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Timing chain whist in car


James

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I have a ton of timing scatter even though I have a 123 ignition - which means that I have a dodgy timing chain? Does this make it worth changing even though I am going to Megajolt? Does that mean the cam is fluttering about just as much?

Currently I have the radiator out and the pulley nut off - so I am thinking it can't be too much more work to get to the timing chain... question is; is it worth the effort? Will it be a complete pain in the arse whilst in the car?

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If the pulley is off and the rad is out, I would do it.

Undo all the bolts and screws holding the timing cover on, and it will take 5 minutes to replace!

From experience,

Make sure you replace the bolts and lock tabs with new ones........... I have seen original ones reused that sheared!

Whilst you are there, replace the timing cover front seal.... rubber push in lip seal.

I would also recommend, that unless the timing tensioner is totally mullered, you reuse the original. The replacement part is of inferior quality, and reusing the old one was recommended to me by Chris Witor when I changed the cam in mine.

However, I can't imagine that even a worn chain would cause timing scatter.................. unless its REALLY bad!

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Well this is what I am wondering Alan - what is causing the scatter if I have a 123. It was doing it with the dizzy before too.

I haven't got the pulley off yet - it refuses to move...

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The scatter could be from a stretched sloppy chain, wear in the crank and cam sprockets, wear in the cam to dizzy/oil pump drive as well.

If the chain wear isn't bad you could leave it, megajolt does away with the mechanical drive path and triggers of the crank pulley. As long as that doesn't wobble - goodbye scatter and compromise ignition curve.

Mark

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Always better to re-new the chain..especially on single row versions,a worn chain gives timing scatter and often causes the engine to run on..on severe cases it can easily wear through the cover as well ! but do check the distributor drive gear as well as stated- often the pin is loose especially on PI versions.Also check the condition of the gears ,the crank one is often worn and needs replacing.

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So the consensus is to replace chain and chain wheels.

Being a lazy sod - do I need to remove the water pump or anything else?

Just got to decide if it's worth the extra effort or not... I guess it won't be too bad... hope I don't screw up the timing etc

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SOMETIMES you can get away without removing the water-pump housing ..but its easier if its out the way ...if you dont move anything when the chain is removed you cant mess the timing up...also my tip is if theres no leaks from the front DONT change the oil seal without putting a new collar on...if everythings dry just re-assemble in the same order. To hold the timing chain tensioner back ty-rap it back to one of the holes in the cover ,then when the covers nearly fully home cut it and remove ...saves a lot of fiddling about.

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357 wrote:


lol!! Faith in Resto I see! is his BMW still sounding rough as ever?!?


I adjusted those valve clearances, but had to set them using a sponge on a stick.  It wasn't easy.  Following the quill shaft / big hammer incident, the sponge on a stick is the only tool I'm allowed to use when I'm anywhere near his cars.

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thescrapman wrote:
Is it not the ideal time to convert to a duplex chain??

No more stretching issues.......

:-)

Colin


If it's reasonable cost then yes - but I'd imagine the engine will go bang before that ever happens...

Lucky the cam is too long to come out or else this would turn in to a big project...

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