CharliesStag Posted August 20, 2012 Share Posted August 20, 2012 As above.At the moment the biting point on my Spitfire is laughable (it is pretty much nearly on the floor). At some junctions ( in order to get it into first) I have to turn the engine off and then engage first starting it with the clutch down (other method is to wait a minute with the clutch down to the floor and hope the lights don't change again!).Again, changing gear on the move is fun. Overdrive is certainly handy!However, attempting to bleed the clutch by the book seems nearly impossible with next to no room to move a spanner in, and bleed nipple (at the top) obstructed by the solid clutch pipe.I did consider taking off the gearbox cover, but it appears that I need to remove the dash in order to remove the centre dash support which sits on top of the gearbox.So, to cut a long story short, what tips do you have for making bleeding a Spitfire's clutch easier? If it is nearly impossible to do underneath, any tips for bleeding the clutch inside the car which does not entail taking apart pretty much the entire dash? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannyb Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 First of all check the datum pin and arms for wear. This is the bit where the peddle fixes to the slave piston rod. The smallest bit of wear will mean a lot of movement at the peddle before the clutch starts to engage.Then if you need to bleed the system take the H frame (dash support) out and remove the tunnel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannyb Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 Just remembered....check the slave is pushed forward as far as possible then tighten the securing bolt. What I did with mine was to connect a extnsion copper pipe from the slave bleed hole to the engine compartment with a bleed nipple on the end so in future it can be bled easily from under the bonnet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roddymacp Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 No need to remove the tunnel. Fold back the carpets. (Maybe a little cut behind the H frame). Carefully cut a hole in the side of the tunnel. Adjust the hole size to give sufficient room to work in. Cover the hole with a plate of aluminium fixed with self tappers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davemate Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 To get my pedal to "feel right" I had to :- Remove the slave cylinder and its mounting clamp from the bell housing.Press the clutch pedal until the the slave cylinder piston is out as far as it will go,it will hit the circlip.Now bleed again.Let the fluid go half way down in the master cylinder.Now remount the slave cylinder,as you tighten the two bolts it will "pull" the slave cylinder back against the bellhousing as it does it will force the slave cylinders piston back in which will in turn "reverse bleed" the system.Keep an eye on the master cylinder as it will be filling up as you go and you don't want it to overfill and spill over.I had replaced the piviot Pins on the release arm and the piviot pins at the master cylinder endI had also replaces the push rod on the piviot arm.Basicly everything was new,before I started the pedal felt fine.When all the work was done the pedal was "right on the floor" and as you have said the clutch was dragging.After doing the "reverse bleed " everything was spot on !Make sure as Danny has said that the slave cylinder is pushed as far into its mounting block Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willcolumbine Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 This worked well for me. Sounds like the same thing Dave is talking about!http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uj1dMdYgRK4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharliesStag Posted August 23, 2012 Author Share Posted August 23, 2012 Quite a few pointers to go on then :).After carrying out some investigation today it seemed that my datum points had quite a significant amount of wear present. There was plenty of slop present in the pedal (about a couple of inches at the pedal end). And so I went out and purchased a new fork/pushrod for the master cylinder complete with a new clevis pin (the old pin had worn down quite badly). The play in the datum point was significantly reduced resulting in a slightly better clutch but it is still dragging with the biting point still being on the floor near enough.I reckon that it is time for me to figure out how to remove the H-Frame (any tips? I have a CD player installed in my car which seems to prevent the H frame from being slid out, unless I remove more of the dash. The cheat's method of an access panel does not seem like too bad an idea now! There I shall bleed the system out (using the reverse bleed method; It worked on a Dolomite Sprint many years ago) in addition to seeing if I can push the slave cylinder any further forward in its bracket :). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Falkon Posted August 23, 2012 Share Posted August 23, 2012 . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancepar Posted August 23, 2012 Share Posted August 23, 2012 Before you do anything have you checked that the return spring is on the pedal assembly? 8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.thumb.jpeg.b15b81ef10abeea1c3039ae03c4a9f3a.jpeg)
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.