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Ginetta G15 Restoration


John Bonnett

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  • 2 weeks later...

Not a great deal of progress since the last offering but things are rolling on. I'm working on a template for the fuel tank which after a lot of deliberation will be in stainless steel. Much heavier than aluminium it's true but better for a strength and safety point of view.

I spoke to Clark yesterday and he confirms that the bell housing and all the bits needed to mate the engine to the box are ready for despatch. I'm still waiting on the painter. More as it happens.

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The G15 and I have had better days. It all started with the delivery of my new toy: a digital level like the one they use on Project Binky. The good bit of news is that both rear wheels have a similar amount of negative camber at ride height.

The two bits of not such good news is that at ride height most of the damper travel is used up. The second; the chassis kick up which defines the caster angle is 4 degrees rather than the specified 6 degrees. Initially it was too much in excess of 7 degrees which did not allow the body to sit properly on the chassis. I changed it and I got it wrong. Good that I spotted it now when it can be rectified rather than finding out on the road.

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Not quite sure what to suggest about the damper travel......  Bit difficult to be sure from the pic because of the the angle it's taken from, but also looks like the wishbones are already angled quite steeply upwards to the outside - do you really have to run that low?

On the caster angle, you might want to actually try measuring it directly before altering anything as the bracketry and wishbones can also affect it.  As you probably know, on the original Triumph application it was adjustable by adding shims behind either the front or rear lower wishbone mount to angle the wishbone forward or back, thus moving the lower suspension pivot forward or back relative to the upper pivot.  I did do this exercise on my Vitesse a few years ago and found that it wasn't even side to side (although equally shimmed) and was also rather too much.    I did do a thread on it at the time, which I can't now find (may be on Sideways) but IIRC setting it to an even 4º made it very much nicer, though given that the Ginetta is very much lighter at the front you might need more.

Nick

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Quoted from Nick Jones
Not quite sure what to suggest about the damper travel......  Bit difficult to be sure from the pic because of the the angle it's taken from, but also looks like the wishbones are already angled quite steeply upwards to the outside - do you really have to run that low?

On the caster angle, you might want to actually try measuring it directly before altering anything as the bracketry and wishbones can also affect it.  As you probably know, on the original Triumph application it was adjustable by adding shims behind either the front or rear lower wishbone mount to angle the wishbone forward or back, thus moving the lower suspension pivot forward or back relative to the upper pivot.  I did do this exercise on my Vitesse a few years ago and found that it wasn't even side to side (although equally shimmed) and was also rather too much.    I did do a thread on it at the time, which I can't now find (may be on Sideways) but IIRC setting it to an even 4º made it very much nicer, though given that the Ginetta is very much lighter at the front you might need more.

Nick



Nick as ever, very many thanks for your thoughtful advice. No, the car does not need to run that low and by upping the ground clearance to 6.5 inches the damper is in the middle of its travel. So I've decided to do nothing until I see what it's like on the road.

Similar on the caster. I really don't know whether 4 degrees will be sufficient so I'm going to put the car together without shot blasting and powder coating the chassis. If once it's on the road and the caster is okay I'll take the body off which isn't a major job and have the chassis painted. If it does need changing I can do it without ruining the powder coating. So, at the moment I have to do nothing which is rather nice 😉

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Quoted from Jonny-Jimbo


But really boring for us reading it




Ah but only a temporary lull because very shortly I shall have all the bits needed to mate the engine to the box and the exciting stuff of installation will commence and we'll be off again. This is more a pause to regain the breath. I haven't mentioned the template for the fuel tank that I'm currently making or the bump steer checks planned for next week. 🙂

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  • 2 weeks later...

Wow loads of progress since I last swung by

If the dampers are too short to be usable at the ride height you want then I've read about Mini 1275 GT shocks having a min length of 7.5" which is pretty short, and GAZ and other such folk can weld different eyes onto shock bodies no problem.

Quoted from Toledo Man
Make the noise...


Thought exactly the same thing

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Quoted from BiTurbo228
Wow loads of progress since I last swung by

If the dampers are too short to be usable at the ride height you want then I've read about Mini 1275 GT shocks having a min length of 7.5" which is pretty short, and GAZ and other such folk can weld different eyes onto shock bodies no problem.



Thought exactly the same thing



Yes it's not a problem. Gaz will make whatever anybody wants but for the time being I'll leave things as they are.

I've just finished a template for the petrol tank which will be in stainless steel. The swirl pot is in the recess on the passenger side f the scuttle.

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Quoted from BiTurbo228
Wow loads of progress since I last swung by

If the dampers are too short to be usable at the ride height you want then I've read about Mini 1275 GT shocks having a min length of 7.5" which is pretty short, and GAZ and other such folk can weld different eyes onto shock bodies no problem.



Thought exactly the same thing



Yes it's not a problem. Gaz will make whatever anybody wants but for the time being I'll leave things as they are.

I've just finished a template for the petrol tank which will be in stainless steel. The swirl pot is in the recess on the passenger side f the scuttle.

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Quoted from BiTurbo228
Wow loads of progress since I last swung by

If the dampers are too short to be usable at the ride height you want then I've read about Mini 1275 GT shocks having a min length of 7.5" which is pretty short, and GAZ and other such folk can weld different eyes onto shock bodies no problem.



Thought exactly the same thing



Yes it's not a problem. Gaz will make whatever anybody wants but for the time being I'll leave things as they are.

I've just finished a template for the petrol tank which will be in stainless steel. The swirl pot is in the recess on the passenger side f the scuttle.

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Quoted from byakk0
Coming right along, John.

Question though. What's a swirl pot?



It's important that the pump isn't starved of fuel during hard cornering. So there is an enclosure that will always be full. In this case it is a chamber below the main tank. That's the theory anyway Hazen.

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Quoted from John Bonnett
I've just finished a template for the petrol tank which will be in stainless steel. The swirl pot is in the recess on the passenger side f the scuttle.


Episode 13 of Project Binky springs to mind. Make sure you don't weld a cat inside the tank when you make it in metal...

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I've just collected my rebuilt gearbox from Dave Weedon who is the Imp equivalent of our own Mike Papworth. He fitted the new cnc machined billet bell housing which is not as straightforward as it sounds. The bell housing itself is a work of art and smacks of quality. A great tribute to the chap who programmed the machine. Rather cleverly, Clark has made adaptor plates to suit each of the three engines; K100, 1100.12000 and the bell housing is common. The flywheel and clutch should arrive tomorrow. I have also received the modified BMW exhaust manifold which is another step forward.

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The final bits needed for the conversion; clutch and flywheel arrived this morning. V exciting!

I've just done a bit of metal shaping. This is the taper that goes round the Monza filler cap. I'll wait until the tank is finished before welding it on just to make sure it is central with the cap.

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