Dogsbody47uk
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Everything posted by Dogsbody47uk
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I'm 6' 4" and I can cope on a 14", but prefer to use a 13" wheel, and yes I have moved my steering column as far back as it will go, and yes it does give a lot more room. I also have MGF seats in my car. They are a lot more comfortable than the original Triumph seats. I use a dished wheel, not a flat one.
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John is right. Both blocks and bricks can crumble... Good solid timber is the best backup.
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Hi, Ant. Moulded fit better. Sewn not so well. Moulded carpets from Rimmer should not need underlay, sewn ones will, at extra cost, of course! I have sewn ones with underlay in my 13/60. I'm not impressed. When I replace them I will go for moulded with no underlay. Cheers, Dave.
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You will also need the sump from a vertically fitted engine.
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I have 165/80 tyres on 5J x 13 Minilite replicas on my 13/60. Had to adjust the bonnet height slightly on one side to avoid fouling in reverse on full lock. No further problems. Cheers , Dave.
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Do not remove loosened nut completely until you have jarred the wheel off the splines!. A steering wheel in the face hurts!! Don't bother asking me how I Know.
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Just had a look at my Mk2 Vitesse. If it helps, the flange on the rubber mount is fitted to the front face of the suspension turret. This is no guarantee that a GT6 is the same! Cheers, Dave.
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Just had a look at my Mk2 Vitesse. If it helps, the flange on the rubber mount is fitted to the front face of the suspension turret. This is no guarantee that a GT6 is the same! Cheers, Dave.
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I agree with junkuser.
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I have mgf seats in my 13/60 saloon. I used Encoms instructions to fit them. It works fine except that I'm 6 ft 4 inches tall. Not enough leg room, so re-instated the original mgf front brackets on to Encom's front cross piece. Result, 2 inches extra leg room. Now I fit. Spaced the front cross piece up by about 20mm, and now need to modify the rear brackets, but it's going well so far! Rear sitting on 4 inches of timber at the moment!
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Further to what Clive says, if you also loosen both sets of outer column clamps, you can, within reason, adjust the distance of the steering wheel, column assembly from the driver at the same time as solving the graunching noises! Cheers, Dave.
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Hi Andy. A small suggestion, given all the problems you are having. The photos seem to show, correct me if I'm wrong, a fuel filter between the fuel pump and the carbs. It,s better to fit the filter between the tank and the fuel pump. Saves getting a clogged up fuel pump. Cheers, Dave.
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I believe so...but... It's Triumph we're talking about.
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My manual says to the rear, but like Clive, I've seen them fitted either way round!
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Also check for seized pedal bushes..
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If the pedal won't move it's probably a seized master or slave, or both. If the car won't roll in neutral the brakes probably are seized as well. As it has been stood for 2 years the clutch plate is probably stuck to the flywheel as well. All the best,. Dave.
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Apologies. Have just read whole thread. My method not applicable in this case . Beg ,borrow , steal or even buy an impact wrench. Where are you, as I have one? Cheers , Dave.
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An impact wrench will get the nut undone, but failing that, a method I have used in the past, brutal but effective, is to put a socket with a solid lever, not ratchet, on the nut with the lever against the ground, and operate the starter . TAKE THE SPARK PLUGS OUT FIRST. The torque applied is huge and usually loosens the nut, although the bang as it lets go can be frightening. Not for the faint hearted.
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Smith's or Jaeger ? Depends, probably whether there was a z in the month when the car was assembled. Oil pressure when hot should be 40 to 60 psi at 2000 rpm.
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You could refurbish them yourself. All the bits you need are available from suppliers such as Rimmers.
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The original 4.11 diff ratio was ok for the 1147cc engine. The 13/60 engine has a lot more bhp and torque, relatively speaking. My 13/60 feels undergeared on its 4.11 and I intend to switch it for a 3.89 in the near future. Hopefully it will feel and sound less frantic. Cheers, Dave.
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Reply to "oldmetalhead"... NO, the dash light does not have a cover, it's simply a festoon bulb fitted between 2 contacts. Cheers, Dave.
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Reply to "oldmetalhead"... NO, the dash light does not have a cover, it's simply a festoon bulb fitted between 2 contacts. Cheers, Dave.
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Vehicle Wiring Products do 2 types of door switches. I used the plastic ones where you cut the rod to the desired length. They work a treat on my 13/60. They are not a push fit. you connect them then drill a hole for a self tapper. Not a problem. Cheers, Dave.
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Vehicle Wiring Products do 2 types of door switches. I used the plastic ones where you cut the rod to the desired length. They work a treat on my 13/60. They are not a push fit. you connect them then drill a hole for a self tapper. Not a problem. Cheers, Dave.