JumpingFrog Posted May 15, 2018 Share Posted May 15, 2018 I haven’t posted about this on here yet as this project has been a bit of a rollercoaster. Although, I'd like to say thank you for answering my random questions :) . Myself and a friend bought a 1967 Herald 1200 estate that was advertised here in August 2016. The car was in a bit of a state when we got it… Since then we’ve completely rebuilt it (mechanically at least), so it looks a little more complete now. The plan is to drive 16,000 miles to Mongolia. Our route will take us down through Europe, across Turkey and Iran, up through Central Asia and then Russia before finally Mongolia. Hopefully at this point the Herald will still be functioning enough for the final 6,000 miles back across Russia to the UK. We’re doing this as part of the 2018 Mongol Rally. A major part of the rally is raising money for charity, we’re supporting Macmillan and Cool Earth. Any donations gratefully received (everything goes to charity, the trip is self funded): https://uk.virginmoneygiving.com/Team/TriumphandTribulations Don’t suppose anyone has any advice regarding spares/modifications?l. We’ve already made a few changes but nothing drastic. Currently we’re doing shakedown to get some miles on the engine and sort out a few more minor issues (like fuel vaporisation).Cheers,David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted May 15, 2018 Share Posted May 15, 2018 Sounds great fun. see if you can find details of what John Kipping did to prep his Herald when he did the rally to or from China. Can't remember which was it was. Was quite a few years ago! lots of things broke ISTR. Roads being shocking being the main reason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted May 15, 2018 Share Posted May 15, 2018 John did the London - Capetown in a Vitesse 2L. I was lucky enough to have a long talk with him not that long afterwards. I'm sure he also did a write-up of it somewhere, though I really can't remember where now. I've already mentioned it on Davids thread on Retro-Rides, but they did have all kinds of problems including some fairly major structural ones, especially towards the rear of the car. Probably being well laden was a big factor but I think basically the shockingly bad roads beat it nearly to death. I'm sure John's car will have been very thoroughly prepared but don't know if any particular special mods were made. IIRC they did have a medium sized frontal "mishap" with it in Syria. Spares...... yes. Tempting to take nearly everything - but the weight!! Usual engine spares incl. waterpump & head gasket. Clutch (friction plate at least), wheel bearings, brake seal kits (cheap, light and compact), selection of nuts and bolts, diff quartershaft and complete driveshaft assy. (ISTR it's possible to mod the backplate so it can be fitted to either side). Gaffer tape, JB weld. Would also suggest getting one of the oil filter adaptors from Clive so you have your pick of 3/4" fitting oil filters. Tyre levers, puncture repair kit, inner tubes - practice using them...... Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted May 16, 2018 Share Posted May 16, 2018 Wrong John, sorry. My excuse is that is was 20 years ago.. :-) John Thomason, Paris Peking in 1998 I think. Vitesse 552HLR. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JumpingFrog Posted May 16, 2018 Author Share Posted May 16, 2018 Thomason and Kipping did two events I think, Paris-Peking in 1997 as well as London-Cape Town in 1998. I can't find many details though, would be interested to learn more. Is 552 HLR on display at the TSSC headquarters? Leon Guyot mentioned it to me, as the Paris Peking car.Other than that, a Herald did the Plymouth-Dakar in 2004 too, http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/somerset/3405731.stm looks like they did pretty well! I wonder if the lighter Herald engine might be an advantage?Strengthening the chassis was something we looked at, but ended up not doing due to various reasons. Weight of spares is the concern, engine spares are rather light but suspension fairly heavy. We've uprated the springs to help a bit, Vitesse at front and Courier van rear.Two spare driveshaft assemblies (both rebuilt) is the plan, as notes from Triumph's Africa proving run mention various failures. I assume the mods to the back plate are cutting another handbrake lever slot in and welding another pull-off spring bracket on? Will look into it...One thing we're working out at the moment is a sump guard, the factory offering looks pretty good as it goes under the anti-roll bar. Don't suppose anyone knows of one? 😉 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete jackson Posted May 16, 2018 Share Posted May 16, 2018 Quoted from thescrapman- Sounds great fun. ...........lots of things broke ISTR. Roads being shocking being the main reason That will be easy to test, we've got roads here like that!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted May 16, 2018 Share Posted May 16, 2018 I remember Rob and Derek doing the Plymouth - Dakar, seems like only a few years ago, not 14!!! The Paris-Peking car is at TSSC HQ I think. There was extensive write up in the Courier (and a photo of the car next to the Arc De Triomphe on the cover on one edition) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparky_spit Posted May 16, 2018 Share Posted May 16, 2018 Excellent adventure, I am in awe and slightly jealous. I wish I had the guts to do something similar when I was a bit younger. I have carried a spare made-up ambidextrous halfshaft around each 10CR I've done but not had to use it yet. On the backplate you have to englarge lengthwise the wider slot for the brake cylinder as well as making a new handbrake pivot/lever slot at the other end. Unfortunately, there is not enough material or space to make it exactly correct so, although the handbrake pivot/lever fits in okay, the handbrake will not work on that side, even though you have to connect everything up. So, not 100% temporary fix but good enough to get you out of trouble I reckon. Though not a problem for you if you are taking two spares of course. Good luck with the trip! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paudman Posted May 17, 2018 Share Posted May 17, 2018 One thing we're working out at the moment is a sump guard, the factory offering looks pretty good as it goes under the anti-roll bar. Don't suppose anyone knows of one? 😉 Yes, contact Bernard at TSSC HQ - they have my old one that I handed over at a show a few years ago, in order to see if they could manufacture new ones in lighter / stronger material. I'm not looking for it back, but if it's lying about there, they may as well give it to a good home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JumpingFrog Posted May 22, 2018 Author Share Posted May 22, 2018 Quoted from Paudman- Yes, contact Bernard at TSSC HQ - they have my old one that I handed over at a show a few years ago, in order to see if they could manufacture new ones in lighter / stronger material. I'm not looking for it back, but if it's lying about there, they may as well give it to a good home. Hi Colin,That'd be great! Have you got any contact details for Bernard? I can't find anything in the Courier for him... Quoted from sparky_spit- Excellent adventure, I am in awe and slightly jealous. I wish I had the guts to do something similar when I was a bit younger. I have carried a spare made-up ambidextrous halfshaft around each 10CR I've done but not had to use it yet. On the backplate you have to englarge lengthwise the wider slot for the brake cylinder as well as making a new handbrake pivot/lever slot at the other end. Unfortunately, there is not enough material or space to make it exactly correct so, although the handbrake pivot/lever fits in okay, the handbrake will not work on that side, even though you have to connect everything up. So, not 100% temporary fix but good enough to get you out of trouble I reckon. Though not a problem for you if you are taking two spares of course. Good luck with the trip! Thanks for the information. My original plan was to take backplates and leave the hub loose until required then attach the backplate for the side required. Depends on the chance of lightning striking twice I suppose? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparky_spit Posted May 26, 2018 Share Posted May 26, 2018 Thanks for the information. My original plan was to take backplates and leave the hub loose until required then attach the backplate for the side required. Depends on the chance of lightning striking twice I suppose? That is such a simple and effective idea. Why didn't I think of that?... especially as my hub nut is only done up finger tight anyway on the spare shaft, with the plan being to torque it up once fitted to the car. I'm sure I overthink things sometimes.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Bancroft Posted May 28, 2018 Share Posted May 28, 2018 Dave Pearson did the African trip with John Kipping and (I believe) thoroughly enjoyed himself. I am sure he would be keen to discuss, call him at Canley Classics. Useful for parts as well. A Herald estate is a logical car, probably the best option if using a Triumph. Think about changing the seats! Here is an extract from the Advice Notes that we issue for the RBRR event, whilst an endurance event, not quite a trip to Mongolia! Car Modifications Are there any improvements which can be of advantage on this event? By making the event less like hard work you WILL enjoy it more. Don’t be tempted to do some modification that you’ve always wanted to do (but haven’t quite got round to) just before the event. You will want to test things thoroughly before embarking on a 2,000 mile run. But if you have time (start EARLY, remember?) then there are some really useful things that you can consider doing in order to make the drive more enjoyable. For example: Fit better lighting; many miles will be covered at night, most on unlit twisting roads. Fit relays to your existing headlamp circuits to reduce the load on the switch and/or dipswitch. Remember: “Lucas, prince of darkness”, it’s nice to be able to see where you’re going! For those cars with H4 bulbs, consider replacing the standard ones with Osram Silver Star or similar, these offer a longer reach on main beam and better spread on dip. Fit stiffer springs and dampers; extra weight is likely to be carried and bumpy, twisting and undulating roads are being used. Don’t make it too hard though, you’ve got to sit in your car for 2,000 miles and comfort is a good thing! Fit better screen washers and wipers. Rain is very likely (especially on Saturday morning in Scotland and, of course in Wales); think about applying Rain-Ex (or similar rain repellent) at the start and during the event. Change the seats (especially the driver’s seat) for ones that are more comfortable and/or supportive, as you are going to be sat in them for 48 hours. If the car is not fitted with a passenger reclining seat, source one from another suitable later Triumph, e.g. early Spitfire/GT6 use late Spit. seats, Herald/Vitesse use Dolomite seats, etc. Add fused cigarette lighter socket(s) to power any auxiliary equipment such as satnav., mobile phone charger, cooler box etc. (These sockets are available at motor factors at reasonable prices). Consider fitting a map light that has a flexible stalk; ‘Demon Tweeks’, ‘Holden Vintage and Classic’ and ‘Don Barrow Rally Equipment’ are good suppliers. Fit it in a position that will illuminate the maps for the navigator, but will not distract the driver. Tools and Spare Parts You need to think very carefully about which spares would be useful, rather than just dead weight. Take such spares and tools as are appropriate to the event and to YOUR level of competence. More experienced mechanics may choose to take spares with them which would take longer and be more difficult to change, such as wheel bearings, water pumps, even drive shafts. But don’t take a spare clutch if you normally draw the line at changing the oil and filter. The roadside is not the place to learn the black art of motor repair. An AA membership card (or similar) can be a very valuable spare in itself, know when to quit and let someone else do the job! Recent RBRRs have been blighted with problems caused by duff dynamos, alternators and fuel pumps. Think about taking replacements, however talk to entrants using similar cars and share the load. A note for first time RBRR or long distance driving event entrants. Prior to the event It may be beneficial to pack your car fully with ALL the gear you intend to take along with your co-drivers and take the car out for a run, preferably at night . Get a feel for how it handles and and get the inside organised with your maps and storage etc. There is nothing worse than ferreting around looking for wallets, phones, cameras down the sides of seats which can be especially distracting for the driver. Make sure you have adequate means of payment with you, just in case the unexpected happens, have your escape plan worked out BEFORE you need it. Pack loose items into small clear plastic storage boxes.Supermarkets sell cheap food storage boxes which are very good. Here’s a check-list of basic spares: Breakdown/recovery scheme card First Aid kit Fire Extinguisher Tow rope Gaffa tape (Duct tape) WD40 or similar Bungee cords (luggage elastics) Cable ties, split pins Steel and/or copper wire Electrical connectors and a length or two of wire Insulation tape Imperial size nuts and bolts, including wheel nut(s) Water hoses and hose clips Petrol hose / tubing Olives for water pipes Exhaust fittings Fan belt, power steering belt if appropriate Bulbs, including “sealed beam” units if appropriate Light switch(es) – especially the combined indicator / dip switch (Stag, 2000 range, and others) and the TR light switch. Fuses Ignition spares: plugs, points, condenser, dizzy cap, leads, coil. If you’ve fitted electronic ignition, consider taking a complete set of original bits with you, so you can retrofit them if the electronics fail Alternator or dynamo Fuel Pump Engine/transmission/steering fluids Water (for cooling the PI pump, of course). If you are taking water for the cooling system top up why not take water/antifreeze mix. A brake hose clamp could isolate a wheel cylinder and avoid excessive fluid loss or bleeding. If your car has security type locking wheel nuts check the special nut/key is readily to hand. Better still remove them and fit standard nuts! Right, that’s the spares list done – now for the tools! Instead of packing your tools in a rusty metal toolbox, why not use a plastic one? These are lighter and absorb rattles better. Keep a small selection of frequent use tools such as pliers, screwdrivers, 7/16, 1/2, and 9/16 AF spanners near to hand. Overalls and rubber inspection gloves Hand wipes (Swarfega hand wipes are very good) A plastic or foam sheet to lie upon if you have to go under the car- available from camping shops. AF Spanners Assorted pliers and cutters ½ inch, 3/8 inch and ¼ inch drive socket sets Assorted screwdrivers Engineers hammer Breaker bar fitted with wheel nut sized socket Tyre pressure gauges, these are good: (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Sykes-Pickavant-Halfords-pressure-0-50lb/dp/B00I5G2FOA) Crimping tool, these offer much more positive connections than ordinary pliers if you need to make low resistance electrical connections. Insulation tape Foot pump Rubber mallet Junior hacksaw Cold chisels and drifts Feeler gauges Files Mole wrench Adjustable spanner Strong, stable screw jack – a trolley jack is a very good idea if space available-think about the weight though! Multi Meter or simple test lamp Collapsible axle stands Brake bleeding equipment Car battery powered inspection lamp or cheap magnetic LED lights Torch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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