glang Posted March 22, 2019 Share Posted March 22, 2019 I dont think the diffs would be different sizes, well not by very much anyway, more likely is that the fixing points were never exactly correct from manufacture. These cars were made by hand not robots and my diff mountings are also slightly wrong but the original bushes allow for this error. However with new bushes and especially the more rigid poly ones there is less 'give' so its much harder to get everything in alignment..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted March 23, 2019 Author Share Posted March 23, 2019 Thanks for these informations. With the help of a 90cm Long steel pipe we levered the diff back and adjusted the height using a trolley jack. then the old bolts went back in because I made a mistake and did not order new ones. I will replace them with new ones next time. But it is in and solid. Afterwards I touched up all the scratched paintwork on the Chassis Frame (White) and the diff itself (gloss black) Now to put the spring, the new handbrake cabling and half shafts back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted March 27, 2019 Author Share Posted March 27, 2019 I have discovered, the hard way that there is a correct sequence to putting the components back in place. 🙁 I had everything attached except the lower shock Absorber but this would not go in properly. So I had to remove the spring bolt and then it did. But I could not align and get the spring bolt back in without removing the tension bar- but even then it was not possible so the lower schock Fixing had to come off again. 😭 With the right sequence it now fell into place quite easily with some help from a jack. After Connection the drive shaft to the diff, then 1, Spring bolt 2. shock absorber 3. Tension bar Need to touch up now the mess I made of the renovated painted surfaces but that will not take Long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted March 27, 2019 Share Posted March 27, 2019 The worst thing is that in 20 years when you come do all this again you wont remember it all! Well at least I cant..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted March 28, 2019 Author Share Posted March 28, 2019 I do not think I will be here in 20 years time and perhaps the Brexit debate will be over then as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted March 28, 2019 Author Share Posted March 28, 2019 I do not have to wait 20 years. I have just been touching up the paintwork rubbed off during the Installation and have noticed that one of the UJ Cups has nearly come off - obviously I did not properly install the circlip. So it has all got to come off again...and I Need to find a new circlip 😭 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted March 28, 2019 Share Posted March 28, 2019 Oh no and dont say youve thrown all the old circlips away! In 20 years there will be a new debate on whether to rejoin😫 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bitumen Boy Posted March 28, 2019 Share Posted March 28, 2019 Been there, done that... I learnt to take a small blunt punch and tap around the circlips the bu sure they're properly seated. Horrible piece of design work, really - I've often thought the Herald would have been a much better car - easier to live with, at least - if only it had a simple live axle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted March 28, 2019 Share Posted March 28, 2019 Well I suppose they did get a live axle, but only with a Standard badge on the front, and Gazelle on the back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted March 31, 2019 Author Share Posted March 31, 2019 So I thought perhaps I might be able to gently hammer the Cup back into Position ready for a new circlip without removing it from the car but although it did move in a Little, not enough. Yesterday I removed the whole shaft from the car (again! 😭) but as I know now what to do, after removing the diff flange bolts the rest came off in 10 minutes. The UJ was then able to be sqeezed up in the vice and a new circlip put in. I used the tip from Bitumen Boy and ensured the circlip was fully in place using a hammer and old screwdriver. I did all the others for good measure. Today the shaft went back in easily. The circlip I used , I "borrowed" from the driveshaft which also has a new endflange of course. The old UJs I did not yet discard and I am trying to remove a circlip from one of those without breaking it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted March 31, 2019 Share Posted March 31, 2019 At least your UJs seem to be a good fit, some of mine are rotating (the end caps have become shiny) so at some stage Ive got to take the circlips out and try to either squeeze in thicker ones or packing shims😖 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted March 31, 2019 Author Share Posted March 31, 2019 I will have to wait and see what happens when it gets on the road. Yes the UJ were very tight fit. It seems that this is a good sign then. Next step is to put in the new handbrake cabling and....I have decided to Exchange the gearbox because the old one used to make nasty noises in 2nd and third gear. The new one is waiting patiently on the bench. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted March 31, 2019 Share Posted March 31, 2019 yes I believe the circlip grooves in the UJ yokes wear and thicker circlips have to be bought to ensure the cups are held tight. And yes gearboxes in the small triumphs are a known weakness, especially with overdrive and even more so in the Vitesse and GT6! However if the oil level is kept correct and you treat it gently there should be quite a few miles of happy motoring to enjoy😎 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparky_spit Posted March 31, 2019 Share Posted March 31, 2019 Quoted from glang- At least your UJs seem to be a good fit, some of mine are rotating (the end caps have become shiny) so at some stage Ive got to take the circlips out and try to either squeeze in thicker ones or packing shims😖 If you make sure everything is clean, you can apply Loctite Bearing Fit around and under the circlip and this will prevent the cups from spinning. Also, paint a white line across the yoke, circlip and the end of the cup so that you can see at a glance if anything has moved later on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted March 31, 2019 Share Posted March 31, 2019 Sounds like a good tip. Do you know if its easy to get apart again the next time its necessary to change the UJ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted April 5, 2019 Author Share Posted April 5, 2019 Nearly there now, today the gearbox went in and, after a lot of leverage the Propshaft as well. It was really tight and the straps are bending under the pressure. It all turns quite freely though. I do hope I have not forgotton anything 🙁 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted April 5, 2019 Share Posted April 5, 2019 It sounds like you have a different design of propshaft from my Vitesse but was it under so much compression when you took it apart? It will tend to put axial load on the gearbox tail bearing which obviously isnt desirable.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPearce Posted April 5, 2019 Share Posted April 5, 2019 Quoted from glang- It sounds like you have a different design of propshaft from my Vitesse Yes. Heralds had a mixture of three types of propshaft - solid, strap and telescopic. Most of them were solid, quite a few strap, only a few telescopic. Somebody said the factory fitted them in that order depending on "problems". However, all Vitesses had the expensive telescopic type for its improved NVH. I wouldn't expect a strap type propshaft to be significantly compressed. Perhaps the engine and gearbox mounts need slackening to let it all re-settle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted April 5, 2019 Author Share Posted April 5, 2019 What is NVH please? The gearbox is anew recon unit and I have the 3,63 diff of course . I will slacken the bolts for this tomorrow and see if any movement occurs. The strap type propshaft also telescopes - I did pull it apart and clean it up and put new (LM) grease in the shaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted April 5, 2019 Share Posted April 5, 2019 NVH is 'noise, vibration and heat' and used to describe the 3 factors which car manufacturers fight to keep to a minimum. With a telescope type prop when fitted it should be in the middle of its sliding movement and so not transmit any axial force to either the gearbox or diff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparky_spit Posted April 6, 2019 Share Posted April 6, 2019 Quoted from glang- Sounds like a good tip. Do you know if its easy to get apart again the next time its necessary to change the UJ? Apologies all for thread drift, but.... Yes, the circlips will need a tap with a punch to break them free and then they will come out as usual. The cups will break free once you have moved them using a vice and spacers/sockets, or G clamp, or whatever your preferred method is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted April 8, 2019 Author Share Posted April 8, 2019 Quoted from glang- With a telescope type prop when fitted it should be in the middle of its sliding movement and so not transmit any axial force to either the gearbox or diff. The straps on mine as installed are bent over and the gearbox and diff are sitting correctly so maybe it was like that before, I did not notice. I will try to drive it a short journey to see if it settles. However, that will have to wait a Little while. I put in the new handbrake cables today and then bled the brake System. In doing so I found out I could not lock the rear wheels with the adjuster. I think the wedges are too worn out so will have to order the complete adjusting mechanism, for both sides. Usually takes a week to arrive. 🙁 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted April 8, 2019 Share Posted April 8, 2019 Im not sure you have a problem with the brake adjusters because they have a square cross section and you probably felt it, when turning, go hard as it goes over a corner and then easy as it comes on to a flat. Well when the shoes are almost up against the drum it gets almost impossible to turn the adjuster anymore (without damaging it) because of this square shape so you sometimes cant get the brake to lock 100%. This doesnt matter because you have to back off the adjuster slightly anyway to ensure the drums dont rub.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonnick Posted April 9, 2019 Author Share Posted April 9, 2019 Had another go today at the adjuster. I unbolted it, cleaned it up and replaced it. The adjuster wedge ( as it is called in the Manual) is perhaps worn whereas the adjuster tappets are not. Anyway when fully screwed in I can still turn the Brake drum quite easily. I cannot think of anything else that might be wrong. Certainly the shoes are the right way in Position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted April 9, 2019 Share Posted April 9, 2019 How do you know when the adjuster wedge is fully screwed in? Can you feel the square of the wedge going tight and loose as you do it up and are you sure it cant be tightened any more? The drum should certainly be quite difficult to turn when the adjuster is fully done up.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.thumb.jpeg.b15b81ef10abeea1c3039ae03c4a9f3a.jpeg)
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.