Spitti Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 Hi!I have Mk I Spitfire with 10 splines 165mm clutch plate and diaphragm type of clutch cover. Problem is that cluch wont release enough. When trying to put 1 st gear it sound a little and driveshaft makes a litte movement. All parts are new except clutch cover which is about 7years /20 000km old. I can't get enough stroke to push cover plate enough. Any ideas what to do? How can I make sure that cluch cover isn't faulty?Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Cureton Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 Simople things first, is the hyraulic system in good condition and is the slave cylinder mounted correctly in the bell housing, there is some slack to move it forward a little if necassary. Have you changed something to end up with this problem (ie are the replacement parts the correct ones!). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roddymacp Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 My 1500 had a very poor clutch. Only with the pedal right on the floor would the clutch engage and disengage. Almost impossible to "creep" on a hill and the warmer the engine got, the worse it got. Perhaps I'm reading your post wrong, but it turned out that the spring in the master cylinder wasbroken and I wasn't getting full piston movement there to disengage the plates. It's worth checking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spitti Posted March 21, 2012 Author Share Posted March 21, 2012 Everything in hydraulic side is new (slave/master cylinder and pipe).If I put slave sylinder in its orginal position I couldn't get any gears on. Now it's about 5mm towars flywheel. Feeling in clutchpedal is ok, and no air in system.I was changeing new clutch plate beacause old one loose one of its springs. New plate is identically that old one was (checkked twice). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Sharp Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 I think you may have worn Tines (the teeth on the clutch cover) as this is the part that you did not change it has to be chief suspect as it will have worn in with the old clutch. Clearly you are not getting enough movement to allow the clutch to fully disengage so you should also check for free play in the bearing carrier release arm bush. If this is OK ( No Play) you may have some fatigue in the release arm these have been known to deform or wear badly around the pushrod area. This can be cured with a blob of weld ! Lastly you should check yor crankshaft for excessive end float because if you have dropped a thrust washer the Crankshaft will take up the 'Float' and the clutch will not engage. This is easy to check just look at the front pulley whilst someone pushes the clutch pedal. Normally excessive end float will result in unusual engine noises.Good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junkuser Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 How much is changed to fit this type of clutch to a "Mark 1" Spitfire? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spitti Posted March 22, 2012 Author Share Posted March 22, 2012 darrenspitty wrote:I think you may have worn Tines (the teeth on the clutch cover) as this is the part that you did not change it has to be chief suspect as it will have worn in with the old clutch. Clearly you are not getting enough movement to allow the clutch to fully disengage so you should also check for free play in the bearing carrier release arm bush. If this is OK ( No Play) you may have some fatigue in the release arm these have been known to deform or wear badly around the pushrod area. This can be cured with a blob of weld ! Lastly you should check yor crankshaft for excessive end float because if you have dropped a thrust washer the Crankshaft will take up the 'Float' and the clutch will not engage. This is easy to check just look at the front pulley whilst someone pushes the clutch pedal. Normally excessive end float will result in unusual engine noises.Good luck Clutch cover teeth? Do you mean those triangular ppiece of plates in the end (trasmission side) of cover plate?Yes, I think also that movement isn't enough. I bought new slave/master cylinder from Quiller Triumph spareparts and I was wondering if they are wrong. Slavecylinder piston seems to be slightly different. Maybe mastercylinder is different also? Outside they look like orginals. Last evening I put old slave cylinder in place and I can select all cear with some grinding sound on gear 1 and reverse. :). Some progress. Allthough slave cylinder is about 5mm towards in it's orginal position.I have checked crankshaft movement and I don't see any movement on crankshaft pulley when pushing cllutch pedal.Maybe I just bye new clutch cover?Junkuser - I think flywheel have to change. I'm not sure beacause that kind of clutch was allready in my car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebrookster Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 Is the pedal box on a MkI similar to the later models??I had a similar problem with my Spitfire a while back when I did pretty much identical work (I never replaced the clutch cover though). What I found, after some very helpful advice from here I think, was that the arm from the pedal that connects to the piston on the Master cylinder was connected by a pin. However, the hole in the arm had worn by a couple of mm, which had a pronounced effect on the biting point. I simply welded the hole up, the re-drilled it.Cheers,Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 You might need to check some parts catalogues, I think early 1147's had a coil clutch same as a 1200 Herald, not a diaphram clutch. Yours may well be the usual mish-mash of non-matching components. Ask me how I know :-/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herald948 Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 I'm with Richard. The original clutch for a "Mk1" would've been the coil spring 6.25" clutch. Is it possible that whoever converted to the diaphragm didn't change the throwout bearing and its carrier? The arm is the same between the two clutch types, but the bearing and carrier are not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nang Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 I had similar problems with my Mk4. I finished up adjusting the length of the rod on the master cylinder. The rod is screwed into the fork end and secured with a locknut. just wound the fork out a bit to take up wear.Tony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heraldcoupe Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 herald948 wrote:Is it possible that whoever converted to the diaphragm didn't change the throwout bearing and its carrier?If this was the case, there would be no disengagement whatsoever - don't ask how I found out about that......There are lots of subtle differences between original and reproduction clutch components, cumulatively they can lead to a clutch where disengagement is only just achieved as the slave piston bottoms-out against it's retaining circlip. The easiest 'fix' is to open the pinchbolt slot in the slave cylinder body, to allow the cylinder to be moved forward slightly, to increase the operating range of the piston.it should be possible to determine if this is the problem by measuring the position of the operating pin in the release arm, relative to the pinchbolt location. Compare measurements against the rest position of the slave piston to see how far down the bore it is returned when the clutch is released.Cheers,Bill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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