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Richard B

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Everything posted by Richard B

  1. Richard B
    It isn't OE but I use brass (3/8" UNF nuts) for the exhaust manifold to head studs. Much easier to take off when installed.
  2. Richard B
    I would say that is a good price.
  3. Richard B
    If you are rebuilding a box, I would say go H/D. Yes you need either an 1850 input (and clutch friction plate) or a rebored 3-rail input shaft.
  4. Richard B
    PM sent Usually he is at Stoneleigh, and most CT driving things RBRR, 10 Countries etc,
  5. Richard B
    Have you looked at Chris's website? I recommend LD Parts for the gaiters, not OE but much longer lasting. Front Track Control Arm bushes x 2 Dragstrut bushes x 4 Steering Rack clamp bushes x 2 Spring insulator rings 2 x top, 2 x bottom Do you have a front antiroll barm if so you need some for that. Rear Trailing Arm bushes x 4 Diff mount bushes 2 x top, 2 x bottom. Spring insulator rings 2 x top, 2 x bottom The jury is still out on rear sub-frame mount bushes. Do you have lowered rear springs, if so consider camber adjusted shackles from Chris, if not already fitted. James Shackford may be able to source rear Koni's for a MkI
  6. Richard B
    Yep like the thermal mug idea, with "CT RBRR 50th Anniversary" printed on it.
  7. Richard B
    Monarch sells 1" & 2" lower progressives (front and back). I think Chris only sells one version (1" lower for saloon) and thats only for the front. On the Saloons the shackles changed when the ride height was increased (circa 1975). I think the diff nosepiece height occurred at the same time.
  8. Richard B
    Monarch sell progressive springs (front and back) for Stag. I fitted an 1" lower pair to the rear of the Stag, might go 2" lower later on. I like Koni's, but they're getting a bit hard to find. LD Parts sells Spax front and back, and also sells a strut gaiter that does not perish after 6 months!
  9. Richard B

    mk2 Carb Pi

    Richard B replied to iggy's topic in Engine

    I prefer the cast aluminium grill for the heater intake, the pressed one always looks cheap and nasty to me. Cost engineers...
  10. Richard B

    mk2 Carb Pi

    Richard B replied to iggy's topic in Engine

    Yes MG is MkII PI ME is MkII 2000. PI cues are, black vinyl on rear pillers (Saloon) with PI badges, black front grill with 2500 Injection badge (not bare aluminium grill) black gauge surrounds, Black plastic trin on rear light panel surrounding number plate, 2500 centre badge on steering wheel, clock on dash in middle by air vent, separate fuel, temp, voltage gauges, commission number should also start MG. This is for pre face-lift PI's (1970-1974) Should be an inertia switch in the engine bay (gray plastic tube on bulkhead), also air resevoir for brake servo (big black cannister by radiator), two pipes from boot to engine bay (supply and return). Even if carbs are fitted, then if its a real PI there should be evidence of the above.
  11. Richard B

    Under bonnet smoke

    Richard B replied to Steve P's topic in Body

    You can run jump leads parallel to the earth or battery leads to see if they are at fault. Is the engine stiff to turn? Take the starter off the engine and see if it spins over ok? You can do without the starter solenoid as the Hi-Torque has its own one. You just need to run the thin White/Red starter wire down to the starter from where it terminates at the solenoid. Quite often the Hi-Torques fail due to erroded tags in solenoid. (but that causes a click and no cranking, rather than smoke, heating and burning).
  12. Richard B
    Yes you can use a three legged puller, however the flanges will no longer be flat and you will have to buy new ones. Cheaper to get the correct tool. The taper on the halfshaft/flange join is incredibly strong and the flanges are vulnerable when a 3 legged puller is used. Whereabouts are you? There maybe someone near you with access to one.
  13. Richard B
    Why did'nt they make the switch(s) check that the manual gearstick was in neutral? 🤔 Less wear on the engine then...
  14. Richard B
    Why did'nt they make the switch(s) check that the manual gearstick was in neutral? 🤔 Less wear on the engine then...
  15. Richard B
    Depends what you want? As someone who has repeatedly broken various transmission components I have some experience   If you want revvy stick to 2 litre, if you want a high speed GT fit a 2500 on carbs with a 3.27. If you want to keep buying stronger transmissions in a pursuit of reliabilty, fit a 2.5PI.
  16. Richard B
    Supply & demand? Probably more Stags getting front brake overhauls than MkII 2000/2.5s.
  17. Richard B
    I'll have to check, but I should have a pair of dead calipers for reconditioning. Either that or try "The Scrapman" or Andy Harrison
  18. Richard B
    Probably be ok, but I would wonder whether you want the extra stopping power of the Stag. Personally I would just go for the MkII system, although I know the discs are dearer. I wonder whether Stag discs could be reduced to the saloon diameter in a lathe (easily?), as I believe the diameter is the only difference between the two models. Do you have 14"(+) wheels as the Stag calipers require this.
  19. Richard B
  20. Richard B
    How large is the hole? Maybe it can be helicoiled? I broke a bolt once in a flywheel. It had to be EMD removed (Spark eroded) after I snapped a stud extractor in it.  
  21. Richard B
    Don't you want to compare the 4-pot caliper & disc to the (heavier) GT6/Vitesse caliper & disc?
  22. Richard B
    I think my daughter finally got hers (Dolomite 1300 1976) from Fitchetts; after many, many failed attempts from suppliers. The door trim is a large hole, small clip; when compared to the usual option.
  23. Richard B
    I think my daughter finally got hers (Dolomite 1300 1976) from Fitchetts; after many, many failed attempts from suppliers. The door trim is a large hole, small clip; when compared to the usual option.
  24. Richard B
    I wouldn't, the OE filter lets the oil drain out when left standing for a time. Then when the engine is started, the pump has to refill the filter before oil is pumped around the engine. That ends up with the 'death rattle' on startup as the bearings run dry   Used to be the filter fitted to Ford Xflow engines (1300/1600 Escort etc) worked with the adapter in a GT6. A bit small in capacity compared to one you can fit to big saloons. I did think about a remote filter for my PI Spitfire, but just went for frequent filter changes (3000 miles)
  25. Richard B
    That would be my suspicion. Do as Raider say's, top up the fluid and see if it is leaking, check the 4 wheel arches to see if a hose/pipe was broken whilst tying the vehicle down during recovery.
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