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Richard B

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Everything posted by Richard B

  1. Richard B
    All Spitfire MkIV's were swing spring.
  2. Richard B
    Same ratio, and AFAIK no difference in strength. (Willing to be proven wrong)
  3. Richard B
    Its an option  
  4. Richard B
    Diff can come off in situ leaving the subframe. Supposed to be 40 mins by the book. 3.45, slower off the mark. But you big ends will be gratefull! 😀 Whichever you use fit a new leather seal. or compromise, look for a 3.7 from a late Auto 2000  
  5. Richard B

    mk1 front wings

    Richard B replied to iggy's topic in Body

    No the price is not for a pair, I just looked. There are two wings (a pair) for £375 each.
  6. Richard B
    and GT6's
  7. Richard B
    Thanks Alec that explains it, I have an 3/8 NPT (18 tpi) tap here which I have used for diffs. I then acquired a 3/8 (19 tpi) tap and did not know what it was.
  8. Richard B
    Plenty thick there to fit a sump plug. I have done it. I prefer a 3/8" NPT x 18 (or is it 19). This is then the same as all the other Triumph plugs. That boss is there for such a fitment, presumably dropped on cost grounds as not neccesary in production use.
  9. Richard B
    Learn something new everyday! 😎
  10. Richard B
    I think its the little lever at the rear of 915633 & 915634 The earlier cars Spitfire MkI-III have a bolt that pushes a lever on the mechanism. Spitfire Graveyard may be able to supply some S/H parts
  11. Richard B
    I think its the little lever at the rear of 915633 & 915634 The earlier cars Spitfire MkI-III have a bolt that pushes a lever on the mechanism. Spitfire Graveyard may be able to supply some S/H parts
  12. Richard B
    Should just be Just the two big screws in the rest through to the door, one pin (sod to get out) in the winder mechanism. One row of spring clips all the way around the edge of the trim. Try levering the trim away from the door from the bottom first. The top row by the wood is probably tighter. As others say on a MkII the wood is held in be screws behind the trim. nb. On MkI's the wood screws are exposed and there is another pin holding the door handle.
  13. Richard B
    I think they are also similar to Land-Rover Series II light switches http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/luca.....9RM38P#ht_2126wt_721
  14. Richard B
    and a broken one costs about £150 to be recovered  
  15. Richard B
    As Ted say's with a PI spraying petrol at a 110psi an inertia switch is highly disirable. John, I had the same problem in my Spitfire, the pump was tripped out on the way to SEM and I had totally forgotten about the inertia switch  
  16. Richard B

    spare diff

    Richard B replied to iggy's topic in Drivetrain

    nb. Big car diff should only be a choice of 4.11, 3.7, 3.45.
  17. Richard B

    spare diff

    Richard B replied to iggy's topic in Drivetrain

    Should be a 3.45, but yes count the turns. Could have been swapped for a 3.70 or a 4.11 (but unlikely)
  18. Richard B
    Suppliers vary, but some do the manifold nuts deeper than the normal steel nuts. About 1/2" or 5/8" long (deep). As they are brass this; a) lessens the load on the threads (and risk of stripping) b) protects the whole stud thread from corrosion
  19. Richard B
    It isn't OE but I use brass (3/8" UNF nuts) for the exhaust manifold to head studs. Much easier to take off when installed.
  20. Richard B
    I would say that is a good price.
  21. Richard B
    If you are rebuilding a box, I would say go H/D. Yes you need either an 1850 input (and clutch friction plate) or a rebored 3-rail input shaft.
  22. Richard B
    PM sent Usually he is at Stoneleigh, and most CT driving things RBRR, 10 Countries etc,
  23. Richard B
    Have you looked at Chris's website? I recommend LD Parts for the gaiters, not OE but much longer lasting. Front Track Control Arm bushes x 2 Dragstrut bushes x 4 Steering Rack clamp bushes x 2 Spring insulator rings 2 x top, 2 x bottom Do you have a front antiroll barm if so you need some for that. Rear Trailing Arm bushes x 4 Diff mount bushes 2 x top, 2 x bottom. Spring insulator rings 2 x top, 2 x bottom The jury is still out on rear sub-frame mount bushes. Do you have lowered rear springs, if so consider camber adjusted shackles from Chris, if not already fitted. James Shackford may be able to source rear Koni's for a MkI
  24. Richard B
    Yep like the thermal mug idea, with "CT RBRR 50th Anniversary" printed on it.
  25. Richard B
    Monarch sells 1" & 2" lower progressives (front and back). I think Chris only sells one version (1" lower for saloon) and thats only for the front. On the Saloons the shackles changed when the ride height was increased (circa 1975). I think the diff nosepiece height occurred at the same time.
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