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Alex

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Everything posted by Alex

  1. timbancroft61 wrote:The set I have in the car is Moulded, almost certain it is a Newton set. I want to fit a dark red set to the car, think it will give the car a nice look inside. Dave Pearson does'nt agree, but I think it would look good. Think I'd agree with Dave ......maybe dark blue but even that I'm not really convinced about. Yours is such a nice car be a shame to mess it up. But it's your car so if you like it......don't make you right though  :P
  2. 1381 wrote: Will answered that in the first response, his old 1500 one was standard. Have heard 1kg is a good amount to take off the 1500 one, I suppose it's always better to take less off than too much! Oops missed that bit..... :X
  3. 2445 wrote: That is basically what I asked ! Andy I realise that I was attempting to get back on track and find the answer  ;D Alex
  4. Any idea what a standard flywheel weighs? How much meat can be taken off? Anybody here done it that can comment on the benefits?
  5. ajp wrote:Bit late for me  whilst distracted my heads been turned by other non-triumph stuff! and I haven't the resource just to keep a Triumph for doing the RBR- with regards to cars  I feel like a teenager discovering girls breasts for the first time- I want to try them all! Lotus Elat and TVR 350i keep slipping into my sordid mind! :'( don't go ! ;)
  6. I think Nicks right, that's why I mentioned the plugs ;-)
  7. It's got electronic ignition......I'd try new plugs as you may have soaked them in fuel...
  8. junkuser wrote:Shorter thread into head Alex. Thank you!
  9. I have gone for a double skin stainless version. I m going to change a couple of exhaust studs too,can anyone tell me should new ones be fitted with more thread into the head or pointing out.....does that make sense? One end of the stud has more thread than the other. Thanks Alex
  10. I need to replace my heat shield and wondered what people would recomend? The one currently fitted is a big alloy one that gets in the way when fitting the exhaust etc. I've seen some that almost look like a flat sheet with holes in and others that look the same but alloy. What the opinion/benefits of each? Thanks Alex
  11. I would miss out halfords for a battery and have a visit to your local motor factors. I think I paid about £30-£35
  12. I would miss out halfords for a battery and have a visit to your local motor factors. I think I paid about £30-£35
  13. BrendanD wrote:less macho please on the forum..... my wife likes the servo, and to be honest when you've been in a London traffic jam for two hours getting home on a Sunday evening, so do I......... Nothing macho about my response,I honestly don't find the brakes a challenge. My cars completed 3 round britains with different drivers and not one has ever mentioned the brakes other than the first time when we had a near miss in an emergency situation.the brakes locked up as we performed an emergency stop on the brow of a hill. All the weight was off the car and it skidded to a halt......this is a scaled down version of events,in reality it was a proper brown trouser moment. A servo would have made no difference to it. Alex
  14. Quality pads will give you a major improvement to the brakes. My car is fitted with mintex 1144 pads and is certainly not wanting in the brake department. I'm almost certain if your partner drove it for a little while they'd stop noticing. All manner of people have driven my car over the years,the only one who hates the brakes is my wife.......poor pampered darling ;D Having said that she used to use it for work years ago its just lack of practice.
  15. cliftyhanger wrote:Ahem,. I believe foot should be hard down on clutch pedal.... Another technique is to get the car up on axle stands, and run the car up through the gears carefully (start in first) then with teh clutch pedal down flick the accelerator to shock the clutch plate. A little more gentle. But needs decent supports under the car! First though, and before trying either of the above, run the engine up to temp, and wedge the clutch pedal down, and leave overnight, longer if you are patient. It may help to free it off. Then try the above. Oops Clive is correct of course.....I really should wake up before posting answers to questions ;D
  16. My wheels are black anyway ;D Brake dust is a thing of the past  ;D
  17. I have mintex 1144 and they are so much better than green stuff. Perhaps more dust but brake bite is far superior!
  18. Warm the engine up then with your foot on the brake but car in gear start it up don't touch the clutch pedal. Be careful and make sure you have some space in front  ;D
  19. You don't want it coming out of the block like mine did ;D I've locktite mine in now but seem to remember it was just a normal r/h thread...... Mine kept coming loose with the oil filter and raking everywhere.
  20. uksnatcher wrote: Will the current 5/8 male- 5/8 male original oil filter adapter unscrew from the engine block as its bloomin tight in mine and dont want to force it if it isnt supposed to come out? Gaz Gaz that definitely comes out.... Mine caused me a few issues doing just that!
  21. Any idea which oil filter you have fitted? I once fitted a halfords filter and it used to drain very quickly,the fram I use now doesn't and I get no noise on start up.
  22. Did you ave the crank reground or just replace the bearings?
  23. John how about using a classic min number plate light.......the mini light has a big gap in the middle that you could maybe graft in a reverse light and imitate your example. Although it wouldn't be exact it would certainly resemble a genuine unit..... Just an idea,as mini lights are so readily available. Alex
  24. Looks a bit like a boot handle on a modern car John.......could you adapt something similar but without the reverse light?
  25. Ok I'm ready to be shot down..... Get cylinder 1 to firing stroke(possibly the other point at which its at the top from now,comes up twice for every revolution). With the piston firing point rotor armature no1. This is your start point,work around and start car......I hope ;D
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