Share Posted November 6, 2012 Yes - copper grease but I nearly forgot in the relief of the moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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