Spitfire1500 Posted October 3, 2011 Share Posted October 3, 2011 Dear All,I am under the impression that my Spitfire is overheating - I had very little difference between having an 82c thermostat installed and removing it. I am still getting mid-way between the penultimate mark and 'H'.Short of moving my registration plate (for perhaps a small gain) what would the cost of a re-core on my Radiator be in comparison to going for a full-size radiator for example?Might I be better off looking at an electric fan and getting rid of the standard system as well?Kind regards,David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted October 3, 2011 Share Posted October 3, 2011 Hello David, it's worth getting some flushing chemical and giving it a good flush through first.If that doesn't help and you are sure the radiator is the culprit, i.e hot at the inlet and not much cooler at the outlet or has only a couple of cool patches over it's arae then a replacement radiator should cure it. Whether re-core or recondition dpends on circumstances. When I had a local radiator repairer I would always have a recore, now he's shut shop I'd buy a reconditioned one from a Triumph specialist.An electric fan will not cure overheating, the fan doesn't do much except in very slow moving traffic and warm weather. Personally I prefer an electric over a mechanical but that's your choice.Alec Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spitfire1500 Posted October 3, 2011 Author Share Posted October 3, 2011 Many thanks for your reply Alec,I think I gave the Radiator a flush a few months back - there was a lot of orange water, but nothing more, I'm wondering if it is beneficial to go for a second flush or to leave it now and get the re-core or replacement done (possibly for a Ford or Volkswagen Radiator and fan, or a Full size Canley Classic Radiator).Is there anyone in Bedfordshire or Hertfordshire who will do a re-core?Actually, I think auto radiator services luton will do a re-core for me, I'll find out how much it is.I'm wondering if a lack of cowling is also causing problems with cooling as well.Kind regards,David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herald948 Posted October 3, 2011 Share Posted October 3, 2011 Have you flushed the engine block? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fizzy Posted October 3, 2011 Share Posted October 3, 2011 i put a thermometer probe on a multimeter, then put the probe in the hose to get a proper temperature. came out at just under the thermostat setting, cant remember what it was. but basically it wasnt running hot enough to open the thermostat. yet i get a 3/4 reading on my guage. but i dont worry about it because i got a definite temp reading. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spitfire1500 Posted October 3, 2011 Author Share Posted October 3, 2011 herald948 wrote:Have you flushed the engine block?Cheers for your reply,The engine block got a flush as well - the heater was gummed up with some funny white stuff, which was soon removed.I had Ferny's help when I did it and we flushed the top of the Radiator first, up through to the heater valve, then directed it through the engine and manifold parts as far as I am aware.Might it be worth another go with flushing agent?yamaha_fizzy wrote:i put a thermometer probe on a multimeter, then put the probe in the hose to get a proper temperature. came out at just under the thermostat setting, cant remember what it was. but basically it wasnt running hot enough to open the thermostat. yet i get a 3/4 reading on my guage. but i dont worry about it because i got a definite temp reading.I don't have a thermometer probe at present. Perhaps it's well worth giving this a go as well!Many thanks and kind regards,David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nang Posted October 3, 2011 Share Posted October 3, 2011 For what it's worth,from a New Zealand perspective,I got a full width new one from Canley's. Even with freight costs it was cheaper than getting mine recored here. Was told it was the escalating cost of copper .Have you tested the accuracy of your temp sender. Had a similar problem with my TC, replaced sender and all back to normal readings.Cheers Tony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spitfire1500 Posted October 3, 2011 Author Share Posted October 3, 2011 Many thanks for your reply Tony,That's a fair point to make there! Did you keep the standard fan or go for an electrical one with your full-width Radiator?I will be spending this weekend checking the temperature sender, as well as sorting out other bits and bobs on my Spitfire.Kind regards,David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulB Posted October 3, 2011 Share Posted October 3, 2011 I've fitted the canleys full width radiator and kept the existing fan.I've got no problems with overheating. Temp just sits half way.I think that option would be cheaper than a recore.The spits were meant to have a full width radiator but it was reduced as part of a cost cutting exercise by Triumph. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodders1 Posted October 3, 2011 Share Posted October 3, 2011 Hi Spit1500.A few of basic things to check before launching into the expense of a radiator re-core/replacement...1) Others have mentioned flushing the engine - use a proprietary engine flushing compound and follow the instructions carefully.2) is the gauge over-reading? If a previous owner has dispensed with the voltage regulator and rigged up a nice healthy +12v to the gauge that would give the sort of over-reading that you are seeing.3) have you got the radiator side-valences in place? I have seen so many Spitfires where the owners have spent £££ "curing" an overheating problem, but with no side-valences fitted! The radiator valences are there to make sure that any fresh air that does make it past the number plate actually gets channelled through the radiator instead of spilling round the sides. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spitfire1500 Posted October 4, 2011 Author Share Posted October 4, 2011 Dear Paul & Bodders,Many thanks for your replies.I do recall the story of Triumph/BL reducing the radiator size to cut costs - and to think what the base-rate cost of any metal is now!I have never engine flushed my Spitfire, I doubt it will do any harm, definitely worth a go.Regarding the reading, I replaced the voltage stabiliser as I was given one free and that's when the temperature gauge went from around half way to nearly full and when the petrol gauge went to full instead of half way when I filled up.I don't have any side valances in place at the moment; it never came with these :(I am thinking of fashioning some up from scrap metal or using some thick bits of cardboard and some cable ties as a temporary measure. I am considering removing the number plate as well.Many thanks once again and kind regards,David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drofgum Posted October 4, 2011 Share Posted October 4, 2011 David,Just to be clear in the matter: it is the valances at the front that are important to the cooling system. Those behind the radiator don't seem to make much difference. Cheers, Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodders1 Posted October 4, 2011 Share Posted October 4, 2011 1317 wrote:David,Just to be clear in the matter: it is the valances at the front that are important to the cooling system. Those behind the radiator don't seem to make much difference. Cheers, PaulPrecisely. The radiator side valences are essential to the proper functioning of the cooling system.The engine side valences help to channel air along the sides of the engine, but also play a part in keeping muck thrown up from the front wheels off the distributor and carbs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodders1 Posted October 4, 2011 Share Posted October 4, 2011 Spitfire1500 wrote:I don't have any side valances in place at the moment; it never came with these :(I am thinking of fashioning some up from scrap metal or using some thick bits of cardboard and some cable ties as a temporary measure.If you were contemplating the cost of a replacement rad, why not buy yourself a set of the proper side valences - £19.34 each from CC (other retailers also sell..... yada yada). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dicky Blighter Posted October 4, 2011 Share Posted October 4, 2011 Spitfire1500 wrote:Many thanks for your reply Alec, Is there anyone in Bedfordshire or Hertfordshire who will do a re-core? Yuphttp://www.kempstonradiators.com/ as well. YupKind regards,David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spitfire1500 Posted October 4, 2011 Author Share Posted October 4, 2011 Many thanks for your replies, Paul, bodders1 and Dicky Blighter,I found some aluminium valances going cheap on eBay, so I've purchased those :)I had some spare cardboard ones I got free, but they weren't in very good condition.Considering the cost of a full-size radiator, I'll try the valances first.Kind regards,David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BarryH Posted October 4, 2011 Share Posted October 4, 2011 You could try these people in Luton.http://www.comspecrads.co.uk/ In Portland Road Kingsway end near the ttraffic lights. Very friendly and helpful.Usual caveats about members of the family etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davemate Posted October 4, 2011 Share Posted October 4, 2011 my mate just had a rad re-cored for his rs 2000(the crappy front wheel drive one) it cost him £120 by a firm near hertford at that price i would buy new ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spitfire1500 Posted October 4, 2011 Author Share Posted October 4, 2011 Many thanks for your replies Dave & Barry,I'll see how the new valances go and if I still have cooling problems, I'll give the above-mentioned firms a call to see what the cost will be.Kind regards,David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpitNoir Posted October 5, 2011 Share Posted October 5, 2011 Spitfire1500 wrote:...Regarding the reading, I replaced the voltage stabiliser as I was given one free and that's when the temperature gauge went from around half way to nearly full and when the petrol gauge went to full instead of half way when I filled up.Hi David.Seems to me that for this reason alone it would be sound practice to, as was mentioned, verify the gauge with some other instrument. If it's an old stabiliser, it could be overcompensating and bringing an otherwise faulty fuel gauge circuit up higher, while at the same time making an otherwise accurate water temp gauge read falsely high. Was your free replacement in fact a new one? Or an old used one?Maybe that's a stretch, but an el cheapo (as they say in France) kitchen thermometer might be just the ticket to eliminate the possibility the new unit is causing some mischief.I can see how, now that your fuel level gauge seemingly reads more correctly, it would follow that your water temp gauge is now more accurate also. I just feel that since they're separate, and potentially finicky, circuits, you need to verify each one. Or better yet, verify that the output of the stabilizer is within specification? That might be the better route to take in fact.Not trying to rain on your newly accurized petrol-parade of course, but it seems to me a quick double-check with a thermometer or infrared temp gauge would be worth a try. At least then you'd know whether your concerns are truly valid, or that you can relax for the time being.Until the next issue at least...Cheers!Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spitfire1500 Posted October 5, 2011 Author Share Posted October 5, 2011 Many thanks for your reply Paul,I have a few digital thermometers in the house I can probably try out - which will verify the temperature guage of course!The voltage stabiliser was given to me was an old used one - as the person who gave it to me had wired up a Maplin Electronics resistor instead (which is an option to use if the stabiliser looks like it's faulty). I can also use a multimeter to double check the output of the stabiliser as well.Kind regards,David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob dunn Posted October 5, 2011 Share Posted October 5, 2011 are the plugs light straw , i find that it runs cool if they are. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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