oldbanger Posted April 15, 2015 Share Posted April 15, 2015 Hi,The jobs have all come at once this year, I'm having to replace the clutch and just wondering if my lever is broken (the little springs which hold it onto the nob thingy)see pictureCheersJon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldbanger Posted April 15, 2015 Author Share Posted April 15, 2015 mmmm, just found the right phrase to google it - yikes !Rimmers quoting £73 for a secondhand one (no new ones)and non in uk on ebay.Does anyone have a cheap fix or suggestion ?CheersJon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted April 15, 2015 Share Posted April 15, 2015 The more common failure is the pin from the slave punches through the lever, or the "knobby thing" punches through. Is that a crack i see??And yes, bloody expensive!:-( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrendanD Posted April 15, 2015 Share Posted April 15, 2015 Try Spitfire Graveyard? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 15, 2015 Share Posted April 15, 2015 what we need is someone to design a concentric slave cylinder to suit the front of the gearbox Triumph just dont have a good well sorted thow out geometry, many other marques are just as bad, welding is not good either as these forks are hardened on the 6 pot Vit/ GT6 range Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted April 15, 2015 Share Posted April 15, 2015 Same part as Vitesse (all of them) and Dolomite 1850Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldbanger Posted April 16, 2015 Author Share Posted April 16, 2015 cheers gent,The 'crack' is just the light shining on the well-polished metal - thank god LOLI washed the gear box last night and found the two ends - they must have come off years ago - buried in a mountain of oil and muck at the bottom of the bell housing.I'm hoping that once its all back together - the arm stays in place (again) - held by the bearing and servo - but its a swine that I'll only know once its back together .I'd thought about welding (Ive a mate round the corner whose dab hand) - but then thought - what if if welding jiggers it worse.Might have to just cough up :-/cheersJon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 if the pins have a worn flat you can cut them off and weld in a shortend clevis pin if the sleeve has a worn groove , remove the anti spin pin and reposition it elswheremake sure the bearing is 19mm thick many new ones are 15mm and this reduces the arm angle and pitches the throwout pins away from the centre of the sleeve if this is so you can pack add a washer under the spherical post to move the pivot forwards a little to compensatePete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 I thought somebody was remaking just the spring bit, but that may have been my imagination. I also thought they were riveted onto the fork?Wondering how difficult it would be to get a bit of spring steel, cut and rivet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 cliftyhanger wrote: but that may have been my imagination.We talked about it last week ;DI do know of a spring steel business, they remade the return spring for my pillar drill! 8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 best to leave it as missing , it doesnt have much effect other than hold the lever which with a static slave shouldnt move much i guess you could ad a external slave return spring ( nothing very strong) to stop any rattle that may set up,Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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