Richard B
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Everything posted by Richard B
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Mine are still going fine.
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pm sent
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Ask Chris Witor or James Shackford? Tried some of the TR racing people? If it is available for a racing TR, be prepared to sell a kidney...
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Yes but, you have to drill the head as well. I think so long as you use the hardened nuts, (not the 8.8 common or garden ones) your ok. Of course if you are tuning, hot cam, flowed head etc then you may well want more than 46lb/ft on the head nuts.
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Thats where I got mine. 😎
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Thats where I got mine. 😎
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The shuttle was a flawed design. If it had not been required for it to have the capability to do a right angle turn during descent (so that it could get to Edwards Air base for none NASA missions); then the Delta wings would not have been required, the descent time would have been halfed from 11 minutes to 5 minutes, then the wings would have not gotton so hot, and most likely the Columbia and Challenger losses would not have occured. An amazing vehicle, but flawed. I used exhaust wrap on my 6-3-1 as the PI throttle bodies were getting hot and seizing the brass spindles. I am considering ceramic plating on the manifold when the engine is re-installed.
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http://www.sykes-pickavant.com/downloads/braking%20-%20draft%20-%2019-12.pdf My kit is the "‘270’ Series Brake Pipe Flaring Tool" SAE is the imperial flares, DIN is the metric flares. Well thats what it says... In fact reading further SAE & DIN are the same for double flares, the difference is the profile of the single flares.
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CT Autosolo @ Gaydon: Sunday May 8th
Richard B replied to Tim Bancroft's topic in Comps & Motorsport
I recall watching a certain Dolomite Sprint slow'ish times, but incredibly elegant and entertaining to watch. -
To me the fact that it required a richer needle implies that it is flowing more air and hopefully producing a bit more power. Bear in mind a Spitfire MkII is only 67bhp standard. From Wikipedia
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I'm suprised that its steel, but that said if it looks the same and is already fitted to the casing, I'd say don't worry.
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If its a UK TR6 diff then it should be a 3.45, which is taller than a Stag 3.70 This is popular for anyone with an OE auto Stag, as it makes motorway cruising more relaxed. What backplate is fitted? The Stag has the same body mount points as the MkI Saloon and all Estates. But the Stag backplate will not align with all the bolt holes on the casing and you need a Saloon one. If you take the backplate off, you can count the teeth. Alternativley there is the "count the number of turns" method.
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Nick, its because the 1300 Dolomite had the 1300 flywheel, but was fitted with the single rail gearbox which has 20 splines on the input shaft. Presumably BL had finished production in 1975/76 of the three rail gearbox.
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I would buy braided from Think Automotive in Isleworth (thats where my MkI PI hoses came from). But you would have to post your existing hoses to them, for them to copy or take a trip there (my preferred option) and they can usually make the hoses while you wait. They can also provide stainless steel ends. http://www.thinkauto.com/ nb.They will know the specification of any hose they supply.
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I would go for Super-Unleaded. Triumphs were designed for 4 or 5 Star petrol. Cheapo unleaded is the equivilent of 2 Star. However, are you sure it is not an ignition problem? I have have coils and condensers misbehave when the engine is hot. I've also had the gently on the throttle works, foot down stalls and it was a small wire in the distributor breaking down. Putting your foot down means more petrol and air going, requiring a stronger spark to bridge the gap of the spark plug.
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Wont fit a MkI rear end, Datsun driveshafts are too long. Chris Witor can have the machining done if anyone wants. Mark sold a pair of stripped Datsun driveshafts on our stand for £60 at Stoneleigh.
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Mark Bland had the unpleasant experience of having the quill shaft bearing fail whilst driving
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Drifting the seal into place is not a problem, levering the old one out is a PITA. I usually use a hammer, screwdriver and a chisel. The outer steel casing of the seal is tight in the diff.
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Jon, the seal is in the diff where it meets the nose piece. 137346 Separate the diff from the nose piece by the 4 bolts to access the seal (BJ606111) Personally I prefer to drop the whole rear end as a unit and then dismantle on the ground. You can take the diff off separately but you then need to take the nose-piece off afterwards to change the bearing. Carefull of the springs if you taking the dampers off the trailing arms, as the dampers keep the springs under tension. The bearing is in the nose piece and is greased (sealed for life) 134466. If its knocking I suspect the bearing is shot. (Pictures courtesy of Standard Triumph & Rimmers)
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Jon the bearing is in the nose piece, only takes 20 mins to change the bearing. (circlip out, drift out drift in, circlip in) The seal is more of a pain to change, I find you have to beat it and lever it out. Once you get the diff & nose piece off the car, allow 1-1/2 hours to swap the two parts. Of course, if you have a lot of backlash, you might want to speak to Marcus about an exchange diff...
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I have always used Chris Witor for these, he sells the OE leather pinion seals. Probably has washed the oil out of the bearing.
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and dampen transmission vibration? 🤔
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The difference between the "Oil Cooler" version and the "Standard" version is not just the drilling and tapping of the takeoffs. You also have to blank off an existing oilway. Much better to get a correct one to start with. Have a look at the Think Automotive site (purveyor of MoCol etc) http://www.thinkauto.com/ http://www.thinkauto.com/acatalog/Catalogue_Request.html
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Same as the Stag, although the TR7 has gaskets.
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I was told years ago of a Stag with an LT77 5 speed. The Stag manual box is the same casting as the saloon one. Just a longer input shaft, so should be do-able.