moleary Posted September 27, 2012 Share Posted September 27, 2012 Good morning all (or afternoon if you're in the UK). I've got a weird problem with a 1980 TR-7. My wife let the car sit for about 6 weeks during the height of the summer here in Florida. The weather cooled off enough to drop the top and go for a spin the other day and when she got out to the garage she couldn't get the vehicle into gear. The clutch "feels" fine, an inch of play and then reasonable resistance past that point. With the engine off we can take the car through the gears.With the engine running you can't put the vehicle into gear with the clutch depressed (or otherwise)If you start the vehicle with the engine running, the vehicle in gear, and the clutch depressed, the car will lurch around as if you were starting it without the clutch.The fluid in the master cylinder for the clutch is at the right level (it's a bit milky looking)Any ideas?Thanks!Michael O'LearyJacksonville, FL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howard Posted September 27, 2012 Share Posted September 27, 2012 Sounds like a stuck clutch. I seem to recall reading that some people have freed the clutch by jacking the back end up, starting it in gear to get the wheels turning, then with the clutch in applying the brakes. Maybe Beans has some better suggestions.FYI mine currently is parked up for much longer than 6 weeks and clutch works OK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted September 27, 2012 Share Posted September 27, 2012 A rather safer option is to find a safe area - an unused car park would be ideal - and start the car in gear by push or tow starting. Then drive it around in low gear, with the clutch pedal depressed, acclerating and slowing down until the clutch unsticks.John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moleary Posted September 27, 2012 Author Share Posted September 27, 2012 Thanks for both suggestions - I think I'll try to unstick it in reverse (up on jack stands) and clear the driveway behind me in case there is a problem.I'd like to do it on the road but I'd have to push it around my neighborhood to get it started and my wife's knees won't take that ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beans Posted September 27, 2012 Share Posted September 27, 2012 As the clutch fluid is milky that might point to air in the system.So if freeing the clutch doesn't work that is your next thing to check. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moleary Posted September 27, 2012 Author Share Posted September 27, 2012 Ok - thank you. Air in the system would lead to these issues? Is the system difficult to bleed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beans Posted September 27, 2012 Share Posted September 27, 2012 You'll first have to free the clutch.If it doesn't work properly after that renew/bleed the clutch fluid.And yes they can be a real pain to bleed.Some info on my recent experiances with th Tr7 clutch; Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stuart Wilson Posted September 28, 2012 Share Posted September 28, 2012 sorry to hijack the thread. What problems do people have with bleeding the clutch?I'm thinking of renewing the fluid in mine this weekend before I do the RBRR, any tips would be helpful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted September 28, 2012 Share Posted September 28, 2012 Hello Stuart, personally I wouldn't bother, it's not the same as the braking system where heat can cause the fluid to boil and make the brakes ineffective.Alec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beans Posted September 28, 2012 Share Posted September 28, 2012 4576 wrote: ... What problems do people have with bleeding the clutch? ... It can be very difficult to get the air out, due to the relative large hose diameter,in combination the long downward route of the hose.If renewing the fluid, remove the old fluid from the reservoir with pipette (or similar).Then fill with new fluid, and flush the system till the reservoir is almost empty.Repeat this two or three times until the fluid that comes out is clear.Make sure you don’t get air in the system by emptying the reservoir.beans wrote: ... Some info on my recent experiences with the TR7 clutch ... Clearly something wrong with the link, see if this works better ...http://tr7beans.blogspot.nl/2010/09/leaky-clutch-master.htmlhttp://tr7beans.blogspot.nl/2008/09/bleedin-clutch.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moleary Posted October 2, 2012 Author Share Posted October 2, 2012 Update: I jacked the car up and set the rear up on stands. Battery was weak and barely started the car in gear but it finally cranked. I ran it with the car in gear for about several minutes, depressing and releasing the clutch. I then pressed on the brake pedal to stop the rear tires and NOTHING happened. The tires continued to spin (car was in 1st gear), it was like there were no brakes at all.Brake fluid was full. Clutch fluid is full. Rear wheels continue to spin when in 1st gear, on stands, and brake pedal depressed. Clutch does not engage at all.Is there some common thing linking the clutch and brake pedals that would keep both of them from working?Thanks,Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junkuser Posted October 2, 2012 Share Posted October 2, 2012 1st will give maximum power to rear wheels.Use top gear to give max load on clutch and minimum load on the brakes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted October 2, 2012 Share Posted October 2, 2012 clutch and brake systems totally separate. To free the clutch with the wheels in the air, best to let the engine warm up (this warms the clutch too, should help) then run the car in 2nd or third gear. Keep the clutch pedal firmly down, but keep blipping the throttle. This is much more gentle, but may take a little while.Re rear brakes, does the handbrake work?? I suspect it is a twin master cylinder thingy, so maybe that needs attention, or rear wheel cylinders seized. I am guessing pretty humid in Florida, may be the cause of sticking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beans Posted October 2, 2012 Share Posted October 2, 2012 A thorough check of the (rear) brakes won't harm but ..TR7 comes with a pressure relief valve for the rear brakes.At a certain pressure this blocks any more pressure going to the rear brakes.Thus preventing them from locking up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moleary Posted October 2, 2012 Author Share Posted October 2, 2012 I may end up putting in climate controls in the garage after this fiasco - the humidity this summer seems to have really done me in! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junkuser Posted October 2, 2012 Share Posted October 2, 2012 I was referring to the power of the engine being applied to the clutch and rear wheels Clive.Michael said he was using 1st gear which would give maximum work for the brakes for minimum load on the clutch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moleary Posted October 3, 2012 Author Share Posted October 3, 2012 I'd like to thank everyone for their input on this problem! I made a second attempt today after work, starting the car in 5th gear as junkuser suggested and the clutch immediately disengaged! The brakes also stopped the rear wheels when it was in 5th - I didn't check to see if it stopped them in 1st.I was really excited to be able to correct the problem in my own garage - it wouldn't have been possible without your help! :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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