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Ginetta G15 Restoration


John Bonnett

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Hi John, another amazing project from you. I'm following with great interest. I don't know how you do it!
The fuse board looks great. Is there no end to your skills?  BTW. You probably know Carbuilder solutions, but I was half tempted to fit their 12 circuit module http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/cbs-12-circuit-wiring-module when rebuilding my GT6. In hindsight anything would have been better than the 4 fuse, 1 relay affair.
Regards,
Nigel

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Quoted from Ex XKRGeezer
Hi John, another amazing project from you. I'm following with great interest. I don't know how you do it!
The fuse board looks great. Is there no end to your skills?  BTW. You probably know Carbuilder solutions, but I was half tempted to fit their 12 circuit module http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/cbs-12-circuit-wiring-module when rebuilding my GT6. In hindsight anything would have been better than the 4 fuse, 1 relay affair.
Regards,
Nigel


Thank you Nigel. It's not a Triumph but I'm thoroughly enjoying the challenges it keeps throwing my way. Regarding CBS I have a very high regard for them; good products and competitive prices. I've just ordered a heater from them as well as switches and warning lights. The module you mention is very neat and perhaps would have been a better option for me. It's certainly very compact and easy to mount. Once I've been able to offer the heater up I'll see how much space is left for the fuses and relays. The idea is to hinge the tray on the bulkhead and clip it to the underside of the dashboard, out of the way. When access is needed unclip it and it will drop down into the footwell.

The bulk of the cables arrived today so I now have work in progress!

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Rather than use a T7 heater (which I have used before and have been happy with) I decided to get one from CBS, This might have been a mistake because it is considerably larger but more important  a lack of any decent pick up for mounting brackets. I needed to fit it to see how much room I'm left with behind the dashboard. I'm hoping I've won the battle and that it will be okay where I've put it.

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The relay and fuse distribution tray is now finished and all the circuits tested. I guess the hard work had already been done in designing the circuits for the Triumph so just copying what I'd already done has been a breeze particularly as I've been able to build it up on the bench.

I'm not sure what I'm going to do with the dashboard. It has had a lot of holes of different sizes bored in it and worst of all they are out of line with each other. That is probably going to be the next job. I have the switches and warning lights. The gauges are on order but could be a few weeks away.

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Quoted from Nick Jones
That's tidy 🙂

Is the dash fibreglass or a plastic moulding?

Nick


I think it's fibreglass Nick but the finish on the front looks like a moulding. Certainly from the back, I would have said fibreglass. I doubt my ability to fill in the holes invisibly so I'm going to cover them up with a plate and then I can mount the switches and warning lights where I want them. It sounds a bit of a naff solution but I think it may look okay. I'll leave you to judge 😉

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Quoted from John Bonnett
I'm not sure what I'm going to do with the dashboard. It has had a lot of holes of different sizes bored in it and worst of all they are out of line with each other. That is probably going to be the next job. I have the switches and warning lights. The gauges are on order but could be a few weeks away.


That's how they came from the factory John... at least I don't remember seeing one that looked massively 'productionised' whilst I was there. lots of fermented ternips in that part of Suffolk 😉

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Quoted from Jonny-Jimbo


That's how they came from the factory John... at least I don't remember seeing one that looked massively 'productionised' whilst I was there. lots of fermented ternips in that part of Suffolk 😉



Ah, that's interesting. I would have expected the dashboards to have come as blanks for the builder to cut holes to suit whatever switches and gauges he was going to fit. I'll pop some pictures up later on.

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The ones I dealt with were indeed moulded fibreglass - but where the dials fit didn't have depressions moulded in to make it easier to cut correctly, but then I think more of the cars I worked on were the factory built ones, I don't remember many kits (I'll point out now we only had something like 6 or 7 G15s through the doors...)

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Quoted from byakk0
Definitely a simpler solution. Coming right along!



I like simple Hazen. I can cope with that.

I had a pleasant surprise yesterday. The painter can slot my car in at the end of February and having it painted will give the project a terrific boost. There's quite a bit of work for me to do on the bodywork before then so I shall have to change my priorities. Fortunately, the laborious part of the wiring is now behind me and when I come back to it all that will be needed is the finishing.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've decided to make the rear parcel shelf removable for improved access to the engine but of course once the rear window is in and the roll cage fitted it won't be terribly useful. Anyway that's what I've decided to do and it's nearly done. I'm missing metal shaping so it was probably just an excuse to do some. The roll cage laid in the car is just a jig 🙂                                                                                                    

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Quoted from byakk0
I'm not familiar with the Ginetta beyond your work here. Does the rear glass open like the GT6 does? If not, would somehow converting it be an option at all? (aside from possible gained weight)



Unfortunately there is no rear hatch Hazen. It is very much like the Lotus Elan from the back. With the roll cage fitted the rear of the car is fairly inaccessible. It would be a major job to make an opening tailgate. I guess it could be done(well anything can be done) by fabricating a complete frame, hinged and in two halves one bonded to the body and the other the body adjacent to the window. Then slice through the body. To be honest unless the car really surprises me in a good way I'll probably sell it on when it's finished so changing it radically is not on the cards for me. I believe Chris was planning something similar on the T6 so I shall be interested to see how he goes about it.

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My previous post may have given the impression that I'm thoroughly disgruntled with the project and can't wait to see the back of it but that is absolutely not the case at all; I'm really enjoying every minute of it and all the challenges it continually throws up. My doubts are whether the finished car will give me what I'm looking for on the road which to be honest is probably not possible given the car's origins. Ideally I'd like a car that will leave everything for dead on twisty roads and yet be sufficiently comfortable to drive three hundred miles in a day without too much fatigue. I realise this is an awful lot to ask.

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I'm gradually ticking the jobs off which need to be done before the body goes for painting. I've now after a lot of hours of adjustment managed to get the bonnet to fit the aperture reasonably well. You may not care for the fixings but in the end, pins were the only option. Hinges would have needed a lot of reinforcement of the aluminium and the same if I added a catch. I could have used Aerocatches which are very elegant but they are heavy and expensive. So I've done what I've done. The parcel shelf is now finished but the surround needs to be glassed in.

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Going back to the bonnet for a minute. I had to make supports for it to sit on and decided to make these integral with the bonnet pins. I machined some bobbins from a hard plastic and tapped an M12 thread so that they could be screwed onto the bonnet pins. I then machined out a counter bore. Using four rubber amplifier feet I was able to turn a shoulder on them to suit the counter bores in the bobbins. These provide a 5mm rubber pad for the bonnet to sit on. I was astounded that machining the rubber was possible.

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