roger.england Posted April 18, 2017 Share Posted April 18, 2017 You'll be camping out in the workshop now then John! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Bonnett Posted April 20, 2017 Author Share Posted April 20, 2017 Quoted from roger.england You'll be camping out in the workshop now then John! Indeed I will Roger. All very exciting. Did a dry run of the components tonight and everything fits together absolutely perfectly; a refreshing change from some of the after-market stuff with which we are so familiar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BiTurbo228 Posted April 21, 2017 Share Posted April 21, 2017 Now that's a thing of beauty! I'm thoroughly jealous Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Bonnett Posted April 21, 2017 Author Share Posted April 21, 2017 Clearly the dash needs quite a bit of remedial work but having got the instruments I felt a need to fit them and see what they look like in place. It's a shame that the needle on the bike tacho doesn't match the others but it was the cheapest and simplest option to take that route and be sure it would work with the dual coil pack. The aluminium panel will be matt black to match the rest of the dash. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny-Jimbo Posted April 24, 2017 Share Posted April 24, 2017 Could you not pop the bezel and the glass off and paint the needle John? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Bonnett Posted April 24, 2017 Author Share Posted April 24, 2017 Quoted from Jonny-Jimbo Could you not pop the bezel and the glass off and paint the needle John? Not woithout risking damage. It is well crimped. It would have been easy to do it before the case went on but it wasn't something I considered. Doh! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisimp Posted June 30, 2017 Share Posted June 30, 2017 Nice to see another resto taking place! I found this post via looking at g15 pics on google so had to join to say great work, looking forward to seeing it in paint! I own a green one which I restored around 5/6 years ago. Great little cars Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Bonnett Posted June 30, 2017 Author Share Posted June 30, 2017 Quoted from chrisimp Nice to see another resto taking place! I found this post via looking at g15 pics on google so had to join to say great work, looking forward to seeing it in paint! I own a green one which I restored around 5/6 years ago. Great little cars I've been tied up with other commitments for the last month or two but next week I hope to get back on the G15 and make some progress.As far as the colour is concerned I haven't made my mind up yet except that it will be a bright colour. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny-Jimbo Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 A striking bright orange looks the dogs doodah's on G15s. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Bancroft Posted July 5, 2017 Share Posted July 5, 2017 Used to be a bloke who hillclimbed an orange G15 at Gurston, Andrew ????, it was some car.The events also featured Nic Mann and his gorgeous Morris Minor with a Rover V8 turbo, that car was something.John, your car is going to be some machine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Bonnett Posted July 5, 2017 Author Share Posted July 5, 2017 Quoted from timbancroft61 Used to be a bloke who hillclimbed an orange G15 at Gurston, Andrew ????, it was some car.The events also featured Nic Mann and his gorgeous Morris Minor with a Rover V8 turbo, that car was something.John, your car is going to be some machine. I wish I had your confidence Tim 🙂I'm back on it now, rarin to go after the holiday in France. I did say that I would put it together and try it with the current 4 degrees of caster but I've decided to sort it out now and adjust it to as near the 6 degree factory figure that I can. Unlike the Triumph, caster is set by kicking up the front longitudinal chassis tubes which to my mind is a point of weakness. So the plan is to use the workshop floor as a jig and bolt the chassis down to it level in both directions. I shall then cut the chassis tubes part the way through and jack the front up to the required angle. Bolt that down and then weld it. Distortion and spring back are the main concerns but I'm hoping the end result will be a lot closer than it is now. Photos to come as progress is made. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Bonnett Posted July 10, 2017 Author Share Posted July 10, 2017 I cannot proceed knowing that the caster angle is four degrees when it should be six. This could make all the difference between a good drive and a nightmare. So, I've spent a bit of time on it today and we're well on the way to getting it right. A couple of photos attached. Just got to weld it up now and fingers crossed nothing moves when the clamps are released. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted July 10, 2017 Share Posted July 10, 2017 As thery say on Project Binkie, "Make the noise!"John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedRooster Posted July 10, 2017 Share Posted July 10, 2017 Can't make the noise John D its 0.05 off, shocking work.RR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Bonnett Posted July 10, 2017 Author Share Posted July 10, 2017 Quoted from RedRooster Can't make the noise John its 0.05 off, shocking.RR It'll be spot on after welding 😀 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedRooster Posted July 10, 2017 Share Posted July 10, 2017 What about when the welds cool? 😉 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Bonnett Posted July 10, 2017 Author Share Posted July 10, 2017 Quoted from RedRooster What about when the welds cool? 😉 Exactly Brad, that's when it will be spot on when everything is cold and unclamped. Or is that just in my dreams? 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Bonnett Posted July 11, 2017 Author Share Posted July 11, 2017 Well not quite spot on but I can do no better and they are the same each side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Bonnett Posted July 12, 2017 Author Share Posted July 12, 2017 A bit more progress today getting the rolling chassis together. Next job is offering up the engine and making the mounts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Bonnett Posted July 13, 2017 Author Share Posted July 13, 2017 The engine/gearbox assembly is now bolted in at the gearbox end and is ready for the rear mount to be fabricated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Bonnett Posted July 16, 2017 Author Share Posted July 16, 2017 The engine mount is now made and the assembly temporarily bolted in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedRooster Posted July 16, 2017 Share Posted July 16, 2017 Good progress John, had a feeling that the gaps may end up bigger after welding, can't say why just a hunch you know how it is sometimes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Bonnett Posted July 16, 2017 Author Share Posted July 16, 2017 Quoted from RedRooster Good progress John, had a feeling that the gaps may end up bigger after welding, can't say why just a hunch you know how it is sometimes. That is the big problem Brad as we both know. Even when everything is tied firmly down during welding, the internal stresses can cause movement when unconstrained. I was lucky with the caster and ended up with pretty much what I was after. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Bonnett Posted July 18, 2017 Author Share Posted July 18, 2017 So as a change from welding, I've done some welding today. I've made a battery box. The normal position for the battery in a G15 is in the front of the body forward of the wheel arch. Apart from helping with the balance, in my opinion the advantages of having the battery in the engine bay far outweigh having it in the front. So it's going in the back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Bonnett Posted July 19, 2017 Author Share Posted July 19, 2017 I made the clamp today which finishes the battery box. I had to improvise with the clamping rods which were made from 4mm stainless steel round bar welded into the end of an M6 cap head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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