glang Posted February 21, 2019 Share Posted February 21, 2019 Hi, yes that 'bolt' is welded into vertical link but the good news is that the load from the shock isnt taken by the threaded part so hopefully the thread can be restored sufficiently to stop the nut from coming undone. If youre really concerned it might be possible to drill a small hole through the threaded part to allow a split pin to be used to positively lock a nut in place. While you have the spring off you could try to get some thick oil into it with a brush to prevent corrosion and allow each leaf to move smoothly against the next..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted February 22, 2019 Author Share Posted February 22, 2019 Great idea with the split pin ! go for that. I understand that there are different schools of thought for leaf springs. One says if you grease it up , it will attract dirt and grit and thus wear itself out. Thus it is suggested just to clean it and paint it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted February 22, 2019 Share Posted February 22, 2019 you could be right with the spring and the best solution after greasing it Ive seen is to wrap it in Denso tape. However I cant find any recommendation to grease the spring in the workshop manual and I must admit Ive never done mine..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted February 22, 2019 Author Share Posted February 22, 2019 It is not often I am right. But I will wait until it is removed and inspected before deciding which route to make. I thought, while everything is off, to replace the shock absorbers. The standard ones do not cost very much but I notice there are adjustable ones which do cost a bit. Are they really any better? Sorry, I am a bit off topic to the differential now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted February 22, 2019 Share Posted February 22, 2019 You can check the shocks while theyre off by compressing and stretching them which, if theyre good, should give quite a lot of resistance. Obviously the cheap replacements are going to be lower quality in that they offer less resistance or the resistance they have wont last very long while the expensive ones can be adjusted to suit your driving/comfort and should last longer. It depends on how you want to drive really and I personally would get a more modern car if I wanted to drive fast as the handling would be better and safer. For this reason I have put the cheapest shocks on my Vitesse and drive accordingly...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted February 25, 2019 Author Share Posted February 25, 2019 That is also my thinking. Gentle cruising along is the style so normal shocks will suffice me. Having now got the right hand wheel assembly off and on the bench, it has been thoughly cleaned, rust teated with Fertan and painted black. But the O rings for the trunnion are loose, so I need to replace these. A you.tube video, from Canada I think, shows that the new replacement parts do not fit properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted February 25, 2019 Author Share Posted February 25, 2019 That is also my thinking. Gentle cruising along is the style so normal shocks will suffice me. Having now got the right hand wheel assembly off and on the bench, it has been thoughly cleaned, rust teated with Fertan and painted black. But the O rings for the trunnion are loose, so I need to replace these. A you.tube video, from Canada I think, shows that the new replacement parts do not fit properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted February 25, 2019 Share Posted February 25, 2019 Do you mean the rubber ring that go between the two metal discs to stop dirt getting into the plastic trunnion bushes. If so they dont have to fit tight just thick enough to be squashed a little when you do up the trunnion bolt - its usually wear in the plastic bushes that dictates when you need to a change.... Another thing I recommend is not to change original parts (if there are still any on your car) unless really necessary as quite often the quality of replacement parts available now is no where near as good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted February 25, 2019 Author Share Posted February 25, 2019 Yes, these are the ones. However, the are not fitted at all - just loosely there. Presumably they were squeezed out as new grease was pumped in ( probably the first time any new grease was introduced into the trunnions since many years. Good thought about original parts. I am having a think as to what I have replaced already. Mostly cosmetic items, e.g boot handles, hinges, also door hinges but original second hand. We are in the process of removing the existing diff now. Then I can compare the fixings to the 3,63 I now have to see which flexible fixings ae needed. Hopefully the front flange arrangement on the new diff is the same as the old one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted February 25, 2019 Share Posted February 25, 2019 I dont think the grease actually goes into the trunnion - it wouldnt be a bad idea but the greasing point is just for the wheel bearings. In theory the plastic bushes dont need lubricating but being able to would certainly help reduce corrosion. I believe now however that in some trunnion kits the sleeve is made of stainless steel and rubber sealing rings arent even supplied. With this in mind, if your bushes are not worn, you could reassemble them as they are and replace everything next time.... Good luck with the diff! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted March 2, 2019 Author Share Posted March 2, 2019 I/we have struggled for perhaps 3 days to remove the last rear fixing bolt to the existing differential. The bolt head is quite thin and the 5/8 socket would always slip off. The nut on the inside had no space to allow a socket to be fitted and a spanner was too long. i thought about cutting it in half to allow it to be fitted to the nut. Even cutting it with a grinder is not possible because of the access, but..... ...in the end the open end of the spanner could just be fixed at an angle and the nut turned just a small amount. Then with some banging with a hammer it was fixed again and once more turned just a fraction. Having repeated this a few times, the fixing of the open end to the nut flat face was always very difficult and the whole process of moving the nut enough took more than an hour until a socket ratchet could be used to remove it completely. What a feeling of exaggerated success just in getting a nut and bolt off! Now the old dirty diff is off, I can renovate the whole area and make it look nearly new again before putting all the bits back. again cleaned and painted. Anybody want a dirty but noiseless 4,11 differential? I am not sure, it may have a leak though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted March 13, 2019 Author Share Posted March 13, 2019 Everything at the back end is now removed, cleaned up and painted gloss black. I decided to oil the spring and left it a few days to soak in between the leaves(?). then the Surfaces were cleaned and degreased and all spray painted gloss black. It does look quite nice. For the past couple of days, have been struggling with the Fitting of new poly bushes . There are a number of informative Videos on u-tube on how to do it. The bushes for the spring would not go completely through without a lot of pressure. Then when pushing in the steel tube inserts, they stretched. We may have to do them again.......😭 The exposed Chassis parts have been cleaned and coated with BRunox, awaiting painting. After that the bit can go back starting with the diff itself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted March 13, 2019 Share Posted March 13, 2019 Cant wait to hear your comments on driving the car when its all done but dont forget to put oil in the diff beforehand (no its not impossible to forget it!).... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted March 16, 2019 Author Share Posted March 16, 2019 It will be a little while yet before it is driveable again. But this is interesting. My 3,63 diff which originally came out of a Spitfire I suppose, seems to have Provision for the six spring Holding bolts that the Herald has. However, it seems that two of These studs have been cut or broken off. If we can get them out, then all six studs can go back in but my informations are that there were only four of These on this diff - strange! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted March 16, 2019 Share Posted March 16, 2019 Yes a bit unusual but Triumph could have used up 6 hole casings for the early 3.63 diffs before changing over to the 4 type. I take it the serial number code (FR) is correct and youve counted the exact number of turns to confirm the ratio? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted March 19, 2019 Author Share Posted March 19, 2019 Certainly the Ratio is 3,6 ish but I have not checked the code yet - am away at the Moment. When I turn the flanges there is very very slight Play, hardly noticable so I hope this is normal and ok? But I have had the time to think about getting the two broken/capped studs out. I will bolt on the thick spring plate temporary and then find a nut that fits into the hole over the stud. This can then be used as a template to drill through and of course is guaranteed to be right in the middle of the stud. Once the drill has bitten, I can then remove the plate and use left Hand drill bits to hopefully get the stud out. My ideas are often good - the application however often lacking.....😭 but if it works the diff can go back on, then the renovated spring and shafts etc and await the big test! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted March 19, 2019 Share Posted March 19, 2019 yes that amount of play is ok. In my experience these differentials are usually good as not many have done high mileages because old Triumphs werent able to travel very far before the body rusted away! I wouldnt worry too much about the capped holes as the later cars were designed to use only 4 studs with no problems. If you do drill them an extractor like these would be best to use... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted March 19, 2019 Author Share Posted March 19, 2019 Yes, earlier on in the thread I read that only having the four holes is perfectly ok. I will get the Left drills on Thursday - with that as you have pictured. Then if it works it will be ok but if not, also ok Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted March 20, 2019 Author Share Posted March 20, 2019 Got the broken studs out this afternoon- just had to drill them normally than lightly hammered a large Wood screw in the hole and both unschrewed easily. I think the studs were Aluminium and obviously put there to prevent oil escaping. Re-checked the Ratio @ ca, 3,63. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted March 21, 2019 Share Posted March 21, 2019 I know youve probably really cleaned up the replacement diff but make sure the jiggle pin vent (top, rear, right hand side) is clear. Ive just done mine in situ, which was a bit fiddly, and its really reduced the front oil seal leak. If blocked the diff can become slightly pressurised as it warms up so pushing out more oil..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted March 22, 2019 Author Share Posted March 22, 2019 Ah good, I did notice this pin already andit is free to move. But yesterday the diff would not go in 😭 I have installed the two new poly bushes in the rear "flanges" and they are slightly too big. This means that when finally bolted up that it will be a snug fit but till now, have not got that far. The Action of Lifting the diff into the approx Position, then trying to push it into the recesses has so far failed. It Needs to be levered in or (not recommended I am sure) hit with a big hammer to push it into place. So far the only result is that all my nice cleaning and paintwork is being scratched off. Will have another go this morning,perhaps trying to Lever it in from the top through the open hole where the spring Fixing bolts are accessed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted March 22, 2019 Share Posted March 22, 2019 Yes I can imagine that new bushes would make it a tight fit. No to hitting the casing but levering should be ok especially if theres plenty of grease on the bushes and mounting slots. Reckon it will need a long bar with a good lever point off the chassis to force it back into place.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bitumen Boy Posted March 22, 2019 Share Posted March 22, 2019 I'd be inclined to try a trolley jack before a lever, hopefully the new bushes aren't so oversized that the whole car will lift - or am I missing something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted March 22, 2019 Author Share Posted March 22, 2019 Despite leverage, the back end just would not go in. So we were obliged to trim the poly bushings. The diff then went in far enough to fit the bolts...hoorah! But, spoke too soon - it was hoped that the front end could then be swung up into Position with its new bushes but that proved impossible. So the bolts had to come out to be replaced temporarily with two thin screwdrivers. Then the front end cradle with bushes did fit. And that is where it is now - a bit later we will try to Lever the last few mm towards the back and fit the bolts again. About 4mm is needed, not much but a lot of force will be needed I fear..... I do not really understand that if the front is centrally in Position, that the rear end Needs so much leverage to fit. Can it be that the diffs are a different length....no, it cant be? en impossible to fit the front bushes and indeed to even locate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted March 22, 2019 Author Share Posted March 22, 2019 Quoted from Bitumen Boy- I'd be inclined to try a trolley jack before a lever, hopefully the new bushes aren't so oversized that the whole car will lift - or am I missing something? Yes that is exactly what happened. WE put the jack under the diff to push it up into Position and, just as you said , it lifted the whole car! That was when it was decided to trim the bushings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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